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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, before anyone says anything yes, I have searched the site, I've searched all over google.
I have a tick in my engine that you are able to hear pretty well, even from outside the car when the hood is shut. It is not a rod knock or anything bad, it sounds like my old Scion's engine. Would this be "injector tick"? (2013 Premium 2.0T)

After reading around I've seen that a lot of people have said the same thing and that it is normal. It just makes the car sound cheap you know?
I've also read that if you switch to synthetic it may make it more quiet. I've never had a synthetic oil change, is it worth it? I understand it goes longer (what, about 6k-7500 miles before change?), and I've also read my fair share of "it's not good for your engine" and I'm not sure how much I believe that.

Should I get a synthetic blend? Will that work well and cost less? Also, I have the 2.0T so is the synthetic better for a turbo engine? I'm going to start filling up with premium after this dealer fill-up runs out, will that help my case at all (besides MPG and performance)?

I've read around that 5w30 is pretty good and that's what I'm getting a good feeling about. I've also read that Mobil 1 or Royal Purple are very common ones.
Should I be getting oil changes at my Hyundai dealer from now on? (Just got the car haven't gotten oil change yet) I've read that you should use the Hyundai oil filter otherwise you might get a weird noise or two lol.

Anyone that wants to throw their opinions or recommendations on here? Thanks
 

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You should use nothing but full synthetic. The ticking you're hearing is definitely injector ticking. Not much you can do honestly, that's how these injectors sound for all these cars. I had the same complaint, but I got used to it. Yes, you must use an OEM oil filter or you risk harming your engine. You can change your oil up to 7k miles, but for me I change it every 5k.
 

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Ah, the old oil debate, what a can of worms, you know what they say about opinions right? Anyway I currently own 5 daily driven vehicles from 1996 with 244,000 miles to 2017 with 4000. I do all my own work with the rare exception of a warrantee item here and there. I use Mobil 1 full synthetic from Wal Mart or Cosco in 5W30 in all and for my 2014 Genesis coupe 3.8 auto ultimate I get the Mahle OX 351D oil filter online for between 3 and 5 dollars a filter. This is the same brand and part number Hyundai puts in their box and sells for between 10 and 15 dollars. I also have several recipts from Hyundai oil filter purchaces, just in case they were ever needed, and I change all my vehicles oil well within the recomended mileage/time intervil, whichever comes first. I have never had a oil or internal engine failure. FWIW.
 

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Injector tick is easy to identify. Either pull one of the connectors off and see if the rhythm changes or use some sort of sold object, such as a wooden handle, to press against the injector and the other end your ear (use like a stethoscope) to hear the ticks.
 

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Any 2.0T genesis engine should have a minimum of a 5w40 synthetic...............for protection in high boost situations, and under the extreme heat of the turbo. Using a 5w30 to get that magical 0.5MPG, is just asking for future wear problems, and I bet those repairs will far exceed the nickles you saved on gas to begin with.

In fact any turbo engine NOT using a 40w+ oil is asking for problems, and just waiting for a bang followed by smoke.

As to which oil is best................Pick the best oil you can afford that meets minimum spec of GL4 or GL5 and 5w40. You will indeed be purchasing a synthetic oil as 5w40 is ONLY available in synthetic.

Just my 2 cents
Duro
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Any 2.0T genesis engine should have a minimum of a 5w40 synthetic...............for protection in high boost situations, and under the extreme heat of the turbo. Using a 5w30 to get that magical 0.5MPG, is just asking for future wear problems, and I bet those repairs will far exceed the nickles you saved on gas to begin with.

In fact any turbo engine NOT using a 40w+ oil is asking for problems, and just waiting for a bang followed by smoke.

As to which oil is best................Pick the best oil you can afford that meets minimum spec of GL4 or GL5 and 5w40. You will indeed be purchasing a synthetic oil as 5w40 is ONLY available in synthetic.

Just my 2 cents
Duro
I have owned the car for about a week now and have only put about 500 miles on it. I'm not sure what oil the owner before used (car from Florida) but according the CARFAX it's been a while since the car has gotten a documented oil change. I'm taking it into the Hyundai dealership tomorrow but I think a synthetic oil change there is like $60! I've never changed my oil myself (although seems very easy) but I'd rather have someone do it for now. So that is what I should ask for? 5W-40? Doesn't my 2.0T require 5.7 quarts of oil or am I wrong?
Thanks for the response
 

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Duro5341 is pretty much on the money here. I would consider synthetic oil a must for any car with a turbocharged engine. Turbo engines abuse their oil much more severely than non-turbo engines. A generic synthetic oil will resist breakdown due to heat much better than even a very expensive non-synthetic oil. People will give you all sorts of recommendations, but there honestly isn't much difference between mass-market synthetic oils. The difference between, say, Mobil 1 synthetic and Pennzoil Ultra synthetic is so small that you'll never be able to tell.

Red Raspberry has the right idea. Just go to Wal Mart and buy the cheapest high-quality synthetic you can find. It will usually be Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Ultra. Both are great quality motor oils capable of a 10,000 mile service interval. If you ask me, most "super premium" brands like Royal Purple aren't meaningfully better than something like Pennzoil Ultra since they use very similar base stocks. The only way to get a drastically better oil than that is to get a fully ester-based synthetic which is very expensive and highly uncommon. Only tiny, boutique manufacturers like Neo Synthetics produce those kinds of lubricants and they just don't make financial sense for most people.

All that said, dollars to donuts, your local Hyundai dealer will either refuse to use 5w-40 in your car because it isn't the factory default fluid or they won't have 5w-40 in stock at all. You're better off finding a good, local, independent mechanic to take care of maintenance tasks like that if you don't want to do them yourself.
 

