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what 1/4 mile 0-60 times you guys turning with intake/CBE/test pipes/tune?

22K views 66 replies 33 participants last post by  Gen2013touring 
#1 ·
Thinking most are making about 330RWHP, what's the performance times work out to be?
 
#4 ·
330hp with stock turbo
lolwut
 
#17 ·
Due to being in Seattle and this horrid rain I have to wait for a dry spell to go to SIR or evergreen speedway to find out

Prior to adding my SFR tune, which I still need to dyno, I had 306whp/271wtq with just CBE, TP, and SRI....if I'm lucky I could be at 316whp or 326whp but I don't want to put my eggs in one basket here. I plan to do downpipes in January or February if snow doesn't **** up my paychecks.
 
#7 ·
I think you are meaning 330 crank HP. Not brake HP.
With my modes I know I am over 330 crank HP...
 
#10 ·
I am going to say that as no one has said a time yet. There probably haven’t been many on the track. I would be curious since the stock numbers are as such:

From Motor Trend, 2010 3.8 track vs. 2013 3.8 track:
0-60, 5.4/5.2
0-100, 14.4/13.3
1/4 mile, 14.2@99/13.9@102
60-0, 111 ft/112 ft
Skid pad, .94g/.91g
Figure eight, 25.4@.71g/25.5@.74g
Tested weight, 3476/3527

I would be willing to rough estimate that with those Bolt ons you should see around
0-60 / 4.5ish
1/4 mile / 13 @ 112-114

Again this is just a rough estimate. By no means gospel.
 
#16 ·
lolwut?

4.5 0-60 and a 13 second flat 1/4. Damn bro, totally should have bought a 2013!

:fleshbox:
 
#12 ·
Completely stock

The best time I've gotten out of my stock '13 3.8 GT was a 13.66@106, reaction time was 0.001. When I get home next week I'll be starting on installing an Injen SRI, lightweight pulleys, Ark Grip exhaust, GrimmSpeed phenolic IM gasket, GrimmSpeed porting and ceramic coating, Enkei PF01's all around, and carbon fiber fenders, trunk and spoiler. I go to the track quite often, so I'll post results when I get them.
 
#14 ·
uhhh what is your 60 foot. because reaction time has no bearing on your top speed, just end time. please post that slip up
 
#15 ·
Well, since the thread was not directed toward top speed, only 1/4mi. times, I felt it was important to note reaction time to show I was not slow off the line, it was WOT from the time the clock started. As soon as I get back home from Brazil I will dig up the slip and post it so we can have a nice baseline for before and after my mods and the distance times.
 
#18 ·
1/4 will also depend on tires, stock pos tires are no good for any track
with those mods and a tune gen. makes around 320whp, when better tunes comes out - it will make more...
Stock it can do 13.6 in 1/4 mile (if you can get it to stick)
with mods mentioned and better tires - high 12s are possible
 
#20 ·
Lol at eldominio.........
BKED we all should have.... ;)
-Continue bench racing-
 
#31 ·
and still no slips posted. I have a 2.0 with TBE and .5 Tune. I ran a 13.813 @ 102.09... Us 2.0 already caught up with the 3.8s. Custom tune should put me in low 13s maybe high 12s with wide / better tires.

[/IMG]
 
#32 ·
$1500 bucks invested to be at 3.8 speed -___-
 
#34 ·
Yeah. That A/T is great on the strip. I'm sure if I had a AT, I would be around 13.6ish... what I'm trying to say is, power gains so much easier with Turbo. Doesn't take much at all to be at 3.8 speeds and not much more to top the 3.8.
 
#36 ·
Yeah and 7 grand LOL... I can put 7 grand in my car and be at 10 seconds probably lol.. Hope u have 7 grand to spend cuz in less than 2 grand, i'll be in the 12s. Goodluck killah..

Btw
"3.8 A/T running 13.5 stock... " I know motortrend probably has these numbers. Have you ran yours? And you're an A/T <-- Lol.
 
#37 ·
There is no way that for 7K you will get your 2.0T to a 10 second car. It is just not happening.

The fact is that JGowen ran a 13.66@106 and Spooled ran a 13.7@104 Bone stock. I agree that the 2.0T is a great platform but you spent 1,500 and are in the ballpark of, but still not as fast as a STOCK 3.8. Another $5,500 will make you fast but you will NOT get into 10's. How is it that you believe than an additional MEASLY $500 will get you from 13.81@102 to drop almost a whole second. Drag tires? The one problem with the 19T on your car is that it makes incredible torque so low in the powerband which makes it hard to hook up. I LOVE turbo cars and I had a 2011 2.0T that I put a PRW 19T on and it was awesome but I do not believe that you should be up in the 2013 3.8 Discussion board basically trying to say that your 2.0T is better. Both are great platforms and both can make incredible power. The 3.8 overall will be able to support more USABLE power but the 2.0T could definitely make huge numbers. Having a car that is turbo from the factory is always nice because of the relatively small investment needed to greatly increase the potency of the engine.
 
#38 ·
OMEGA,

That last line...
"Having a car that is turbo from the factory is always nice because of the relatively small investment needed to greatly increase the potency of the engine."

