[MZ777]

Here I am back again with the same damn problem - it's getting cold outside and as I said earlier - turboxs tune wasn't really the fix to it, LO speed is ON all the time. We're in 30*s right now, so yesterday I decided to just unplug the fan again just like I did last year but this time it caused a coolant leak through coolant hoses right where the clamps are. One was through the upper hose right at the radiator and another one at the thermostat housing. I guess the pressure got pretty high and I need to check my radiator cap... It's the one that CSF came with, so not sure if it's gone bad already (2 years since the install)...

Anyway, I still feel skeptical about Derale and all other controllers mainly due to being made in China and so-so quality, some people have great luck with them, some not. So, I want to go with a Canadian product HPC:

The kit comes with a 3/8" sensor but they are willing to replace it with 1/8 NPT for $5 more. I finally decided to take the risk by drilling and tapping, so I will have to pick up either 11/32 drill bit with a reamer or a Q drill bit; not sure sure if there are any combos that pair the two together. The kit is not cheap but I like the idea of being able to control the temperature along with the fact that this uses the actual sensor rather than a probe.

The kit manual is here - http://www.hpcontrols.ca/media/files/HPC Radiator Fan Controller 102001.pdf and I am thinking about following this diagram:

If you look at the manual, there are quite a few ways to make this work; however, the easiest config is above BUT I am going to skip wiring an additional relay (does not come in the kit) because we already have TWO. Just like RED, I am going to flip the LO speed and basically use HI only by activating the ground via this controller. I still have to think about though. So, this is the idea. Fixing to place my order, so I will be back once I get to it.

 

[MZ777]

Just looked at the manual again and found even more interesting diagram:

This is basically what we have, right? This would be just perfect but I would imagine that both relays would have to completely disconnected from ECU, since the controller would be doing the work.

 

[Red Raspberry]

It's crazy that the tunes do this. But as far as I know the Hi speed is not used for engine cooling by Hyundai, only to control AC pressure. This is a mistake as if you loose the lo speed fan you have no engine cooling. This may be different for the BK2.

My '08 Accent has three relays for the fans. There are two fans and one is a hi speed the other a lo speed. Hyundai uses three relays to control them.

 

[Red Raspberry]

As far as the Ford wiring, the last time I knew they still use a lo speed fan resistor for the two speeds. Only if there are two individual wired fields in the fan motor have two 12v inputs. So no that diagram from the Ford is not what we have.

On my BK1, both relays pass 12v the lo speed one goes to the resistor to drop the volts. But when the hi speed is on the lo speed relay is too, passing current to the resistor. Some sort of a fail safe I guess for the hi speed fan. FWIW I have the resistor removed.

With the control I use and only the hi speed fan, normally the lo speed fan will be on with the AC at slow vehicle speeds so their is flow over the condenser. When I idle with the AC on and the lo speed fan disabled, the compressor runs, the pressure gets too high, the hi speed fan comes on and the compressor drops out until the pressure drops, the hi speed fan shuts off. This cycle continues and it alone keeps the coolant temps down. So if the AC is on there is no call for use of the cooling fan to keep the engine temps down.

 

[MZ777]

I only saw 2 relays marked as FAN LO and FAN HI IIRC... I just need to do something here because this ridiculous folks at TXS need to get their sh!t together.

OK, if I were to keep the LO speed and use it to cool the engine, then I would need an additional relay and the controller to close the circuit for the fan to be ON on LO speed since there's voltage all the time when the car is running. So, normally opened when cold, and complete the circuit at set temp. Correct?

 

[Red Raspberry]

You could use the OE wiring for the lo speed fan but leave the OE relay out, using a new relay, jumper the 12V for 30 and the relay coil from the OE slots. Then use the controller to ground the coil on the added relay. Then jumper the relay switched power back to the OE relay power out slot. This should work for sure.

Here is the BK 1 fan wire diagram.

looking at the 3.8L 2013 wire diagram it is identical to the BK1. The fan relays are not in the same spot though. That comes from the '13 EM but don't know if it is accurate.

