Hi All!
TurboXS has redesigned their Front Mount Intercooler kit for 2014, for all years of the Genesis Coupe. I love these guys, they never leave anything alone. All products are constantly updated, they listen to customer feedback, and find ways to improve existing products.
I currently run the Generation 1 TXS FMIC, and have never had any issues with it. However, a handful of people experienced splitting at the long diagonal welds on the end tanks of the first generation kit. I personally know one person that it happened to, but the vast majority of people had no issues. TXS replaced all defective cores free of charge to my knowledge, and the replacement cores all featured massively improved welds done by the in house welder at TXS in Maryland ( rather than the overseas factory ). If your core broke a weld, they sent you a replacement that was better than the core you sent them. Other than that he original kit had no issues that I know of, I never had any complaints about it. Raj@TXS always gets me though, insisting that I try out the new kit and show you guys all of the improvements they made.
This new kit fits all years with the 2.0T engine, 2010-2014.
So let’s start here, this is the old kit, you can see it in detail in my original Generation 1 TXS FMIC install walkthrough http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t-discus...rcooler-kit-install-review-diy-lots-pics.html
The original kit had a lot of good things going for it already, a big @$$ core that was very efficient, high quality piping with high quality welds, high quality silicone couplers, high quality t bolt clamps, and a really nice power steering cooler kit. If there were any things about the first kit that weren’t great, I would say , the crash beam/fmic mount could have been beefier , and the original kit required some minor cutting behind the bumper with a dremel to get perfect fitment.
Here’s a pic of the original TXS Crash beam vs the OEM crash beam. There is no way TXS or a any other company could make a crash beam as good as the OEM one, but I always felt they could have done better here. And they did as you’ll see later
On the original kit, you had to grind down the back of the fog light shrouds like this. Thankfully, as you’ll see later, no cutting or grinding necessary with this new kit!
Now, enough about that older kit! Let’s see the new one! What changes were made?
First of all, this thing shipped in one gigantic lol-worthy huge box, effing heavy too.
Unboxing
ooohhhh..
I had to stop and fan myself a little after the unboxing, seriously it took like an hour, and there was enough packing material left over to make at least five homeless dudes have a really pleasant winter.
Lots of changes..Pretty much everything changed..
For starters, the piping is even higher quality, with even nicer welds. The piping feels thicker than the old piping, and the welds look twice as good to my eyes.
Seriously all the welds are this nice..
They did not change the T bolt clamps, these are the same exact, wonderful, high quality clamps they used in the original kit, and i’m glad they weren’t changed. You need a 10mm deep socket to tighten these by the way.
They did not change the power steering cooler kit, but the whole crash beam and FMIC core is totally redesigned
Here’s the Generation 1 core again, for reference
This picture shows the cold side blow off valve relocation kit, this is not part of the normal FMIC kit, there is a separate charge for this product
Welds are really nice on the BOV relocation kit too
Again, the BOV relocation kit is a separate product
Let’s take a look at the new FMIC core. Plenty of changes here. For starters, it’s a totally different core. They eliminated the welded end tanks and replaced them with new cast end tanks. The piping angle is different, the welds that join the cast end tank to the core are epic huge, stamped logo in the core, and one boost port on each end tank, sealed off with an allen bolt and o-ring
Here is the power steering relocator kit. You need this because the new intercooler core sits on top of the OEM power steering cooler location, and part of this install requires relocating that cooler. The kit includes everything you need including hoses.
The quality of the silicone couplers is identical to the generation 1 kit, but the couplers that go on the core are totally different due to the new piping angle.
Here were my feelings on the new core at this point summed up in one picture
I really need to re-iterate, cast end tanks are usually not seen on the type of intercooler that goes on a Hyundai. This is effing cool.
I just can’t stop looking at this new core. It’s so damned pretty. You know you want one. You need to just send Raj@TurboXS a PM now and buy one. Just do it. Now that you’ve seen it, you know you have to have it.
This is one thick a$$ core. 3.5 inches thick, same thickness as the generation 1 core. Here it is compared to a big Arizona iced tea can, so you can understand the girth.
