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Discussion Starter #1
Ok this is set more toward the drag racers. On the 2013 GC with 8spd auto what would be the weakest part in drivetrain as in,, trans, driveshaft,rear diff with lim slip.,or rear drive axle shafts? Just trying to see what have failed on people that drag racer their GC's Thanks
 

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Diff bolts are the most common failure from what I've seen. No one has really pushed the 8 speed to it's breaking point yet so you won't get much info on that, and the driveshaft, diff and axles seem to be able to take a good beating without causing many issues.
 

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How about if adding turbo to 3.8 and sticky tires in the setup?
 

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I have new urethane diff bushings coming and adding the 4th one in the kit. I assume this will solve the bolt breaking issuues ?
 

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Yes, the bolts with four poly bushings should help prevent the bolts breaking, usually they would break on stock setups or when someone used a mixture of solid and poly bushings but no one has had the Exceladyne kit on for terribly long so it's not guaranteed.

Arguably there's no active member harder on his drive train than @SteveJohns29 and he's serviced or upgraded many of the components, he's a manual 2.0T but he can still give guidance on the stuff behind the transmission, I'd ask him.

As for turboing the 8 speed, watch this thread as I'm sure we'll learn the limits relatively soon: http://www.gencoupe.com/3-8-v6-discussion-2013-up/441106-turbokits-com-2013-3-8-8at-gdi-turbo-kit-pre-release-group-buy.html
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks
 

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Your rear diff mounts are your weakest point. After that, your Axles, then driveshaft.
I can account to all this too.

13 3.8l track

2k + road racing miles

I dont know much about drag but for road racing the front brakes are the biggest weakest point.
 

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for longevity

diff mounts
drive shaft (specifically the rubber doughnut coupler)
axles
transmission

Last 2 are pretty even.
 

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Well I can mostly help you from my own experience. Transmission for the most part functions normally under increased power, however around 400hp the torque converter starts to slip. My original transmission went at 42k miles. After a tear down the torque converter propellors were shot, valvebody and most other internals were fine. Level ten offers a rebuild on all of our autos and you could even just rebuild the torque converter. Surprisingly the Diffs are pretty decent quality. When my tranny first started giving me problems I wanted to be sure it was only the tranny so I cracked open my diff, fluid was fine, differential itself looked basically brand new still and there were no metal flakes in the old fluid. Like someone else had posted the differential bolts are pretty weak along with the mounts, and they do tend to run on the hotter side so cooling wouldn't be a bad idea. Driveshaft itself is fine besides the rubber bushings start to go under heavier use. However I would leave the rubber bushings there especially on the auto because its meant to keep unnecessary tension away from the trans. No weak u joints or anything like that to worry about
 

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Are the weak diff mounts or broken bolts commonly accompanied with fairly loud pops heard coming from under the rear end while driving slowly over uneven terrain? Mine does this sometimes and I've yet to find out why. The dealer checked the bolts and tightened them but the pops persist.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No, all suspension is stock right now.
 

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Looks stock.
 
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