Hyundai Genesis Forum banner
1 - 20 of 48 Posts

·
Prototype User Title v0.9
Joined
·
164 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm going to throw the free and low buck mods on my car from Titan's list. As part of that, I want to install the test pipes. My brain says "get H pipes", but I've also seen posts here that say the H pipes are not the way to go. What is the current skinny on this?

Also, is anyone making an X pipe? I know Magnaflow has that as part of their system. But what about a direct bolt-in for the stock exhaust? Or are the pipes too far apart for a practical X?
 

·
shorttrack
Joined
·
1,693 Posts
X pipe,Summit racing.Not the stamp steel ones.Make more power and noise .
 

·
shorttrack
Joined
·
1,693 Posts

·
shorttrack
Joined
·
1,693 Posts
Wanted to keep my exhaust all stainless steel because I use water/meth while using nitrous .Instead of using test pipes (drone and too damn loud) I used vibrant resonators that I welded flanges in the same length as secondary cats and flange face bolt pattern also the same as cats (direct bolt in place) .Free flow design without the loudness .
 

·
Prototype User Title v0.9
Joined
·
164 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wanted to keep my exhaust all stainless steel because I use water/meth while using nitrous .Instead of using test pipes (drone and too damn loud) I used vibrant resonators that I welded flanges in the same length as secondary cats and flange face bolt pattern also the same as cats (direct bolt in place) .Free flow design without the loudness .

If you have any undercar pics of that setup please post them. How did you choose your crossover point? Did you use a marking crayon, laser thermometer, or?

I have a hookup with Aero, so I'll most likely use these:

TEC-exhaust TR25.1 t304 stainless resonator, glass pack, 10.5"" overall length - Resonators
 

·
shorttrack
Joined
·
1,693 Posts
Had pic's posted and 3rd party host took them down .I only send by phone direct with members that PM me with their tele number.It is easier that way .
 

·
shorttrack
Joined
·
1,693 Posts
X pipe point was placed in the only location available behind the Vibrant resonators /in front of the diff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,031 Posts
I wonder what happens when you have both, h pipe and x pipe.
I do, only because h pipe in place of secondary cats deals better with rasp. Folowed by magnaflow exhaust that had x pipe

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
486 Posts
I have H pipe and resonator with full ARK exhaust (no cats). I used to drag race (not my gencoupe) and a H pipe was beneficial for output. I care more about the gain, not so much the noise.
 

·
3point8 Performance
Joined
·
2,628 Posts
Didn't read all of the responses, but I'll just chime in with my experience.

1) Test pipes and H-pipe are both great options for replacing the stock cats and will get you great results!
2) Sound difference between test pipes and H pipe is NOT noticeable when using the Ark GRiP V2 CBE
3) The Ark H-Pipe and the Ark GRiP CBE do not fit well together at all!

Here is a photo I took of my trying to get the h pipe installed. Sure, you can install it as is, but it's tight to get the bolts in AND the openings don't line up, so you have a big overlap which DOES impede flow and will mostly negate any gains you would have gotten otherwise. I ratchet strapped the CBE to get them inline with the h pipe, then installed the bolts and torqued them down.



4) I have an exhaust leak with the h pipe. Because of poor fitment (whatever the reason may be) the OEM gaskets do not fill the gap on one end of each pipe so on cold start up you can hear the leak. Once warm, it goes away mostly. This could be remedied by using thicker aftermarket gaskets, but after having a set get blown out after only 3 months, I am not in a rush to redo the h pipe.

5) After switching to the h pipe, I do notice a bit more pull down low and mid-range. Butt dyno only, and I'll be going back to a real dyno again soon, but the tires now spin super easy on a low roll where as before they would grip unless I really ripped on it. So that's good.

Test pipes can be had for $100 used and $140 shipped from depot racing. The H pipe is a bit more expensive, comes with more hassle and is advertised by Ark to NOT work with other cat-back systems. If I were to do it again, I'd get a set of test pipes, get them installed and then have someone weld in a cross over.

Either way you'll be happy with the final result, but the journey is what differs.

Edit: I forgot the drone. With the test pipes, I had a massive drone on cold start while in my garage. So much that it would hurt my head. Just loud af! The H-pipe fixed that, but now, when hot and sitting idle, like at a stop light, I have a pulsing drone which isn't as annoying as the test pipes, but makes me look around like, "wtf is that"? It sounds like someone is bumping their stereo, but it's not, it's the H pipe. Driving is fine. I never had any drone while driving with either setup.
 

