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2013 Genesis coupe 2.0t... only mods are a turboxs bov and a btr stage 1 tune. Car has been great about 80k miles. Always change synthetic Mobil 1 every 3k miles have never missed a single oil change. Was driving hard yesterday and took a pull almost to redline in 3rd. All of the sudden approaching redline there was a pop or backfire as loud as a gunshot and then it ran like crap. Shut her down and got her towed home. She still cranks fine (no grenaded metallic rattles) and even starts but just runs like a**. We are thinking skipped timing but I thought the bk2s had a stronger chain...? About to do a compression test and I'll post the results. Any input, advice, etc is welcomed and I will be checking posts and posting updates frequently. Let's get her fixed!!
 

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Compression test was fine. About 140psi in all cylinders dry tested and cold. Pretty happy with those numbers. Just got the engine code P0068 pulled which says map/maf/tps. I just picked up a new map and maf sensor and will clean the throttle body. I'll post results but I'm still thinking skipped timing.
 

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So, the 2013 2.0t does not have a MAF sensor... learned that today. Also, changing the MAP on the intake manifold made no difference. Tomorrow I will clean the throttle body and pull the valve cover to check timing. I'll report back here.
 

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I've gotten pops and backfires but the car goes into limp mode afterward. Hasn't happened in a few years. Use to happen quiet a bit when it was happening. Cycling the ignition always fixed it.

When your valve cover is off take a pic of the front cam sprockets from over head. m On the BK 1s they have a rubber connector that channels oil from the head to an oil cooling channel on the front timing cover. I think with the addition of the oil/coolant heat exchanger on BK2s this may have been eliminated. I would like to know if the channel is still there or is the head sealed off now or does the oil just splash down on the chain.

Here you can see the round black rubber connector between and below the cams

 

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I've gotten pops and backfires but the car goes into limp mode afterward. Hasn't happened in a few years. Use to happen quiet a bit when it was happening. Cycling the ignition always fixed it.
So, it is running in some strange mode. If I crank it up it runs awfully with a hunting idle (down to about 1k rpm up to about 2.5k rpm) and a lot of popping and small backfires. It is really rough and seems like bad timing. Luckily, like stated earlier, the compression test was great so I am thinking if it is timing the valves survived. Anyone else think this may be timing skipped a tooth or 2? I will post photos tonight of the cam gears and chain etc. once the valve cover is off.

Anyone have any other ideas? I read about a guy that said his flywheel failed and described a very similar situation as well. Something involving the 'TONE RING'?? I have never heard of one. Anyone have any thoughts or ideas? They are all appreciated! Thanks @RedRaspberry for the comment! Keep them coming!

Also, does anyone have a link to a DIY or walkthrough of the removal of everything to get to the chain? I am guessing bumper, intercooler, radiator, possibly condenser coil? What about the radiator support? Come on GenCoupers! Let's get this thread going! I need my Genny back!!
 

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A dirty throttle body will cause problems like this. Whenever I got the pops and limp mode there was always a throttle body error code. Last time I had to clean it the idle was going all over the place and the ECU could not handle the fluctuations through timing like it usually does, finally set a DTC. You could see the timing changing drastically as the idle speed changed.
 

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I've gotten pops and backfires but the car goes into limp mode afterward. Hasn't happened in a few years. Use to happen quiet a bit when it was happening. Cycling the ignition always fixed it.

When your valve cover is off take a pic of the front cam sprockets from over head. m On the BK 1s they have a rubber connector that channels oil from the head to an oil cooling channel on the front timing cover. I think with the addition of the oil/coolant heat exchanger on BK2s this may have been eliminated. I would like to know if the channel is still there or is the head sealed off now or does the oil just splash down on the chain.

Here you can see the round black rubber connector between and below the cams

do you mean the rubber seal between the cam gears?

The cam chain is oiled near one of the guides by a little pipe/nozzle
I can take photos, when I get back to the house.
 

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do you mean the rubber seal between the cam gears?

The cam chain is oiled near one of the guides by a little pipe/nozzle
I can take photos, when I get back to the house.
yes the rubber seal and yes I know there is an oiler tube. The later versions of some other Hyundais (Sonata 2.4L I think) with the oil cooling channel quit using it and eliminated the rubber seal and the back side of the timing cover that forms the oil cooling channel when they went to the oil/water heat exchanges. I was wondering if the oil is just dumped now or if the plugged the hole in the head.
 

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yes the rubber seal and yes I know there is an oiler tube. The later versions of some other Hyundais (Sonata 2.4L I think) with the oil cooling channel quit using it and eliminated the rubber seal and the back side of the timing cover that forms the oil cooling channel when they went to the oil/water heat exchanges. I was wondering if the oil is just dumped now or if the plugged the hole in the head.
they probably did that, because the sonata engines are laterally mounted.

The engine front cover, is the same part number between the BK1 and BK2, so I would assume it' still using it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I can't believe I'm saying this... but I really wish the timing chain had stretched... doesn't seem to be off at all... after the throttle body I'll report back... any ideas in the meantime? I have heard of the flywheel failing and breaking the 'tone ring' and causing similar issues... anyone??
 

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There are two lines/notches on the cam gears and the TDC mark on the crank pulley. The two lines should line up in the center horizontally when the crank pulley is at TDC. It may take two or 4 revolutions for the marks to line up. If it is off the two lines will not line up horizontally.

 

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Discussion Starter #16
Any photo of the TDC mark on the crank? I just turned the motor over until cylinder 1 was at its highest point on the compression stroke... seemed like the marks we aligned... what else if it isn't timing or throttle body??
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Alright guys... I'm not home but I'm starting to think another possibility is I blew the intake manifold open/apart. Thoughts?
 

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Alright guys... I'm not home but I'm starting to think another possibility is I blew the intake manifold open/apart. Thoughts?
It's happened before... with the bk2's stupid plastic intake manifold. but you would definitely be able to hear it, with the hood open.

If it is, the BK1 manifold should be a direct swap. I haven't done it myself so is the reason why I said "should"
Others on here have done it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It is popping a bunch if I start it right around the intake manifold... that's why I'm now leaning toward this since timing seems fine
 
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