Jack Stand - Hyundai Genesis Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 10-02-2012 Thread Starter
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Type of jack to buy.

Didn't know if this should go in this section or not. Mods feel free to move if needed.

My husband seems to be lifting his car every week for a different reason. Last time he was installing coilovers. When he was lowering the car back down the passenger side jack lift point started bending. Has anyone else had this happen to them?

We are going to buy a low profile jack. He has been using the scissor jack instead of the one he has already because it won't fit under the car now. I am wondering what you guys are using? I need something that isn't going to bend the piece underneath. The scissor jack fits and doesn't slide around so won't mess anything up. But that takes forever. All the jack's I've seen have the round piece on top that it slides around on and will make it bend.

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Last edited by ramona; 10-02-2012 at 03:12 PM.
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post #2 of 21 Old 10-02-2012
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My jack finally failed last week trying to lift my friend's massive truck and I did a lot of research on jacks. To make a long story short... don't waste your money on any of the jacks from Harbor Freight, Sears, Pep Boys, etc. because they're all cheap crap that doesn't last and if you bother to read the reviews you'll see there are a lot of unhappy customers.

Anyway, after doing a lot of research, I found one that everyone raves about on all different kinds of car and truck message boards called the Arcan XL35R. In fact, a lot of professionals use them, guys who use them every day. They are sold at Costco for $105 and the good thing about buying anything at Costco is that it is guaranteed for life, they'll either replace it or give you a full refund, even if it's ten or more years from now. They just changed the name from XL35R to XL325R and my Costco had the newer XL325R version. It's rated at 3.25 tons.

Besides being basically the only affordable jack that is worth a crap, it also goes down to 3.5" for lowered cars (most go down to 5.5") and it also goes higher than most for trucks/SUVs. There are other jacks that go low, but only the round jack-plate is low and then it curves back up... but the Arcan has the 3.5" height for almost the full length of the jack, almost back to the handle, so that you can extend it further under your lowered car, to reach the framerail.

There are a few Costco stores in my area, I called one and gave them the Costco item #300930 and they told me which stores had them in stock.

Best Floor Jack Ever, Arcan XL35R from Costco


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Last edited by MotoGreg; 10-02-2012 at 06:33 PM.
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post #3 of 21 Old 10-03-2012
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For the front, don't jack on the pinch weld. That's only for the scissor jack in emergencies. For regular jacking, use the frame instead. It's a few inches further in from the pinch weld. Use a point just after the frame curves down and fattens out.

For the rear, you could try jacking on the differential housing.

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post #4 of 21 Old 10-03-2012
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I have the arcan and it's a great jack. It's just really damn heavy at 100lbs since it's all steel construction.

I jack up the car at central points. Front subframe cross member (right before the oil pan) and rear subframe cross member (right before the diff).

Be careful jacking up the entire rear at one time since there's nothing holding the front wheels (both trans and parking brake hold the rear) so you'll need to chalk the front tires before lifting the rear (you should be chalking the tires before lifting anyways)


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post #5 of 21 Old 10-03-2012
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I've been using the Harbor Freight aluminum low profile jack for quite a few years. The only thing that has failed on it is one of the wheels and that was my fault. I was jacking up from the side when the car was not on a level surface. When the car moved a bit the jack flipped over and snapped off the wheel.

It's a nice low profile jack that doesn't weigh very much and can be easily put in the trunk when needed. But for geater distance raising it I have a 3.5 ton Craftsman SUV/Pickup jack. It will raise the car over 24".

Jack stands are a must.

When you are jacking the car up be sure that either the jack or the car is moving. Otherwise you will pull the jack pad off of the point of contact where you are jacking at.

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thank you for the responses!!

this morning he was on his way to work and there was a dreaded speed bump!! first one since the coilovers. He said he scraped so hes ready to go back to stock height :-(

2013 GC 2.0T R-Spec White (currently dipped grey)
BC Coilovers-Synapse bov, R2C intake, CP-e fmic-tinted windows-CF wrap on front nose-8000K low beam kit DD and switchbacks. Whole car dipped by Dipfanatic with blaze yellow wheels


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2012 GC 2.0T R-Spec 2005 Hyundai Tiburon 1995 Ford Probe 1996 Camaro 2005 Nissan Sentra Spec V 1981 Mazda RX 7 1996 Ford Probe
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post #7 of 21 Old 10-03-2012
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Tell him he's a pansy.

