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Discussion Starter #21
You "guy" is trying to put a fast one on you, if you paid for ngk/denso plug price.
When engineeres design the combustion chamber they practically design it around which spark plugs are going to be used.

The chain jumping timing, may be unrelated, but your "guy" might have had too much fun "testing" his work.

On the bright side. If power and engine operation seems fine, then you might have gotten lucky, and just need to replace the chain (not needing a head rebuild). Replacing the chain is not hard, it's getting to the chain to do the work, that's a PITA.
So are you saying it’s likely that the spark plugs are more responsible for the ticking? Yeah I found a really cheap bk1 timing set on rockauto ~$115. I’ll have to DIY it.

what do you mean by fine? Bc the wayi found out was at a mcDonalds drivethru when the engine started vibrating and my idle was extremely rough, as if the engine was working super hard. As soon as I pulled up to check under the hood, the CEL came on.I’m buying a scanner to see what the code is. But it’s operational, I was just too scared to drive it further or hard.
 

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So are you saying it’s likely that the spark plugs are more responsible for the ticking? Yeah I found a really cheap bk1 timing set on rockauto ~$115. I’ll have to DIY it.

what do you mean by fine? Bc the wayi found out was at a mcDonalds drivethru when the engine started vibrating and my idle was extremely rough, as if the engine was working super hard. As soon as I pulled up to check under the hood, the CEL came on.I’m buying a scanner to see what the code is. But it’s operational, I was just too scared to drive it further or hard.
This wasn't in any of the previous posts.

From that discription, it sounds like you may need to have the head rebuilt...
At the very least take the head off to see if any of the valves are bent
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
This wasn't in any of the previous posts.

From that discription, it sounds like you may need to have the head rebuilt...
At the very least take the head off to see if any of the valves are bent
Oh god. Really? What part of that implies the head needs to be rebuilt? That’s depressing. So my motors is actually screwed? I planned on doing a compression test, that was the advice given to me

it wasn’t in any of my previous posts bc it literally just happened

was it the spark plugs? I heard faulty plugs r responsible for misfire? Or the way we installed it? Idk we took em out to open the cover and put it back in. Or the chain jumping /:
It still runs
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Sorry I sound like an idiot asking so many questions. I’m doing my research first and trying to understand everything first before asking u further. I’ll gather as much info as I can myself before. Thanks again for your help I really appreciate it.

I’m seriously freaking out hoping myengine is savable
 

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Sorry I sound like an idiot asking so many questions. I’m doing my research first and trying to understand everything first before asking u further. I’ll gather as much info as I can myself before. Thanks again for your help I really appreciate it.

I’m seriously freaking out hoping myengine is savable
Remove cams, put the cam towers and bolts back on, after removing cams.
label and remove the valve buckets (so you or the person rebuilding now's where they went originally)
remove head

inspect that all the valves are closing (not staying open, since the cams are removed)
Look in the engine and inspect the piston faces for damage.

If the valves are bent, then the following with have to be replaced:
valves
valve guilds
valve seats
valve seals
valve buckets (because the buckets are where you adjust cam clearances)

Put the buckets and cams back in and take it to a performance shop and just tell them you want the head rebuilt.



This is going off of the previous comments about timing...
Just to be thorough... did you check if there is oil in the engine?
if the dip stick isn't reading any, then it's likely that you spin a bearing, getting piston slap, or any of the other things that happens when running a engine with no oil.
If that's the case, it would be easier to get a new/used engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Remove cams, put the cam towers and bolts back on, after removing cams.
label and remove the valve buckets (so you or the person rebuilding now's where they went originally)
remove head

inspect that all the valves are closing (not staying open, since the cams are removed)
Look in the engine and inspect the piston faces for damage.

If the valves are bent, then the following with have to be replaced:
valves
valve guilds
valve seats
valve seals
valve buckets (because the buckets are where you adjust cam clearances)

Put the buckets and cams back in and take it to a performance shop and just tell them you want the head rebuilt.



