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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After reading about the water in the trunk issues, I decided to check mine out and sure enough, there was half an inch of water in the spare wheel well. The trunk carpet was damp but it hasn't rained in a few days, so that's not surprising. It seemed that the water had concentrated around the wheel well, so I initially taped the tailight seams, to see if I could correct it before heading to the dealership, and it seemed to work! I went for a few mile drive after spraying the car down several times and finding it dry. After the drive though, I noticed the darn spare wheel was wet again!

Against my better judgement, I went ahead and stripped the trunk to check where the sunroof tubes go through the body. The tubes were secured properly, but the wells they sit in were full of water too. Since the tails were dry, I assumed it was the tubes and went to call the dealership.

Then I noticed something. There was significant drip coming from the left side, right from where that yellow sponge puck thing is! I pulled the sponge puck out and saw it was dirty and gross (so it's been leaking for a while) and when I poured the hose on the rear glass again, like clockwork- drip drip drip! Not only was it coming from the circle cut out in the inner trunk for the sponge puck, but also from the seam weld near it since gravity was pulling it down every surface. But where is it getting in? The window seam?

Upon further investigation, I spotted a 1/4" crack in trough where the trunk meets the rear drivers fender meets the back glass! It was big enough for me to shine a light through and i was able to replicate it over and over and over. I wouldn't have ever noticed it if I weren't walking by at just the right angle.

Although it doesn't explain the right side sunroof drain well being wet, it's a darn good start. I'll be contacting the dealer when I return from vacation. In the meantime, I put a dab of silicone on the crack and covered in waterproof gorilla tape. Hopefully this helps others who are in the same predicament as I am!











 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's not on the other side, and water pools there (being the base of the window) and falls down the inner fender directly into the trunk, from what I see...
 

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Good find with the one near the glass. Either get some seam sealer or clear silicone caulk and do it yourself, the dealer is worthless, you did a better job then they would of. As for the tails, that area is designed to have a space. I would take out the tails and get new seals or under warranty have the dealer replace the tail seals and make sure it is tightened down good. You should not have to have tape in that channel.
 

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although i dont think i've ever had water issues, i'm gonna check mine tonight just as a preventative measure.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well i removed the sealant and the tape and took it to the dealer, stripped trunk and all. I showed the lead tech EXACTLY where the crack is, and he verified by shining a light through it from below. I showed him the rust marks where it had been running down, and had that documented in the customer write-up too. Although they never fogged up, I said the tails were condensed also, and he said they'd put new seals on them anyway. Short of it being in an undocumented rear end accident (which is possible, carfax isn't reliable....) it would all be covered under warranty. Im heading out on vacation for a week, so it gives them time to mess around with it. Ive been going there for 9 years, and pretty much said if it's not fixed, we"re gonna have major issues with the higher up's lol. Here's hoping the body shop can mend the crack and not mess up the paint too much, I'm not accepting anything less than perfect on this one.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
so update, it only took one day lol. the guys at the body shop said that only several 13's, the driver's side is not welded (due to the configuration of the gas cap in the fender or something) and was corrected with factory sealant. they ran the water test for six hours, bone dry, waited four hours, then ran the test again for another 2. my buddy drove by and verified them doing it at 1oclock sat, so i'm optimistic about it. they're also ordering two new tails with an upgraded seal. the service tech said the non-weld was corrected for 14's, but i'd still check yours to the pictures i posted. i also got it in writing exactly what as done, so i'm hoping if it happens again, it'll help.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Overwhelming my own thread, but I got a tube of GE clear silicone and went to town. Although their silicone fixed the leak in the crack, I doubled up all seams I could find, including the gap between the tailights and the body. I figure tape looks terrible and if the water can't get in the gap, then there's no reason to put extra weatherstripping between the tailight seals. I'll post pics soon. Good luck all!
 

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Discussion Starter #11


100% waterproof silicone caulking used to seal up gap between tails and body- flexible and never hardens so it can be cut easily if I ever need to remove the tails.

 

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there's already a multi page thread about this in the Interior section. I've got a long write up about it but bottom line is that Hyundai's welding robots were programmed by retarded monkeys drunk on whiskey as the trunks leak for everyone due to bad welds but also, the entire car is plagued by bad welds. I've had 4 corrected under warranty in less than 15k miles of owning her.
 

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Putting tape over the taillight to body crack stopped any water getting into my trunk. Been good over a year now with many heavy rains.
I am getting a little water in the trunk. Besides the tape did you replace the tail light seals?

What kind of tape did you use, have a picture of where you applied it?
 

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I am getting a little water in the trunk. Besides the tape did you replace the tail light seals?

What kind of tape did you use, have a picture of where you applied it?
I doubled up on one side the factory seal. On the other side I used some closed cell foam weather strip. The closed cell foam works better. Used 1/2".

Tape I used is 2" black electrical type. It last about two years before it started lifting. Black gorilla tape would be one and done.

Before



After


 

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I doubled up on one side the factory seal. On the other side I used some closed cell foam weather strip. The closed cell foam works better. Used 1/2".

Tape I used is 2" black electrical type. It last about two years before it started lifting. Black gorilla tape would be one and done.

Before



After


When you said double up applied foam tape over existing foam seal then placed back to body of car? If so doesn't that make it too thick to screw the nuts properly?

The tape you used does it leave a sticky mess if you need to take it off?
 

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Double foam seal was two of the OEM ones. Main problem with them is they are too thin. The other side I did not use the OEM gasket, just the closed cell foam weatherstrip. It is important to get closed cell not open cell foam.

The tape I used does not leave any sticky residue and comes off easily. It is a 3M product. Similar to this.

**3M? Vinyl Tape 472 Black, 2 in x 36 yd 10.4 mil, 24 per case Bulk
 

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Double foam seal was two of the OEM ones. Main problem with them is they are too thin. The other side I did not use the OEM gasket, just the closed cell foam weatherstrip. It is important to get closed cell not open cell foam.

The tape I used does not leave any sticky residue and comes off easily. It is a 3M product. Similar to this.

**3M? Vinyl Tape 472 Black, 2 in x 36 yd 10.4 mil, 24 per case Bulk
Remember where bought tape?

You used 2 OEM gaskets on the 1 side? The can be a little expensive.

Sounds like the tape might be doing the most work keeping the water out.
 

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Motion Industries is where I got the tape. The closed cell foam weather strip is the best gasket material. It is cheap. And yes the tape stops the water from even getting to the taillight back. The design is very poor as all the water runs down the trunk channels and then over the back of the taillights.
 
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