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-Turbo kit from... TurboKits!
-Injen exhaust
-BC Coils
-Bronze Varrstoen 2.2.2's
-Hankook V12's

Quote:
Originally Posted by JewishThunder View Post
It's not a light switch situation of retarded or not. It's a level based question. Like was he code red butt ****ing a couch cushion retarded? Or just like licking strangers knees disabled. Maybe a touch of finger blasting his cat listening to dragonforce and eating an ice cream cone too fast.
Quote:
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This is why animal cloning is so easy, they have no soul.
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post #8 of 21 Old 10-03-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowcow View Post
I have the arcan and it's a great jack. It's just really damn heavy at 100lbs since it's all steel construction.

I jack up the car at central points. Front subframe cross member (right before the oil pan) and rear subframe cross member (right before the diff).

Be careful jacking up the entire rear at one time since there's nothing holding the front wheels (both trans and parking brake hold the rear) so you'll need to chalk the front tires before lifting the rear (you should be chalking the tires before lifting anyways)


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Great advice!

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Does the saddle come out? and if so, what size is the hole?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13_gc_pb View Post
Does the saddle come out? and if so, what size is the hole?
The arcan? I don't think it does as I've tried since I have a unibody adapter so I can jack at the pinch weld but never figured out how to remove the existing one.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowcow View Post
The arcan? I don't think it does as I've tried since I have a unibody adapter so I can jack at the pinch weld but never figured out how to remove the existing one.


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Thanks, then its useless to me, appreciate the feedback

-----------------------------------------------
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VIP K Front Emblem
Debadged Rear
M&S Carat Lip Spoiler
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post #12 of 21 Old 10-07-2012
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Anyone have some pics of ideal jack points?
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post #13 of 21 Old 10-07-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramona View Post
Didn't know if this should go in this section or not. Mods feel free to move if needed.

My husband seems to be lifting his car every week for a different reason. Last time he was installing coilovers. When he was lowering the car back down the passenger side jack lift point started bending. Has anyone else had this happen to them?

We are going to buy a low profile jack. He has been using the scissor jack instead of the one he has already because it won't fit under the car now. I am wondering what you guys are using? I need something that isn't going to bend the piece underneath. The scissor jack fits and doesn't slide around so won't mess anything up. But that takes forever. All the jack's I've seen have the round piece on top that it slides around on and will make it bend.
I had a similar thing happen to me. I would love to see the ideal jacking points as well.

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If you are using a floor jack in the back I use the differential to jack and set the stands on the inside arm bushings.

In the front I use the subframe cross piece in front of the engine. This needs to have the plastic shield take off first. And use a block of wood as the jack will deform the metal. You can also jack from the sides using the floor rails but these too will deform unless you use some wood to spread out the load.

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post #15 of 21 Old 10-26-2012
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This jack isnt on the costco website.

Engine
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post #16 of 21 Old 10-26-2012
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Quote:
This jack isnt on the costco website
No it isn't. I don't believe they sell them online due to the weight. I believe it is an in-store only item. There are several Costco stores in my area, and some have it and some don't.

I called my local store and gave them the item number, and the guy said they don't have it, but he told me the closest store that did, and I went there to buy one. If you want to call your local store to inquire about it just ask about Costco item number 300930.

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post #18 of 21 Old 12-05-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramona View Post
thank you for the responses!!

this morning he was on his way to work and there was a dreaded speed bump!! first one since the coilovers. He said he scraped so hes ready to go back to stock height :-(
tell brian i said he's a vagina! he should see my exhaust LOL its scraped up soooooo badly lol

scraping builds character


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post #19 of 21 Old 01-06-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonG View Post
Tell him he's a pansy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2013TrackSpec View Post
Great advice!
Puhaha! I know 2013TrackSpec was replying to someone else, but this is the order I read it. I am WAAAAY too easily entertained as you can tell from my sig.

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post #20 of 21 Old 01-06-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebae951 View Post
Puhaha! I know 2013TrackSpec was replying to someone else, but this is the order I read it. I am WAAAAY too easily entertained as you can tell from my sig.
Good Work.

Engine
- UR Light Weight Pulley
- R2C SRI/P2R Spacer+Gasket
- Maxbore Bored TB+CC
- GS Spacer/PnP+CC Manifold
- ARK CC Headers/DP/Custom TPBE
- AEM V2 Meth Kit
- BTR Custom Meth Tune
- Mishimoto Oil Cooler
Exterior
- Boostec CF Front Lip
- NRG Canard
- M&S Side Splitter
- ViS CF Rear Diffuser
- ARK C-FX CF Grill
- ViS CF Fog Bezel
Chassis
- VOLK TE37SL/Hankook
- R1/StopTech/SS Lines/Dot 4
- PSM Pro Coilover
- Luxon Strut Bar
- UR 4pt Rear Strut Bar
- SFR Rigid Collar Kit
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