Upgrade Order

949 Views 14 Replies 8 Participants Last post by tsukubarspec, Feb 6, 2011

CaffienD

Discussion Starter · Jan 25, 2011

Alright,

Planning to start my performance upgrades, but need feedback on any specific order I should do them.

Just planning on CP-E Intake, HKS BOV, CP-E Catback Exhaust & CMD. (CP-E Downpipe somewhere way down the line)

Was gonna do this order:

1. Intake + BOV
2. CMD
3. Exhaust

Any problem with this order ?

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

infeKteDx

· #2 · Jan 25, 2011

Do exhaust prior to CMD, letting your exhaust breathe opens up HP obviously, but if you tune it prior to that, you'll need a retune after the exhaust as well to release some more hidden HP!

cowcow

· #3 · Jan 25, 2011

I would do CMD first IMO. You'll feel it the most whereas the other mods are supporting mods. You can always retune it yourself after adding the other parts.

CaffienD

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jan 25, 2011

Other than having to retune it, is there any problem with the order I was thinking ?

tsukubarspec

· #5 · Jan 25, 2011

no it's basically up to you but if you don't want to continually tune i would get everything bolt on wise done that you're going to do and then tune it to those specs.

Quartermaster

· #6 · Jan 25, 2011

do your hardware first, THEN tune to save yourself the labor time.

remove all the cats in the exhaust tract if you can, frees up the most power of any hardware mod.

Sosick

· #7 · Jan 25, 2011

Is there a way to completely rework your exhaust and just put simulators in? I know with my maxima once i began to remove cats i had to put in o2 simulators. Do they make them for these cars?

Quartermaster

· #8 · Jan 25, 2011

02 simulators are pretty universal as I understand it, they fit into an O2 bung and send bogus data... you can also do the sparkplug gap/spacer trick which backs the O2 sensor out of the airflow a bit. We used that with success on Tiburons.

One easy way to avoid this problem is fabbing a dump pipe off your turbine exit so your wastegate exit is divorced from the exhaust, I have it on my car, that way I can have a full exhaust tract (the last cat is still there) so the system still thinks it's saving the planet

Sosick

· #9 · Jan 25, 2011

Quartermaster said:
02 simulators are pretty universal as I understand it, they fit into an O2 bung and send bogus data... you can also do the sparkplug gap/spacer trick which backs the O2 sensor out of the airflow a bit. We used that with success on Tiburons.

One easy way to avoid this problem is fabbing a dump pipe off your turbine exit so your wastegate exit is divorced from the exhaust, I have it on my car, that way I can have a full exhaust tract (the last cat is still there) so the system still thinks it's saving the planet

Thanx for the info... Now if only I could figure out the most cost effective way to 300-350 whp. I keep seeing so many post on needing a new turbo vs keeping and reworking the stock one etc. Im knew to this whole turbo thing and its a bit much at first.

BadBoyBill

· #10 · Jan 25, 2011

Do catless downpipe, intake, CMD until your ready for the next bump in power
then do FMIC, injectors, catback exhaust.

With any tuning your going to be flowing more fuel, thus making more hot air
exiting the engine, you want that hot gas to get far and fast away from the
engine/turbo.

Theres a thread somewhere on here, where someones stock cat went kaboom,
and was likely related to heat.

Downpipe with wideband bung already built in $300.00
Big intake like AEM, don't do a short ram $225.00
Boost gauge $100.00
CMD with wideband2 and AFR gauge $700.00

All new for $1325.00, or you could find most of it on here and it would run you about $900.00

See less See more

Sosick

· #11 · Jan 25, 2011

Ive always been nervous about cold air intakes sucking up water. Anybody here ever had that happen? I guess since the car is fi that cooler air would have a much more useful purpose than the gains I saw on say my mustang for instance?

FortyOzSpartan

· #12 · Jan 25, 2011

Sosick said:
Ive always been nervous about cold air intakes sucking up water. Anybody here ever had that happen? I guess since the car is fi that cooler air would have a much more useful purpose than the gains I saw on say my mustang for instance?

Don't drive into a lake

:rofl:

Quartermaster

· #13 · Jan 25, 2011

... don't sweat CAIs, you have to phsyicall submerge the ENTIRE pipe opening & filter. COMPLETELY. So basically avoid dipping into lake michigan on your way to work, and you'll be good.

to make over 300whp, you need to get on a different turbo than stock, it's just too limited even when built up.

CaffienD

Discussion Starter · #14 · Feb 5, 2011

Guess I'm going a different directions now, but the question still remains the same...what order ?

CP-E intake is on it's way and will be in next week.

That leaves exhaust and tune to do. Thought about it for a while and have pretty much come to the conclusion that I can be perfectly happy for a good long while by using a canned tune.

So i'm going with the BR tune.

Would it matter whichever I buy/install first when it comes to the BR tune and CBE ?

tsukubarspec

· #15 · Feb 6, 2011

no, canned tunes are just a set tune but your afr is going to be different than stock. it's not going to do anything harmful for now but i'd get a wideband gauge just in case.

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.