Dual Oil Catch Can Setup! Really happy with how it looks!
I can't keep myself revisiting this post.After 9 months of downtime she is moving again with her new turbo. Dyno-tune coming soon, scheduled for September 10th. Using the base maps, ignition, etc. a friend and I managed to get the car idling and driveable albeit keeping boost only around 2-6psi. Was nice to get her off jack stands, wash her, and take her for a spin.
BK2 with Haltech and an A/C workaround (which is still getting some kinks worked out with idle).
ID 1300x2 injectors
I did this to my then new 2014 Caspian black ultimate coupe almost immediately after i brought it home. Manufactured 1/14, purchaced 7/14, the paint looked so bad i actually got the dealer to take a bit off. When i went back to get my green slip the salesman couldn't believe the difference. 😁I have my Genny under a Coverking cover. She gets released tomorrow for a cruise into work. This weekend I stripped, clayed, sealed and waxed my new Veloster N. My wife thought I was nuts. I showed her my clay bar. All this crap from sitting on the dock to be shipped to the dealer. Now my "N" looks good.
As you were clay bar ing her you should have used some medium body solvent,.............and then ceramic'd her.I have my Genny under a Coverking cover. She gets released tomorrow for a cruise into work. This weekend I stripped, clayed, sealed and waxed my new Veloster N. My wife thought I was nuts. I showed her my clay bar. All this crap from sitting on the dock to be shipped to the dealer. Now my "N" looks good.
I'll be sure to post some updates once tune day is here.I can't keep myself revisiting this post.
It's absolutely incredible seeing that G25-660. Incredible work my friend.
Everything looks clean. I really hope you a blast ripping it when you finalize everything.
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Relocating the IAT further up stream makes sense. Question, why do manufacturers put it as close as possible to the air filter ? Jeggs sells TB for various vehicles, in an article I read by them they said it's very important for the IAT sensor to be near the filter? Doesn't make sense to me thoughIAT's are measured in the airbox, so the spacer won't do much for suggested IATs (read by the sensor). You'll need to do what I did and put the IAT sensor in the manifold or behind the TB.
I did not test before the spacer, but I did test after and saw a significant difference between AAT (outside temps) and IAT's, upwards or 40* after only a few seconds of sitting idle and while cruising, still between 20*-30*. I imagine without the spacer it would have been a little higher.
Add the spacer and heat shield the bottom of the manifold (See my other threads) and you'll be better off.
Here is the issue though. I've tested about every setup I can think of and it seems that shaving and relocating the IAT sensor to the top of the air box, adding heat shield to the air box (or your intake) and the manifold will yield best results.
I moved the IAT sensor to the front of the snorkel and proved that you get the same temp air from stock setup as you do with a true CAI in the fender, but the car doesn't like that. Due to the heat on the manifold, it'll add too much timing and you'll start to see KR under load.
Your car will thank you for adding the spacer and the heat shielding, but on an N/A car, I wouldn't worry about the SUGGESTED intake temps (temps from the sensor) as much as the ACTUAL temps going into the cylinders.