Hyundai Genesis Forum banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2011 Genesis Coupe 2.0T Base

Timing chain snapped 10 months ago, got deployed and then came back to get it fixed. The Engine has been rebuilt, gas tank cleaned and added more gas. Oil filter, oil pan, etc all good. New ECU because my other one supposedly was short circuited.
Parts replaced:
All four Valves
Timing Chains and accessories
CrankShaft Position Sensor
Camshaft Sensors
ECU Sensor
ECU
Battery and a few small things.

I went to start my car and it turns over, almost wants to start but won't actually start up (fire up) I saw that the engine is getting fuel, the original spark plugs were wet and wouldn't spark so I replaced those with new ones and new Ignition coils just in case, still won't start but sounds a little higher pitched when I turn it over like it is about to start.

I have a code P0447 for EVAP Soleniod and come to find out the part won't open or close correctly. But I don't see how that would be the reason my car isn't actually starting up.

Just wondering what I might need to do next?

BTW my engine has the correct compression as well. It's just weird how it wants to start but won't.

Thanks!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,368 Posts
a gasoline engine need 3 things 2 run; fuel, air, spark

Since the 2.0 doesn't have a MAF, skip air

test fuel/spark. get a can of starting fluid/ fogger, remove the air box, and as the engine is cranking, spray some into the inlet.
If is starts to catch, then that means you have spark, and possibly no fuel or low fuel pressure.
if thats to the case, unbolt the fuel rail from the intake manifold, with the injectors still in the fuel rail.
Crank it for a split second to check if the injectors are firing. Could be and issue with the injectors getting stuck after sitting for a while, but it's very odd of all of them are stuck.
It could also be the fuel pump.

And just in case, check if the timing isn't 180* off. (common issues when rebuilding v8 engines)
set cranks to TDC and check cam gears to see if the indicator lines on the gears are in line with each other (there are indicator dots, for install the marked chain lines, and indicator lines to check position in line with the cam gears). If not rotate crank by hand to TDC again and check, do this again and check.
And again and check (total of 4 crank rotations)

EDIT: Just remembered, also check your fuses.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
a gasoline engine need 3 things 2 run; fuel, air, spark

Since the 2.0 doesn't have a MAF, skip air

test fuel/spark. get a can of starting fluid/ fogger, remove the air box, and as the engine is cranking, spray some into the inlet.
If is starts to catch, then that means you have spark, and possibly no fuel or low fuel pressure.
if thats to the case, unbolt the fuel rail from the intake manifold, with the injectors still in the fuel rail.
Crank it for a split second to check if the injectors are firing. Could be and issue with the injectors getting stuck after sitting for a while, but it's very odd of all of them are stuck.
It could also be the fuel pump.

And just in case, check if the timing isn't 180* off. (common issues when rebuilding v8 engines)
set cranks to TDC and check cam gears to see if the indicator lines on the gears are in line with each other (there are indicator dots, for install the marked chain lines, and indicator lines to check position in line with the cam gears). If not rotate crank by hand to TDC again and check, do this again and check.
And again and check (total of 4 crank rotations)

EDIT: Just remembered, also check your fuses.
I'll give those a try, the timing is fine though. I'll let you know if anything works out. Thank you!
 

·
I'd rather do it myself
Joined
·
18,790 Posts
It might be flooded. I've had the same thing happen on a car. Floor the gas pedal while you crank. It will clear it out if it is flooded. Might take a minute of cranking.
 

·
I'd rather do it myself
Joined
·
18,790 Posts
Pinch off the evap line coming up from the gas tank and try to start. Maybe the valve is stuck open leaking air.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
The problem is probably the ecu. The ecu's on these cars are coded to your ignition, which differs between models/regions. On the back of the ecu there should be a sticker with a letter and numbers i.e. s35 or s49. If that number doesn't match what was on the previous ecu, it won't work
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,368 Posts
The problem is probably the ecu. The ecu's on these cars are coded to your ignition, which differs between models/regions. On the back of the ecu there should be a sticker with a letter and numbers i.e. s35 or s49. If that number doesn't match what was on the previous ecu, it won't work
I forgot about that.

If the car is a canada spec, and/or keyless start, the ecu has to be synced/coded with the BCM and immobilizer module.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
The problem is probably the ecu. The ecu's on these cars are coded to your ignition, which differs between models/regions. On the back of the ecu there should be a sticker with a letter and numbers i.e. s35 or s49. If that number doesn't match what was on the previous ecu, it won't work
Well I tried my old ECU and problem still happening. Does it need to be reprogrammed?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,368 Posts
It was stuck shut. I got a new one today.
Is yours a turn key or keyless start?

If it's turn key, it could be that the 2nd ecu is from a car with keyless start.

Have you pulled codes? I would clear codes on both ecu and try, then pull codes again and see what flags.
Any issues with ecu not matching immobilizer will flag a code.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Is yours a turn key or keyless start?

If it's turn key, it could be that the 2nd ecu is from a car with keyless start.