This is going off of the previous comments about timing...
Just to be thorough... did you check if there is oil in the engine?
if the dip stick isn't reading any, then it's likely that you spin a bearing, getting piston slap, or any of the other things that happens when running a engine with no oil.
If that's the case, it would be easier to get a new/used engine.
I have oil. ok so best case scenario my valves didnt bend and just the timing chain should be replaced before further damage, but most likely scenario is i have to get the head rebuilt. Say i supply all the parts (im guessing i cant rebuild the head myself without a shop?) then how much would that typically cost?


also, i am currently looking at the parts u suggested on rockauto and could not find replacements for valve seats, guilds, and buckets if you could point me towards those
 

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I have oil. ok so best case scenario my valves didnt bend and just the timing chain should be replaced before further damage, but most likely scenario is i have to get the head rebuilt. Say i supply all the parts (im guessing i cant rebuild the head myself without a shop?) then how much would that typically cost?


also, i am currently looking at the parts u suggested on rockauto and could not find replacements for valve seats, guilds, and buckets if you could point me towards those
Shop has to machine the valve seats out, press new ones in, and then angle grind them. Same with the valve guides.
All the other stuff you can do, just going to be tedious.

I don't think there is a part number for seats and guides, because if a dealership would see this kind of damage, they would just replace the whole head.

It's a long shot, but another option is finding a replacement head and "matching to head" cams (so you don't have to go through the trouble of adjusting clearances). If can find that, then you would just need to get a head gasket and other misc gaskets.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Shop has to machine the valve seats out, press new ones in, and then angle grind them. Same with the valve guides.
All the other stuff you can do, just going to be tedious.

I don't think there is a part number for seats and guides, because if a dealership would see this kind of damage, they would just replace the whole head.

It's a long shot, but another option is finding a replacement head and "matching to head" cams (so you don't have to go through the trouble of adjusting clearances). If can find that, then you would just need to get a head gasket and other misc gaskets.
76935

finally got the codes, no cam sensor just misfires, any guesses on what happened? Still likely my valves bent?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
spark plugs... and possibly cracked/torn spark coil boot.
Also check injector #4 connection.
In other words, my timing likely didn’t jump. I’ll still run a compression test but what could have happened? Vacuum leak? Injectors failed? I can’t be so sure it was the spark plugs..

I’ll check if it’s the coils or injectors. Either way I’ll have to replace them right?
 

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In other words, my timing likely didn’t jump. I’ll still run a compression test but what could have happened? Vacuum leak? Injectors failed? I can’t be so sure it was the spark plugs..

I’ll check if it’s the coils or injectors. Either way I’ll have to replace them right?
Spark coil boot. Spark is high enough voltage to arch through a crack in the boot, to the head... Been there, done that
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Spark coil boot. Spark is high enough voltage to arch through a crack in the boot, to the head... Been there, done that
Hmm you’re really certain it’s my spark plugs huh? I just replaced em and champion isn’t that bad of a company (compared to autolite).. I’ll go check if it’s really the spark plugs and the boot tomorrow
 

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Hmm you’re really certain it’s my spark plugs huh? I just replaced em and champion isn’t that bad of a company (compared to autolite).. I’ll go check if it’s really the spark plugs and the boot tomorrow
This time I didnt say it was the spark plugs them selves.

The "spark plug coil boot"
Since codes are saying that the misfire is on cylinder 4, take the coil out and wrap the outer rubber part of the coil that the spark plug presses into, with electrical tape.

If it starts working after that, the rubber part just needs to be replaced. It's like $3 at the parts store. If it doesnt then it's the actual coil or the injector.
 

