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Advenio Pariter
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I have my Genny under a Coverking cover. She gets released tomorrow for a cruise into work. This weekend I stripped, clayed, sealed and waxed my new Veloster N. My wife thought I was nuts. I showed her my clay bar. All this crap from sitting on the dock to be shipped to the dealer. Now my "N" looks good.
 

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After 9 months of downtime she is moving again with her new turbo. Dyno-tune coming soon, scheduled for September 10th. Using the base maps, ignition, etc. a friend and I managed to get the car idling and driveable albeit keeping boost only around 2-6psi. Was nice to get her off jack stands, wash her, and take her for a spin.

BK2 with Haltech and an A/C workaround (which is still getting some kinks worked out with idle).
G25-660 turbo
ID 1300x2 injectors


I can't keep myself revisiting this post.
It's absolutely incredible seeing that G25-660. Incredible work my friend.
Everything looks clean. I really hope you a blast ripping it when you finalize everything.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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I have my Genny under a Coverking cover. She gets released tomorrow for a cruise into work. This weekend I stripped, clayed, sealed and waxed my new Veloster N. My wife thought I was nuts. I showed her my clay bar. All this crap from sitting on the dock to be shipped to the dealer. Now my "N" looks good.
I did this to my then new 2014 Caspian black ultimate coupe almost immediately after i brought it home. Manufactured 1/14, purchaced 7/14, the paint looked so bad i actually got the dealer to take a bit off. When i went back to get my green slip the salesman couldn't believe the difference. 😁
 

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I have my Genny under a Coverking cover. She gets released tomorrow for a cruise into work. This weekend I stripped, clayed, sealed and waxed my new Veloster N. My wife thought I was nuts. I showed her my clay bar. All this crap from sitting on the dock to be shipped to the dealer. Now my "N" looks good.
As you were clay bar ing her you should have used some medium body solvent,.............and then ceramic'd her.
 

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I can't keep myself revisiting this post.
It's absolutely incredible seeing that G25-660. Incredible work my friend.
Everything looks clean. I really hope you a blast ripping it when you finalize everything.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
I'll be sure to post some updates once tune day is here.
 

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...4, 3, 2, 1
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BK2 light swap onto my sons BK1
 

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Advenio Pariter
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I still have a fair amount of Griot's product left. I use their sealant and poly wax after the prep. The results easily rival ceramic coating. When I am done my cars look very wet and shiny. Of course, it does not last as long, though I get nearly a year out of this process. I like detailing. When my product runs-out, I may take the plunge to the Griot's ceramic coating. Seems to have gotten good reviews.
 

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IG: jasonlikedthis
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Washed the car since I got these today...................

 

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Finally got around to getting rid of the open differential for v6 rspec diff.
Coming from 3.9 final drive to 3.5, very noticeable difference in highway cruising rpm, and I can finally accelerate from a stop while turning without the depressing 1 wheel peel.
Was a pretty easy swap, but I accidentally tore a CV boot...
 

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Are those R1's big brake kit with a Mando sticker on them ?
I see you went with the two piece hat, why didnt you use the floating ?
 

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IAT's are measured in the airbox, so the spacer won't do much for suggested IATs (read by the sensor). You'll need to do what I did and put the IAT sensor in the manifold or behind the TB.

I did not test before the spacer, but I did test after and saw a significant difference between AAT (outside temps) and IAT's, upwards or 40* after only a few seconds of sitting idle and while cruising, still between 20*-30*. I imagine without the spacer it would have been a little higher.

Add the spacer and heat shield the bottom of the manifold (See my other threads) and you'll be better off.

Here is the issue though. I've tested about every setup I can think of and it seems that shaving and relocating the IAT sensor to the top of the air box, adding heat shield to the air box (or your intake) and the manifold will yield best results.

I moved the IAT sensor to the front of the snorkel and proved that you get the same temp air from stock setup as you do with a true CAI in the fender, but the car doesn't like that. Due to the heat on the manifold, it'll add too much timing and you'll start to see KR under load.

Your car will thank you for adding the spacer and the heat shielding, but on an N/A car, I wouldn't worry about the SUGGESTED intake temps (temps from the sensor) as much as the ACTUAL temps going into the cylinders.
Relocating the IAT further up stream makes sense. Question, why do manufacturers put it as close as possible to the air filter ? Jeggs sells TB for various vehicles, in an article I read by them they said it's very important for the IAT sensor to be near the filter? Doesn't make sense to me though
 

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Got the car dynoed.
287.8 hp
260.4 tq
Still waiting on the stage 1 intakes from 3point8.
Then headed back to see before and after.
Looks like the bk1 intake adapted to fit the bk2 was worth 10 whp.
 

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So car didn't get tuned today after a few issues were noted. Main issues were:
1. MAP Sensor 1 was acting up and not matching expected boost pressures. I was recommended to replace it, which luckily I had another OEM replacement but it was at home. Will check it over tomorrow.
2. Tuner attached a fuel pressure gauge to confirm it was at 85psi and found it was stuck at a static 30psi. Pretty sure the stock BK2 should be around 85psi from what I've read around the forums?

So without fuel delivery and working map sensor, the tune date was moved to September 18th.

Pretty happy with the thoroughness of National Speed though. They spent a good amount of time making sure all things were tied down, and called out and fixed a vacuum leak before moving on. Despite not getting tuned, it definitely ran better on the way home 😅
 
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Okay did something I should have done ages ago. Downloaded the 2013 Service Guide from Snoopy's Google Drive and converted it to be searchable (now 540MB PDF lol)

Confirmed Fuel Pressure Regulator should be 579 kpa or 83.9psi. So definitely have a problem since I was only seeing 30 psi.


MAP sensor 1 in the haltech does not look to have been mapped correctly. With the engine off it reads -2.5 psi and then goes to -8 to -11 psi under idle/load. Something tells me the BK1 MAP sensor is different than the BK2 but haven't confirmed. These are the default Haltech plug-in-play profile so I find this table weird, but know it was designed for the Theta1. Additionally I get the same results with a second MAP sensor I got from a different genesis intake manifold. Would love if someone had input on this and might make another thread as I had been wanting to go over the build for a while now.


Service manual confirms the table is wrong, or at least shows what should be the pressure at .5v and 4.5v.
 

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Finally got my differential brace installed. What a pain to install, glad I paid my local shop. Even with tools and a lift the bushings didn't want to come out or go in. Several hours later the problem bushing was in, the fronts weren't too bad.

76369
 
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