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(╯°□°)╯︵ ┻━┻
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The OEM route was from down to up. Also isn't the pcv valve on the intake side? This is the "out" can.
No, the PCV valve is on the side you have the can installed on, it's what the hose coming from the crank case is connected to, the vent side is just an open vent. Yes the OEM PCV hose goes uphill but over a much shorter run of hose, you now have several feet of hose for the oil vapor to coat and potentially cause pooling in the line. It may not cause any issues as you have it but best practice is to get the can below the level of the valve to cause as much of the oil to naturally flow towards the can as possible.

Also, I looked at the picture again, did you replace or wrap the brake booster line too?
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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18,622 Posts
You want the can ideally to be the lowest spot in the loop no matter what side. Also in a cool location.

But most cans need to be accesed from above to empty. These are off my list. IMHO better to drill a drain in them and attach some hose so you can access them from below and still be in a cooler than engine compartment location. Just use a plug and clamp in the end of the hose.
 

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Yeah if I placed the can lower (under the valve) then it would need to sit on the subframe lol. It needs access to unscrew, so that spot had to work. It's my friend's car, and I don't think he will keep it long enough for the valve to fail. I'm more worried about the carbon build up on the intake valves. Oh and I did wrap the brake booster lines, more clean look.
 

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1,119 Posts
Happy with quality, fit, etc? I had IS vents years ago and they were ****.
Ive only had them on a day but if i were going to be critical, they dont fit snug to the hood in the back but its not really noticeable, and the mesh looks like it needs to be painted black, its like it has a white haze to it mabey a reaction from the adhesive used to attach the mesh. I purchaced a spair set of stock ones last year after I.S. never shipped my order after several months had passed. I intended to make my own using the spairs, but if im honest mine probably wouldn't have turned out as nice as these, well mabey the fitment would have. Time will tell but for now I'll give them a 8 out of 10.
 

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204 Posts
Under-body and rust prevention

  • Epoxy primer
  • Marine spec polyurethane paint
  • Wax rubber seal coat
Hope to button it up this / next week and start swap work got a bad luck and got a copart car with shot motor for a donor ;/

img_20200607_180226.jpg
 

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2012 Gen. 3.8 Track w/ZF
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763 Posts
I finally, at 116,000 miles, got my 6 spd. ZF transmission service done. It was hanging over my head like a lead weight. Still working as new, but it seems like it shifts a tad better than before. The old oil that came out was discolored a bit, but no signs of metal particles at all. Happy it's done!
 

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In Charge of Snacks
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2,107 Posts
Under-body and rust prevention

  • Epoxy primer
  • Marine spec polyurethane paint
  • Wax rubber seal coat
Hope to button it up this / next week and start swap work got a bad luck and got a copart car with shot motor for a donor ;/

View attachment 75955
I live in southern California, and I un-ironically want this.
 

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204 Posts
I live in southern California, and I un-ironically want this.
I'm trying P101 Teamac polyurethane paint on epoxy primer, its very scratch resistant and chemically resistant (we have salt on roads during the winter).

This one:
Teamac High Performance Marine Gloss 2 Pack Topcoat. After next winter will need to remove some topcoat and check how it did

On top of this Valvoline tectyl body safe as a top coat

But .. i have to say i was shocked how hard and resistant the original under-body paint is i would like to know what type that is if someone knows please tell,
I removed it form one frame rail and it was tough as nails. i would


Also some bit-gum wax filler for internal cavities inside of frame rails.
 

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2012 Gen. 3.8 Track w/ZF
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763 Posts
If i may ask, who did it and how much?
I assume you live in Henderson,.NV. On American Pacific going east just before Gibson Rd. on the right is a place called "Asian Import Auto". They did it for me for $420. Seems like they do pretty good work. Very meticulous about the drain and refill cycles and watching the temps. , etc.
 
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