F!ck those cast end tanks are pretty
Let’s take a look at the new crash beam. Totally redesigned piece. The steel is at least twice as thick, the whole design of the bar is different, a bit more compact and significantly stronger. I’ll show pics of the old vs new bar later on in this thread
Before we get on with the install though, since I was doing a whole new turbo build along with this kit, with a white theme, I had to get my stuff powdercoated white! I use a powdercoater named Jay Banda from Kings Custom Powdercoat in Anaheim, California. He does great work, and his rates are excellent! Here are a few pics from the powdercoating process. I also had the turbine housing from my new TurboXS GTX2867R top mount turbo kit powdercoated white at the same time.
Masking everything off – I really only had to mask the turbine housing, and one part of the FMIC piping ( where the BOV and Map sensor mount ). You have to use a special type of tape for masking a powdercoat job, the tape has to survive being baked at 400 degrees
This is what a powdercoating machine looks like. This machine does several things at once. It uses air pressure to suck up and spit out powder out of that Nintendo zapper looking gun thing, and also provides an electrical charge to the rail that the items are hanging on, which attracts the metallic powder to your items.
So here’s my stuff hanging on the rail ☺ Waiting for my turn to go
Honestly that’s all the masking you need to do for this stuff, the rest of the piping needed no masking at all
First they start by baking your stuff, the heat serves two functions- it burns off any impurities on the surface, and it makes the powder stick to the item. In my case it was baked at 400 for about 10 minutes, something like a wheel would be in there a lot longer
Literally as soon as the stuff comes out of the oven, the powder coating must begin. The electric charge makes the powder get drawn to your stuff like a magnet, and the heat makes it stick instantly. You’ll watch it turn from flat to gloss colored right before your eyes in seconds. Cool stuff
That mask is kind of scary
He needs to get a nice even coat on everything as quickly as possible
I dunno I think this would be a really cool job lol
Pretty much as soon as the spraying is done it goes right back in the oven for another 10 minutes
Viola! All done!
The turbo came out beautifully!
So did the TXS FMIC piping!
TurboXS has redesigned their Front Mount Intercooler kit for 2014, for all years of the Genesis Coupe. I love these guys, they never leave anything alone. All products are constantly updated, they listen to customer feedback, and find ways to improve existing products.
I currently run the Generation 1 TXS FMIC, and have never had any issues with it. However, a handful of people experienced splitting at the long diagonal welds on the end tanks of the first generation kit. I personally know one person that it happened to, but the vast majority of people had no issues. TXS replaced all defective cores free of charge to my knowledge, and the replacement cores all featured massively improved welds done by the in house welder at TXS in Maryland ( rather than the overseas factory ). If your core broke a weld, they sent you a replacement that was better than the core you sent them. Other than that he original kit had no issues that I know of, I never had any complaints about it. Raj@TXS always gets me though, insisting that I try out the new kit and show you guys all of the improvements they made.
This new kit fits all years with the 2.0T engine, 2010-2014.
So let’s start here, this is the old kit, you can see it in detail in my original Generation 1 TXS FMIC install walkthrough http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t-discus...rcooler-kit-install-review-diy-lots-pics.html
The original kit had a lot of good things going for it already, a big @$$ core that was very efficient, high quality piping with high quality welds, high quality silicone couplers, high quality t bolt clamps, and a really nice power steering cooler kit. If there were any things about the first kit that weren’t great, I would say , the crash beam/fmic mount could have been beefier , and the original kit required some minor cutting behind the bumper with a dremel to get perfect fitment.
Here’s a pic of the original TXS Crash beam vs the OEM crash beam. There is no way TXS or a any other company could make a crash beam as good as the OEM one, but I always felt they could have done better here. And they did as you’ll see later
On the original kit, you had to grind down the back of the fog light shrouds like this. Thankfully, as you’ll see later, no cutting or grinding necessary with this new kit!
Now, enough about that older kit! Let’s see the new one! What changes were made?
First of all, this thing shipped in one gigantic lol-worthy huge box, effing heavy too.
Unboxing
ooohhhh..