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I have owned the car for about a week now and have only put about 500 miles on it. I'm not sure what oil the owner before used (car from Florida) but according the CARFAX it's been a while since the car has gotten a documented oil change. I'm taking it into the Hyundai dealership tomorrow but I think a synthetic oil change there is like $60! I've never changed my oil myself (although seems very easy) but I'd rather have someone do it for now. So that is what I should ask for? 5W-40? Doesn't my 2.0T require 5.7 quarts of oil or am I wrong?
Thanks for the response
I think it's closer to ~5.2 liters, which is around ~5.7qts................Correct.

Like I said, I won't get into the great oil debate.....................Just buy the best quality 5w40 your wallet will bear, and a OEM filter if your going to do it yourself.

If the dealer gives you a hard time because it says 5w30 on the oil cap, open the manual and show him is says 5w30 for maximum fuel economy OR 5w40 for maximum performance.

If you buy a vacuum extractor, you can suck it out of the dip stick just as fast as draining it, and get every last drop. Reach under the car, spin off the old filter, wipe, and install the new one(after you prime it). I've tested the theory on a hoist, and providing you regularly change your oil with synthetic oil you won't be worried about sludge as the synthetic won't let it start to begin with.

I've been doing my regular oil changes like this for over the last 18 years on all my engines, and in fact Merc's have been doing it this way for decades. As long as your dipstick allows you to reach the bottom of the oil pan and get every last drop, it works beautifully. Some cars design don't allow it, all of mine do.

The key to doing it this way is regular oil changes, and synthetic oil. If the sludge is never allowed to start it won't accumulate.

Just my 2 cents
Duro
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
All that said, dollars to donuts, your local Hyundai dealer will either refuse to use 5w-40 in your car because it isn't the factory default fluid or they won't have 5w-40 in stock at all. You're better off finding a good, local, independent mechanic to take care of maintenance tasks like that if you don't want to do them yourself.
I'm about to go into the Hyundai dealer, I actually called them an hour ago and they said they did have 5W-40 lol! so let's see how it goes.
Thanks again for everyones responses.
 

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I do the oil changes at the dealer. No problem, except make sure they don't overfill. They like to put the full amount regardless of what comes out of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
UPDATE: whoever I spoke to on the phone at the dealership was obviously stupid and said that they had 5W-40 synthetic there when they didn't. When I asked in person they said their synthetic was 5W20 so I went and bought my own 5W40! They charged me $15 (with tax) for the labor and filter. Very easy and car seems to be running more quiet after the oil change.
 

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Us old Turbo Mopar guys have been using Synthetic Oil since the beginning back in the 80's. The Turbo II, III and IV actually came with a plaque on the radiator saying to only use Mobil 1. Using anything but Full Synthetic Oil in a turbo engine is asking for an early turbo failure. Turbo's run at ridiculously high RPM's. You have been reading a lot of BS and been told a lot of BS. Go out and buy top tier full synthetic and change it yourself. The filter is right behind the radiator support and the draing plug is right behind it.
BTW, if you think the injector ticking is loud, you gotta hear BMW's, they really sound horrible.
 

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Duro5341 is pretty much on the money here. I would consider synthetic oil a must for any car with a turbocharged engine. Turbo engines abuse their oil much more severely than non-turbo engines. A generic synthetic oil will resist breakdown due to heat much better than even a very expensive non-synthetic oil. People will give you all sorts of recommendations, but there honestly isn't much difference between mass-market synthetic oils. The difference between, say, Mobil 1 synthetic and Pennzoil Ultra synthetic is so small that you'll never be able to tell.

Red Raspberry has the right idea. Just go to Wal Mart and buy the cheapest high-quality synthetic you can find. It will usually be Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Ultra. Both are great quality motor oils capable of a 10,000 mile service interval. If you ask me, most "super premium" brands like Royal Purple aren't meaningfully better than something like Pennzoil Ultra since they use very similar base stocks. The only way to get a drastically better oil than that is to get a fully ester-based synthetic which is very expensive and highly uncommon. Only tiny, boutique manufacturers like Neo Synthetics produce those kinds of lubricants and they just don't make financial sense for most people.

All that said, dollars to donuts, your local Hyundai dealer will either refuse to use 5w-40 in your car because it isn't the factory default fluid or they won't have 5w-40 in stock at all. You're better off finding a good, local, independent mechanic to take care of maintenance tasks like that if you don't want to do them yourself.
To take this even further, you pointed out this website in another thread, https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/ and according to the testing, the best oil for the 2.0T, based on the high temp psi due to the 2.0T he has, is going to be:

5W30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, Dexos 1 approved (109,211 psi @ 275F). The non Dexos 1 version is an older, inferior formula and tested worse, so don't buy the non dexos 1 version as walmart sometimes puts older stock on the shelves.
Available at Walmart in 5 qt Jugs @ ~$20

Second best:
Mobil 1 0w40 "FS" European Formula (106,876 psi @ 275F) ~$23 5qt jug @ Walmart
0W20 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, Dexos 1 approved (106,163 psi @ 275F) ~$20 5qt jug @ Walmart (Dexos 1 approved on the bottle is probably important like the 5w30 version, but the non dexos version doesn't seem to have been tested)

5w30 Mobil 1 is doesn't hold up well when subjected to high temps (75,861 psi @ 275F), which is also shown in UOA's with turbo engines (pretty much any turbo, not just the GC).
 
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M1 5w30 is still a better oil than most would need. I have two UOA of the same 5w30 M1 oil from my 2L gen Coupe. One after a track day and seeing 300F oil temps. Another of the same oil with 5k total miles on it two months later.

The fuel dilution was because of the leaky DW550 injectors.
 

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