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Mackin' Cheez
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, sorry if this has been brought up before, but my search didn't really answer my question.

What I want to know is, approximately where on the factory oil temp gauge is 170*? It's been cold the past few mornings and my oil temp gauge is not quite getting halfway between the 150 mark and the next mark. I've been taking it easy on my new Genesis, so I don't know if I'm getting full boost at that temperature. It's also just good to know. Maybe I'll mark the 170* spot with a little piece of tape or something, just for reference. I have the Torque App on my Android, would that tell me a precise oil temperature?

Off topic, I get the impression Hyundai was VERY conservative on the tune with these cars. The rate and speed at which carbon is left on the tailpipes tell same they're tuned really fat, and the boost cut below 170* would also tell me it's really a safe tune. Seems to be plenty of room for airflow mods, without necessitating a tune.
 

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Hi all, sorry if this has been brought up before, but my search didn't really answer my question.

What I want to know is, approximately where on the factory oil temp gauge is 170*? It's been cold the past few mornings and my oil temp gauge is not quite getting halfway between the 150 mark and the next mark. I've been taking it easy on my new Genesis, so I don't know if I'm getting full boost at that temperature. It's also just good to know. Maybe I'll mark the 170* spot with a little piece of tape or something, just for reference. I have the Torque App on my Android, would that tell me a precise oil temperature?

Off topic, I get the impression Hyundai was VERY conservative on the tune with these cars. The rate and speed at which carbon is left on the tailpipes tell same they're tuned really fat, and the boost cut below 170* would also tell me it's really a safe tune. Seems to be plenty of room for airflow mods, without necessitating a tune.
I tend to question the accuracy of the OEM gauges, but the next hash mark on the gauge above 150 would be 187.5. Therefore, halfway between that and the 150 would be 168.75 degrees.

To answer your question you'd have to be just slightly (not a perceptible amount, especially wher the gauge is in relation to the driver's eye) over half way to the next blank hash mark above 150.

For what it's worth, Mine seems to start pegging the boost gauge on acceleration at just a hair above the 150 degree mark.
 

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Yeah full boost is at 160 on these cars...Takes a good 10 or 15 min of driving to get them warm. As for taking it easy there is no reason to we arent driving a 1975 s*** mobile. And yeah the stock tune on these cars is rather poop, but sfr tune lowers your time to get full boost and from what every one says makes it feel like a new car more then likely worth the couple hundred bucks. O and yeah this aint an Subaru were you have to get a tune done for every F****** mod you do lol. I got turbo back exhaust, moded intake, and blow off still running rich as all hell.
 

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Mackin' Cheez
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys!!
Bmore, good to know!! I plan on a CAI and Catback, and possibly a tune. It's good to know you don't need to tun for every airflow mod. I'd rather be rich than lean. I had 2 turbo Subarus, so I got quite familiar with Cobb (GREAT company, btw) and their Accessport. Fortunately, I was friends with a guy who owned a shop that specialized in turbo Subies.
 

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weird, mine doesnt get full boost untill past the hash mark after 150---so i'm guessing 170+
 

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...+.....+...+..+.++
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weird, mine doesnt get full boost untill past the hash mark after 150---so i'm guessing 170+
Same here. Less than a month until I get my car tuned, won't have to worry about this anymore.
 

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Yeah, im a .5 tuned. Kinda sucks...I have to beat the crap out of it to get full boost...I drive mostly highway. I hate the fact that the oil temp cools down and I cant get full boost after that.
 

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Makes me hate my car.

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Its only to protect your engine its more of a good thing then bad...It like saying you get out of bed in the morning and just start full out sprinting lol sure you could do it but eventually you'll get F***** up like your motor would IF you put 20 lb's of boost right to a cold block...10-15 min warm up isnt bad at all to me seeing every were I drive is bout 30min+ away. (I live in the sticks)
 

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I drive 90 miles every day to work. Unless its 60f or hotter I won't get power. Its just disappointing. I've gone through a talon, wrx, sti. Never an issue. I hate the restrictions. I can't wait for the sfr 1.0

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2013 black 6 speed 2.0t
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I tend to question the accuracy of the OEM gauges, but the next hash mark on the gauge above 150 would be 187.5. Therefore, halfway between that and the 150 would be 168.75 degrees.

To answer your question you'd have to be just slightly (not a perceptible amount, especially wher the gauge is in relation to the driver's eye) over half way to the next blank hash mark above 150.

For what it's worth, Mine seems to start pegging the boost gauge on acceleration at just a hair above the 150 degree mark.
Wow finally another person that knows how to read the Gage correct. This is accurate the line past 150 is 187.5 and the cars do not boost full until it is slightly past this line . That means the car has full boost at around 190 where as many people are mistakenly calling this line 160. I have my doubt that any 2013 gc is boosting full at 160 maybe if they went and got the factory ecu upgrade for the cold weather performance. Maybe someone has gotten that and can enlighten us
 

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Wow finally another person that knows how to read the Gage correct. This is accurate the line past 150 is 187.5 and the cars do not boost full until it is slightly past this line . That means the car has full boost at around 190 where as many people are mistakenly calling this line 160. I have my doubt that any 2013 gc is boosting full at 160 maybe if they went and got the factory ecu upgrade for the cold weather performance. Maybe someone has gotten that and can enlighten us
Also if you run a after market boost gauge or torque I have seen full boost 19-21psi peak at somewhere around 190 oil temp.

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I'd rather do it myself
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How's the accuracy of the OEM coolant temp gage? The <'13s are a joke. Has anyone actually compare the true oil temp to the factory gage?
 

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How's the accuracy of the OEM coolant temp gage? The <'13s are a joke. Has anyone actually compare the true oil temp to the factory gage?
:rofl:
you say this "The <'13s are a joke."

then ask this "Has anyone actually compare the true oil temp to the factory gage?"
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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I fail to see the humor. Have you actually compared the factory coolant gage to an aftermarket?

I can't imagine Hyundai making their factory oil temp any better than the factory coolant temp.

Most gages that don't have specific tic marks for accuracy and leave it up to the driver to try and figure it out. They are just fancy idiot lights.
 

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I fail to see the humor. Have you actually compared the factory coolant gage to an aftermarket?

I can't imagine Hyundai making their factory oil temp any better than the factory coolant temp.

Most gages that don't have specific tic marks for accuracy and leave it up to the driver to try and figure it out. They are just fancy idiot lights.
the same sensor used to get those readings, are used for inputs for the ECU's operating parameters.

for those that have had "overheating issues" and blame the it on the so called "craptastic" gauge/sensors, that was posted a long while ago, they didn't bother to check actual operation temp and grasp the concept on how the coolant system deals with pressure.

water boils at a higher temp, when there is pressure. IIRC temp is raised 2*F for every PSI. The radiator cap is a pressure valve, thats why there is a line from that area going to the overflow.
If the cap's valve isn't working, the coolant will boil at normal operating temps.

EDIT: "within" the range of it's normal operating temp.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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Disconnect the fan power, connect an OBDII reader to the car and watch the coolant temps as the car warms up. It's accurate until 160F. Then barely moves clear up to 220F.

May be the same sensor but the logic between it and the gage is way different.

Another thing I don't like is the ECU will only output temp numbers in whole 1*C numbers. On an OBDII reader you will see it tic up and down those 1* but looking at the factory gage it takes at least 20* in the normal operating range to see a change.
 
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