Have you pulled codes? I would clear codes on both ecu and try, then pull codes again and see what flags.
Any issues with ecu not matching immobilizer will flag a code.
It's key start. So now that I've replaced the evap solenoid it wants to start even more, it's catching a little but dying. I'm assuming the injectors are clogged since it hasn't started in over a year. I don't have any codes at this time either.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,368 Posts
if it's catching but dying. get a spray can of starting fluid, remove air box, and have someone try starting it.
spray a little in the inlet and pulse spray it.
It should start using the starting fluid.

How much gas in the tank?

So far if I'm understanding
tries to catch when cranking
car has been sitting for aprox a year

evap solenoid stuck/failing
so it could be the injectors or the fuel pump....
OR just that there isn't enough gas in the tank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
if it's catching but dying. get a spray can of starting fluid, remove air box, and have someone try starting it.
spray a little in the inlet and pulse spray it.
It should start using the starting fluid.

How much gas in the tank?

So far if I'm understanding
tries to catch when cranking
car has been sitting for aprox a year

evap solenoid stuck/failing
so it could be the injectors or the fuel pump....
OR just that there isn't enough gas in the tank.
It's between half a tank and empty.
I'm spraying starting fluid but still dying.
I was thinking it's either the pump or injectors.
Shits not cheap lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Yeah I pretty much gave up at this point, replaced the fuel pump, filter, and a few other things. The fuses came out good. Not gonna lie I am afraid that the timing may not be timed right, from what the mechanic said was that it was good. I am going to take it apart myself and make sure it's not off.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,368 Posts
Yeah I pretty much gave up at this point, replaced the fuel pump, filter, and a few other things. The fuses came out good. Not gonna lie I am afraid that the timing may not be timed right, from what the mechanic said was that it was good. I am going to take it apart myself and make sure it's not off.
You don't have to take it completely apart.

Take off valve cover
on the cam gears, there is a dot and a line on each gear
ignore the dots, as they are used to align the gears with the chain. What you want, is to align the gears with the crank.

rotate crank until DTC from looking at crank pulley and front engine cover markings.
look at "CAM" gears and see where the lines are located. They should be inline.
What I mean, is exhaust cam gear line should be at 3 o'clock
intake gear line at 9 o'clock

If they aren't rotate crank 1 whole time until DTC again, then look at cam gears.
do this a total of 4 times, until the cam gear lines line up. If they don't line up, then valve timing is not correct.

I would go through and make sure all the connectors are seated correctly, check grounds, and make sure wires aren't pinched somewhere.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
You don't have to take it completely apart.

Take off valve cover
on the cam gears, there is a dot and a line on each gear
ignore the dots, as they are used to align the gears with the chain. What you want, is to align the gears with the crank.

rotate crank until DTC from looking at crank pulley and front engine cover markings.
look at "CAM" gears and see where the lines are located. They should be inline.
What I mean, is exhaust cam gear line should be at 3 o'clock
intake gear line at 9 o'clock

If they aren't rotate crank 1 whole time until DTC again, then look at cam gears.
do this a total of 4 times, until the cam gear lines line up. If they don't line up, then valve timing is not correct.

I would go through and make sure all the connectors are seated correctly, check grounds, and make sure wires aren't pinched somewhere.
Thank you, I will get on that. Hoping it works out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
You don't have to take it completely apart.

Take off valve cover
on the cam gears, there is a dot and a line on each gear
ignore the dots, as they are used to align the gears with the chain. What you want, is to align the gears with the crank.

rotate crank until DTC from looking at crank pulley and front engine cover markings.
look at "CAM" gears and see where the lines are located. They should be inline.
What I mean, is exhaust cam gear line should be at 3 o'clock
intake gear line at 9 o'clock

If they aren't rotate crank 1 whole time until DTC again, then look at cam gears.
do this a total of 4 times, until the cam gear lines line up. If they don't line up, then valve timing is not correct.

I would go through and make sure all the connectors are seated correctly, check grounds, and make sure wires aren't pinched somewhere.
This is what I'm looking at, how do I turn this lol.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,368 Posts
This is what I'm looking at, how do I turn this lol.
use a socket and long ratchet to turn the bolt holding the crank pulley, clockwise.

EDIT: 4:00 shows how to remove the chain. (Not what you need right now, but if it's not correct, you will need to set the chain correctly)
5:40 shows the timing marks I was talking about.

Video is for a Mitsubish 4B11 (Lancer, not Evo) but are virtually the same as the 2.0T in terms of replacing things.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
use a socket and long ratchet to turn the bolt holding the crank pulley, clockwise.

EDIT: 4:00 shows how to remove the chain. (Not what you need right now, but if it's not correct, you will need to set the chain correctly)
5:40 shows the timing marks I was talking about.

Video is for a Mitsubish 4B11 (Lancer, not Evo) but are virtually the same as the 2.0T in terms of replacing things.

Well come to find out it was not timed correctly by the mechanic. Compression, valves and what not are all still good thank god. Having it timed this 4th of July weekend.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top