I had to stop and fan myself a little after the unboxing, seriously it took like an hour, and there was enough packing material left over to make at least five homeless dudes have a really pleasant winter.
Lots of changes..Pretty much everything changed..
For starters, the piping is even higher quality, with even nicer welds. The piping feels thicker than the old piping, and the welds look twice as good to my eyes.
Seriously all the welds are this nice..
They did not change the T bolt clamps, these are the same exact, wonderful, high quality clamps they used in the original kit, and i’m glad they weren’t changed. You need a 10mm deep socket to tighten these by the way.
They did not change the power steering cooler kit, but the whole crash beam and FMIC core is totally redesigned
Here’s the Generation 1 core again, for reference
This picture shows the cold side blow off valve relocation kit, this is not part of the normal FMIC kit, there is a separate charge for this product
Welds are really nice on the BOV relocation kit too
Again, the BOV relocation kit is a separate product
Let’s take a look at the new FMIC core. Plenty of changes here. For starters, it’s a totally different core. They eliminated the welded end tanks and replaced them with new cast end tanks. The piping angle is different, the welds that join the cast end tank to the core are epic huge, stamped logo in the core, and one boost port on each end tank, sealed off with an allen bolt and o-ring
Here is the power steering relocator kit. You need this because the new intercooler core sits on top of the OEM power steering cooler location, and part of this install requires relocating that cooler. The kit includes everything you need including hoses.
The quality of the silicone couplers is identical to the generation 1 kit, but the couplers that go on the core are totally different due to the new piping angle.
Here were my feelings on the new core at this point summed up in one picture
I really need to re-iterate, cast end tanks are usually not seen on the type of intercooler that goes on a Hyundai. This is effing cool.
I just can’t stop looking at this new core. It’s so damned pretty. You know you want one. You need to just send Raj@TurboXS a PM now and buy one. Just do it. Now that you’ve seen it, you know you have to have it.
This is one thick a$$ core. 3.5 inches thick, same thickness as the generation 1 core. Here it is compared to a big Arizona iced tea can, so you can understand the girth.
F!ck those cast end tanks are pretty
Let’s take a look at the new crash beam. Totally redesigned piece. The steel is at least twice as thick, the whole design of the bar is different, a bit more compact and significantly stronger. I’ll show pics of the old vs new bar later on in this thread
Before we get on with the install though, since I was doing a whole new turbo build along with this kit, with a white theme, I had to get my stuff powdercoated white! I use a powdercoater named Jay Banda from Kings Custom Powdercoat in Anaheim, California. He does great work, and his rates are excellent! Here are a few pics from the powdercoating process. I also had the turbine housing from my new TurboXS GTX2867R top mount turbo kit powdercoated white at the same time.
Masking everything off – I really only had to mask the turbine housing, and one part of the FMIC piping ( where the BOV and Map sensor mount ). You have to use a special type of tape for masking a powdercoat job, the tape has to survive being baked at 400 degrees
This is what a powdercoating machine looks like. This machine does several things at once. It uses air pressure to suck up and spit out powder out of that Nintendo zapper looking gun thing, and also provides an electrical charge to the rail that the items are hanging on, which attracts the metallic powder to your items.
So here’s my stuff hanging on the rail ☺ Waiting for my turn to go
Honestly that’s all the masking you need to do for this stuff, the rest of the piping needed no masking at all
First they start by baking your stuff, the heat serves two functions- it burns off any impurities on the surface, and it makes the powder stick to the item. In my case it was baked at 400 for about 10 minutes, something like a wheel would be in there a lot longer
Literally as soon as the stuff comes out of the oven, the powder coating must begin. The electric charge makes the powder get drawn to your stuff like a magnet, and the heat makes it stick instantly. You’ll watch it turn from flat to gloss colored right before your eyes in seconds. Cool stuff
That mask is kind of scary
He needs to get a nice even coat on everything as quickly as possible
I dunno I think this would be a really cool job lol
Pretty much as soon as the spraying is done it goes right back in the oven for another 10 minutes
Viola! All done!
The turbo came out beautifully!
So did the TXS FMIC piping!