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The problem with using champions on this, is that the power discharge is too high for this kind of system. Reason why the oem plugs are iridium. Champions will work, but at they will fail or foul out way sooner than iridium/platinum plugs.
The oem denso iridium plugs are suppose to be good for 100,000 miles, according to hyundai.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
The problem with using champions on this, is that the power discharge is too high for this kind of system. Reason why the oem plugs are iridium. Champions will work, but at they will fail or foul out way sooner than iridium/platinum plugs.
The oem denso iridium plugs are suppose to be good for 100,000 miles, according to hyundai.

This time I didnt say it was the spark plugs them selves.

The "spark plug coil boot"
Since codes are saying that the misfire is on cylinder 4, take the coil out and wrap the outer rubber part of the coil that the spark plug presses into, with electrical tape.

If it starts working after that, the rubber part just needs to be replaced. It's like $3 at the parts store. If it doesnt then it's the actual coil or the injector.
Yeah but not THAT soon as in 100 miles soon, anyways I’ll consider it if the spark plugs were faulty. Do u know about the denso TT iridium and if they have to be gapped or do they come pregapped at .40..

So is that considered the boot? whatever I’m covering with electrical tape? Ill give it a shot.

Anyways my car is still running though so what am I testing for? The CEL going away (cyl. 4 fixing itself?) Another misfire? Thanks again
 

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Yeah but not THAT soon as in 100 miles soon, anyways I’ll consider it if the spark plugs were faulty. Do u know about the denso TT iridium and if they have to be gapped or do they come pregapped at .40..

So is that considered the boot? whatever I’m covering with electrical tape? Ill give it a shot.

Anyways my car is still running though so what am I testing for? The CEL going away (cyl. 4 fixing itself?) Another misfire? Thanks again
They are suppose to be pre-gapped at the factory. Reason why the plugs come with the carboard barrel sleeve on the end of them.
Doesn't hurt to lightly check the gap though with a feeler gauge (those coin type gauges are likely to do some damage)
If any non-copper plugs come without the sleeve from the factory (spark plugs in general), return them, they are junk.

bottom of the coil
76936


This part. wrap electrical tape around the outside of it.
76937


Also because the codes said so, disconnect the #4 injector and reconnect.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
They are suppose to be pre-gapped at the factory. Reason why the plugs come with the carboard barrel sleeve on the end of them.
Doesn't hurt to lightly check the gap though with a feeler gauge (those coin type gauges are likely to do some damage)
If any non-copper plugs come without the sleeve from the factory (spark plugs in general), return them, they are junk.

bottom of the coil
View attachment 76936

This part. wrap electrical tape around the outside of it.
View attachment 76937

Also because the codes said so, disconnect the #4 injector and reconnect.
ok thanks! was just wondering because i read that its supposed to be .30 on the 2.0t but the TT denso ones ( which are the most popular ) come at .40
 

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ok thanks! was just wondering because i read that its supposed to be .30 on the 2.0t but the TT denso ones ( which are the most popular ) come at .40
When the car first came out there was a misprint in the service manual for the spark gap.
IIRC, the gap range is something like .28~.32
I believe NGK and Denso gap theirs from the factory at either .28 or .32, I forget which.

But having them gapped at say .40, it souldn't cause problems normal engine operations. It would cause issues with spark blow out higher in the rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
When the car first came out there was a misprint in the service manual for the spark gap.
IIRC, the gap range is something like .28~.32
I believe NGK and Denso gap theirs from the factory at either .28 or .32, I forget which.

But having them gapped at say .40, it souldn't cause problems normal engine operations. It would cause issues with spark blow out higher in the rpm.
YOooooo my engines fine! I finally looked under the hood and it turned out the injector for my fourth cylinder wasn’t plugged in all the way or it wasn’t plugged in properly when we put it back together. The only thing I need to solve is the ticking but now I know exactly what it is. The timing chain just needs to be replaced and it hasn’t jumped yet it’s just clicking.


thanks for all the help.Theres absolutely nothing wrong w the injectors, etc. I’m just a dumb ass! And I could never be happier!
 
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