 

[MZ777]

What I was thinking about doing is to leave the OE relay where it is and simply cut the 86 wire under the fuse box of LO speed relay and have one end go to 87 and another to 30 on the additional relay, which would brake the circuit and stop the LO speed fan until the additional relay is powered (85 - white wire on the controller and 86 red wire on the controller (switched)). No?

 

[Red Raspberry]

You can get a relay base with pigtails on it. It would be easier to just use this and avoiding cutting wires.

https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-5-Pin-Relay-Socket/dp/B0002ZPUMG

 

[MZ777]

^ I have one of these...

So, looking at your pic

and trying to translate this:

You could use the OE wiring for the lo speed fan but leave the OE relay out, using a new relay, jumper the 12V for 30 and the relay coil from the OE slots. Then use the controller to ground the coil on the added relay. Then jumper the relay switched power back to the OE relay power out slot. This should work for sure.

I can't picture this in my head, I am very visual, gotta see it to understand. Working on a diagram; will post once done.

 

[MZ777]

I am not getting it... I can't seem to understand the relay powering part since there's an option to get the power from the OEM fuse box (which is pretty much constant due to tune) or the controller itself (the way it is designed to operate). If I just go ahead and stick to my plan by cutting the 86 wire and add additional relay to complete the circuit = no problem, I got this. But what you Red is suggesting is simply not clear, sorry.

 

[Red Raspberry]

In the picture of the OE relay base with the wire is (86) the ground for the relay coil. Connect your switch to that. The the other wires are just straight swaps.

 

[Red Raspberry]

I am not getting it... I can't seem to understand the relay powering part since there's an option to get the power from the OEM fuse box (which is pretty much constant due to tune) or the controller itself (the way it is designed to operate). If I just go ahead and stick to my plan by cutting the 86 wire and add additional relay to complete the circuit = no problem, I got this. But what you Red is suggesting is simply not clear, sorry.

OE the 12v+ power is constant with the key on to the relay 30 and 85 terminals, 85 can be jumpered from 30.

86 is the ground signal from the ECU to turn the relay on and off. This is what you want to ground with your switch.

 

[Red Raspberry]

The wire from your module to 86 must be a ground. I'm guessing they have 85 and 86 switched from what we have in the fuse box.

So using this diagram which wire is a ground, the white or green when switched on? It looks like the wire going to 86 in this drawing would be terminal 85 in the fuse box.

 

[Red Raspberry]

Your sender can be put in the aluminum pipe at the back of the head. Probably can drill and tap it without taking it off. I did with a 1/8" sender.

 

[MZ777]

The wire from your module to 86 must be a ground. I'm guessing they have 85 and 86 switched from what we have in the fuse box.

So using this diagram which wire is a ground, the white or green when switched on? It looks like the wire going to 86 in this drawing would be terminal 85 in the fuse box.

 

[MZ777]

Your sender can be put in the aluminum pipe at the back of the head. Probably can drill and tap it without taking it off. I did with a 1/8" sender.

So, no need to drain coolant and disconnect the steel pipe in order to catch the shavings? If I drill and have my shop vac ON right next to it - should be able to catch most of it.

 

[Red Raspberry]

The switched ignition feed in the diagram would be the always hot in run terminal 85 in the fuse box. Then the green and white are both grounds, just different settings.

 

[Red Raspberry]

So, no need to drain coolant and disconnect the steel pipe in order to catch the shavings? If I drill and have my shop vac ON right next to it - should be able to catch most of it.

it's cast aluminum. I think I used a vacuum when drilling and grease on the tap for catching the shavings. I put a bigger one on the passenger side end for a gauge too but that pipe is a pain to take off. The last picture is a 1/4" sender and I took the pipe off to do that.

 

[MZ777]

The switched ignition feed in the diagram would be the always hot in run terminal 85 in the fuse box. Then the green and white are both grounds, just different settings.

That is correct and the green wire from the module isn't used in my application. Having all that said, since the fan control module is providing power to an aftermarket relay, I still don't see a reason for pulling OEM relay/power from the fuse box then. If I just leave the OE relay in there cut the wire and give it ground when needed = problem solved. I apologize if I am not following....

 

[Red Raspberry]

I think your module supplies the ground signal. Other wise if 12V+ were on both 85 and 86 nothing would happen. They have 12v+ from the switched ignition.