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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
I am currently installing isr test pipes on my 3.8. I got one installed and started working on the passenger side. I stripped one of the bolts and could not get it off. I decided to try to grind it off and that did not work to well either. I’m considering bringing to a shop to get them to fix it for me. My question is, is it bad for me to drive my car with one test pipe and one cat for the time being?
 

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No. It shouldn’t cause any issues.
 

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Great thank you. Do you have any ideas on how to get the bolt off?
The cats on my BK2 had studs, not bolts. I had to spread the exhaust to get them off. Then I needed bolts for the test pipes.

If a nut is stuck on a stud, voluminous amounts of PB Blaster can work, as can heat. If it’s stripped, cutting is about the only option.
 

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They are studs not bolts. My test pipes came with new bolts and nuts. I will try using a torch to heat up the nuts and see if that works for the other three and just cut the stripped one. I have had them soaking in pb blaster for awhile now
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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Better to heat the stud end and see if youcan take it out in one piece. It's stainless on stainless and can easily strip.
 

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Great thank you. Do you have any ideas on how to get the bolt off?
H ow did it "strip"? did head break off ? get a muffler shop to tack a bigger bolt to it and remove. Did the threads strip in hole ? if so, can you get to it to drill & use an easy out. can you give more info on "strip" maybe i can help.
 

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The nut itself stripped so the socket just slips off. No exhaust shop will he’ll me because they aren’t allowed to take catalytic converters off.
 

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The nut itself stripped so the socket just slips off. No exhaust shop will he’ll me because they aren’t allowed to take catalytic converters off.
Had a similar issue when I was installing my axle-back exhaust. Get you a sawzaw, put the blade between the flanges and cut the stud. Make sure you use a metal cutting blade with carbide tips or you will just go through a ton of blades. Once you have done that, heat up the remaining piece of the stud still in the flange and hammer it out.
 

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Had a similar issue when I was installing my axle-back exhaust. Get you a sawzaw, put the blade between the flanges and cut the stud. Make sure you use a metal cutting blade with carbide tips or you will just go through a ton of blades. Once you have done that, heat up the remaining piece of the stud still in the flange and hammer it out.
 

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So you are saying the nut "rounded" off & you can't get anything on it to turn it ? Can you get at it w/ big vice grips ? Can you split the nut w/ a cold chisel ? Do you have a torch OR map gas like from home depot ? or what that jrdenny says will work.
 

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So you are saying the nut "rounded" off & you can't get anything on it to turn it ? Can you get at it w/ big vice grips ? Can you split the nut w/ a cold chisel ? Do you have a torch OR map gas like from home depot ? or what that jrdenny says will work.
also, remember to use the correct antiseize (is it stainless/ inconel?) on all the threaded fasteners. No one says much about using anti-seize , but its really a good thing.That and a harbor freight click torque wrench. If or when you disassemble you will see the difference.
 
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