That was all I was getting at with my first two posts and actually my 3rd post...
YEs you are correct, 10 seconds with 7 grand not gonna happen, I was just responding with a little anger to Krypts "ut at the end of the day it's still a 4Cyl."

So basically, all i was trying to say again was exactly what u said in ur last line.
 
#40 ·
3.8 can get 300whp with warranty mostly in tact. That has to count for something.
 
#41 · (Edited)
^ A 2013 2.0T R-Spec has a base price of $26,500 vs a 2013 3.8 R-Spec having a base price of $28,750. That's $2,250. I agree that for that additional $2,250 you'd be right about where the stock 3.8 is speed wise. Let's look at it another way if you will:

Did you pay for your car in cash? I didn't. I traded my 2011 2.0T in for my 2013 3.8 and it changed my payment by adding a whopping $46/month which did not do anything to my budget. Since it didn't really affect my budget, I still have that $2,250 to spend on mods which would get me a custom exhaust, downpipes, h-pipes, custom or R2C intake and a tune which would put me at atleast 330whp which is around 400crank hp. That power level to me is ALL I would ever want for a daily driver car. In my honest opinion, much more than that is just a waste. 1/2 of the time, you are behind a slow person and it just isn't worth it to speed. I like acceleration but speeding is for idiots.

I agree that you have to look at total price but looking at it from a monthly stand point is also helpful. If you take that $2,250 of mod money spent on the 2.0T upfront to get it to stock 3.8 quickness, and divide it by the additional $46/month that I am paying, it takes 48 months to recuperate that cash. What that means is that yes you are now at stock 3.8 power levels but I get to spread that additional cost over the next 4 years of my life and still have the $2,250 in cash lying around to do what I want. This is just what worked best for me. I also feel a lot safer taking a car that was built to handle 290whp from the factory to 330whp as a daily driver than I am, in the case of my 2011 2.0T, taking a car from 185whp to 330whp as a daily.

People always argue about their stupid cars because they think that because they have X car with Y engine that it somehow gives them worth. It is all vanity and foolish. I respect the 2.0T crowd and I respect the 3.8 crowd. Whatever car works best for you is cool. There is like 0.01% of the population that will ever take a powerplant to its maximum potential and there is ALWAYS someone faster so who cares? If you want to modify your car, cool, but know your limit. I would like to do some simple intake and exhaust and maybe a drop and some wheels. Other than that, I know X car will always be faster but in traffic and with speed limits, which we can ALL admit comprises most of our driving, both cars travel at the same speed so again, who cares? I've tried taking cars to ridiculous limits before. It is a COMPLETE waste of money and yields no reward. People are chasing a pipe dream that gives them nothing. It is a complete waste of your time trying to build a car that will beastmode everybody on the streets. It is a vain pursuit. Choose your car and like it for what it is and be content.

/Soapbox
 
#42 ·
^ A 2013 2.0T R-Spec has a base price of $26,500 vs a 2013 3.8 R-Spec having a base price of $28,750. That's $2,250. I agree that for that additional $2,250 you'd be right about where the stock 3.8 is speed wise. ...
...
330whp which is around 400crank hp. That power level to me is ALL I would ever want for a daily driver car. In my honest opinion, much more than that is just a waste. 1/2 of the time, you are behind a slow person and it just isn't worth it to speed. I like acceleration but speeding is for idiots.
...
I agree with most of that. I was just comparing 2.0 trim level 1-3 to 3.8 trim level 1-3, and both trim levels 1 through 3 are about 4k apart. Unfortunately they aren't equal trim levels so it really doesn't work. Still miffed about no 11+' 2.0 Track trim.

I'm glad your happy with that power level, but for some of us these aren't daily drivers, but that is why I'm probably going to sit with around 300whp when I get there, I have another car to track with. If you want to have a dyno queen, autocross, or drag race car more power to you.

Nothing like over 300wft/tq and a retired/distracted driver in front of you.

They are both decent engines, but I would think if you wanted mounds of power you'd just swap in an LSx, they seem pretty easy to get loads of power out of them fairly reliably.
 
#43 · (Edited)
Stock can do mid 13s with good driver even with stock POS tires.
With mods listed, good driver and dragradials....high 12s.
Some one with bolted 2013 did do high 12s....most people here waist their time at the track on stock tire
 
#45 · (Edited)
sjmcdo3 needs to line up next to THIS '13 3.8 M/T. Back to the drawing board for him....

But in all seriousness, I really like the potential of the '13 2.0T. When they finally can do a turbo swap :gc-Popcorn_Smiley_b only thing
I never understood is why they swap a small turbo for another relatively small turbo :dunno:
 
#46 ·
I bet a lot of the 13' owners won't do as small turbo swaps. The advantage of doing that on the earlier years is it's cheaper since you don't have to get a new exhaust manifold right away. With the combined housing (which we can Pnp btw) you might as well go bigger since you have to buy a new housing.

I'm not too tempted yet myself to swap, getting 313LB at 3k out of my tiny turbo lol.
 
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