·
Genesis OG
Joined
·
2,624 Posts
My first question would be what kind of exhaust is this going with?? Custom exhaust?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
486 Posts
I had no problem with fitment on my initial setup which was ARK headers, ARK GRIP all the way back, their H pipe and a resonator...no cats at all.

Now I have a turbokits turbo and their headers with the ARK exhaust customized.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,031 Posts
For H pipe to fit, it needs to be installed on exhaust, transission cut and welded in flex bellow.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 

·
Prototype User Title v0.9
Joined
·
164 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
My first question would be what kind of exhaust is this going with?? Custom exhaust?
No, this is going on the stock exhaust.


I appreciate the responses, guys, but I think some are overthinking this. I doubt I'll ever do a catback on this machine, because personally I like the the stock exhaust tone. When I eliminate the cabin sound connector I may rethink that, but for now its fine.

I'd like to eliminate as much of the back pressure as I can, so I'm looking at doing an H pipe on the factory exhaust. I see they're under $200 if you can find them, but I recall reading a thread here - and of course I can't find it - where someone mentioned in passing that the H pipe was not the way to go for best results. Meaning, the power gains weren't there compared to straight test pipes. I personally can't see that, because an H always gives a bank to bank pulse benefit and should improve low end torque on a good OEM street motor, which we have in the BK2.

As I mentioned in my first post, I'm going to work my way through Titan's list and knock out all the free/low buck mods. The exhaust is part of that. At the end, I'll have it tuned, if one of our two illustrious tuners make their way to my state.
 

·
shorttrack
Joined
·
1,693 Posts
What????????????????? The OEM muffler is a flow robber .If keeping in place you are wasting $$$$$$$$$ installing test pipes and or H/X pipe.Your cash and common sense , blow it away anyway you can, I mean want .
 

·
shorttrack
Joined
·
1,693 Posts
Your OEM exhaust system already joins the 2 banks into 1 ,why would you need a X or H pipe anyway when it will be joined back into 1 pipe before the main OEM junk muffler.You need to get a basic understanding of exhaust systems range of function.
 
  • Like
Reactions: titan2782

·
Prototype User Title v0.9
Joined
·
164 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Your OEM exhaust system already joins the 2 banks into 1 ,why would you need a X or H pipe anyway when it will be joined back into 1 pipe before the main OEM junk muffler.You need to get a basic understanding of exhaust systems range of function.
1). I didn't know that it was joined. I have yet to crawl under the car for any reason since I got it. Its been parked in my garage since I bought it and I put about 70 miles a month on it. The only undercar pic I saw so far was Strange's shot from when he mocked up his Spintech experiment, and that had dual pipes. I didn't even notice it had twin straight-throughs on it until now, because I was looking at the pipes themselves:



2). Go read my destruction of the backpressure myth . I know more than the average potato about exhaust.

My question stems from that thread I mention, where someone said the H pipes didn't work as well as the separates. That flies in the face of everything I know, but these cars don't seem to react well to the rules, evidenced by the people who have reported losses when they went to long tube headers. As long as you balance the intake side and retune, you should see gains. People have reported losses here.

As far as the back box - I always start at the front of the car and work back when it comes to exhaust. Headers and cat delete (or cat reduction, either by dropping one pair of cats out of two, or going to low cpi cats) is where the significant gains are to be found in the exhaust system. The last thing I think about is the muffler. On performance cars, they generally flow pretty well from the factory, and all those cats and manifold deficiencies up front rob a major piece of the tonal info that the stock mufflers could use to make better sound, and if you do change out the muffler, having the headpipe work done already means your new box has more to work with as well.
Perhaps I'm biased from all the years of watching people swap out mufflers on new cars and thinking they're gathering major power, but just ending up spending money on noise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
486 Posts
Shorttrack is 100% correct. If keeping all exhaust stock, why are you bothering to add x,h and/or test pipes?

If money is an issue, you dont need to get ARK but go with a quality aftermarket exhaust (including muffler), whether it be cat back or total removing cats.

Upgrading and improving (opening up) the intake and exhaust are the initial two best mods to make.
 
1 - 20 of 48 Posts
Top