WOW, I remember when testing the Haltech over a year ago having both of these problems, good to see y'all got it figured out!!!!

 

Adam whats up, great to see you here. BTW thanks for all the help answering my questions at the seminar!

 

+1 I had these problems and the firmware fixed it.

 

Did not fix the a/c freezing issue for me.

 

I am attending the Texas seminar in June, see ya there!

 

I bought my Haltech about 2 months ago through DST Motorsports in South Florida and we have yet to install it due to not having my turbo setup ready.. I'll be sure to pass this info/thread to my tuner for when we install it. Thanks for posting this and great idea on having this Haltech discussion thread

 

Hey Adam, great to have you here!

Me too, the A/C is still freezing.
At some point, I had some very strange thing happen: it was like 6 months ago: there was some kind of strange noise first and then like some over pressured gas was leaking from somewhere (white smoke), I had time to pop the hood but I could not tell where it was coming from and then it stopped. It happened again right after that and never again.
Now I have the feeling that my A/C only blows cold when it wants too, I can't figure out what's going on...

Another thing I mentioned on the Haltech forum and that stayed unanswered was my car knew when the gears were changing but it did not know in which gear it was. Not sure if this has been fixed or not.

Last but not least, there are plenty of people here that would love to have more info about the launch control and the flat shift

Thanks!

 

your a/c system wis over charged, running too high pressure, happend to my car when hyundai replaced my a/c compressor underwarranty the tech charged the system, and then another tech recharged/over charged, the system without first measuring the pressure in the system. So it ended up being my system was running to high pressure

 

GAH! I want one of these so bad. Stupid AT.

 

Also the latest version of the ECU software manager 1.12.5 include a throttle automatic re-calibration procedure which came in handy when my electronic throttle sensor lost its position last week.

Automatic Electronic Throttle Re-Calibration

Automatic Electronic Throttle Re-Calibration enables the user to calibrate the electronic throttle if the ECU detecs an error, without the need for a laptop computer.
Upon detection of an error with the electronic throttle the ECU will disable the throttle, trigger a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) and turn on the check engine light.
When the vehicle comes to a stop and the engine is turned off with the ignition left on, the ECU will begin the automatic re-calibration sequence.
If the error was caused by the throttle alone the ECU will automatically recalibrate the throttle, and turn off the check engine light with no user input is required.
If the error was caused by the throttle pedal of the vehicle the user will need to re-calibrate the throttle pedal by the procedure listed. See Throttle Pedal Re-calibration Procedure
If the automatic re-calibration process cannot calibrate the electronic throttle the check engine light will remain on and flash the correspondng fault code listed below.

Check engine light status for Electronic Throttle Control automatic re-calibration

Check engine light status Condition or Error
Slow flash (1s on / 1s off) Auto-calibrating 0 % pedal position. Throttle pedal position must be kept at 0% until the Fast flash of the check engine light.
Fast flash (0.5s on / 0.5s off) Auto-calibrating 100 % pedal position. Throttle Pedal position must be held at 100% until the check engine light stops flashing.
If the Auto-calibration does not measure a change in pedal position within 60 seconds then the calibration will fail and enter into an error state.
2x flash: XX __ XX __ XX __ XX__ XX Auto-calibrating throttle. The throttle will try to calibrate 5 times before failing. Note this sequence may not show if the pedal is awaiting a calibration.
3x flash: XXX __ XXX __ XXX __ XXX Error auto-calibrating throttle.
4x flash: XXXX __ XXXX __ XXXX Error auto-calibrating pedal.
5x flash: XXXXX __ XXXXX __ XXXXX Error auto-calibrating throttle & pedal.


Throttle Pedal Re-calibration Procedure

The auto-calibration of the throttle pedal will start by flashing the check engine light slowly (1 second on / 1 second off ) at this time ensure the throttle pedal is NOT depressed.
When the ECU has obtained the 0% throttle calibration (within 30 seconds), the check engine light will start flashing fast (0.5 second on / 0.5 second off ) at this time depress the throttle pedal fully and hold untill the check engine light turns off.
Re-calibration of the throttle pedal is now complete.


Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) Description
P0227 Electronic Throttle 1 Throttle Position Sensor 1 Voltage Low
P0228 Electronic Throttle 1 Throttle Position Sensor 1 Voltage High
P1580 Electronic Throttle 1 Unknown Throttle Position Error
P1581 Electronic Throttle 1 Unknown Pedal Position Error
P2109 Electronic Throttle 1 Disabled
P2113 Electronic Throttle 1 TPS Tracking Error
P2114 Electronic Throttle 1 ECU Demand Error
P2122 Electronic Throttle 1 Throttle Position Sensor 2 Voltage Low
P2123 Electronic Throttle 1 Throttle Position Sensor 2 Voltage High
P2127 Electronic Throttle 1 Pedal Position Sensor 1 Voltage Low
P2128 Electronic Throttle 1 Pedal Position Sensor 1 Voltage High
P2132 Electronic Throttle 1 Pedal Position Sensor 2 Voltage Low
P2133 Electronic Throttle 1 Pedal Position Sensor 2 Voltage High
P2135 Electronic Throttle 1 Throttle Position Sensor Voltage Correlation
P2138 Electronic Throttle 1 Pedal Position Sensor Voltage Correlation
P2163 Electronic Throttle 1 Relaxed TPS Tracking PPS Settings
P2164 Electronic Throttle 1 Relaxed TPS Modifiers Settings
P2165 Electronic Throttle 1 Relaxed Sensor Mismatch Settings

 

Alright guys,
So I am going to work on the A/C condensers freezing problem next week after Memorial Day, but I am going to try to get you all a solution to this, I am hoping that it is just an A/C pressure and cycle time settings issue.

As far as the Clutch switch/launch control/flat shift stuff is concerned, I am working on a write up for this for cars that did not come with factory cruise control.

Thanks to everyone for your patience and I hope you all are getting useful information out of this thread!

 

That's great news for the A/C.

What about the cars that come up with cruise control for the rest?

Thanks!

 

Hopefully it is something simple to fix the a/c. I set my pressure to 220, and a on and off cycle to 5 sec. When the car is sitting still at a stop light or in a parking lot the pressure tends too rise to fast and when it reaches the max pressure it shuts off and wont turn back on unless you manually turn the fan off. While driving the AC pressure is relatively low and it will stay on as long as the vehicle is being driven. Also maybe its just me but i cant explain why in cooler weather 60-80 the A/C pressure doesn't rise as fast but in hot weather 85-108 it jumps to fast. I think I understand it but cant really explain it in a way it makes sense.

 

Haha Adam i just emailed you yesterday about this and asking why my car is like the way it is

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I wired up my own switch and used pin 7 and grounded out the switch whent into my input table and set up the flat foot **** haven't tried it yet but the light i have for clutch switch it changes colors so i think it works

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Launch control is more set up by your tuner ..i can snap a few pics of what mine looks like if you want .and as for the flat foot read what i posted before this

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Yeah Curtis, can you post pics of your launch control? Jeff set mine up but I messed with it and I don't remember the original values. LOL

 

Yeah I've been having a couple issues, but Haltech is being really good to me. We think there's just too much heat in the engine bay so I ordered a turbo blanket. We shall see.

 

You have an auto backup with your ecu, as long as you have not made too many connected changes , your original map should be there from the first time you connected to your laptop.

 

^I'm on my 2nd Haltech.

 

What exactly happened to your first one?

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Well from what we've determined, it pretty much just overheated which led to sudden failure. I'm taking steps to reduce heat in the engine bay. It's been extremely humid here in NJ lately, and between that, road temps in the mid 90s, my black car, stock bumper and stock hood with no vents, temps are pretty ridiculous in the engine bay.

To combat heat I've come up with the following solutions:
-Washer risers under the back of the hood. Yes it looks like dick. Once the turbo blanket comes in, I'll remove a couple washers so it looks flush, as it was actually a little sunken in from the factory.
-I've ordered a turbo blanket for the hot side.
-When I get a little more cash (I'm pretty strapped at the moment) I'll wrap the O2 housing.
-Will cut up my fog housings today for more air flow. (http://www.gencoupe.com/diy-do-yourself/35690-diy-oem-fog-bezels-cai.html)
-I set the engine fan for a lower activation temperature so it's on more of the time.
-I may cut a hole in the wheel well and wire in a computer case fan blowing on the ECU.

 

Well from what we've determined, it pretty much just overheated which led to sudden failure. I'm taking steps to reduce heat in the engine bay, but the replacement is acting up, too. It's been extremely humid here in NJ lately, and between that, road temps in the mid 90s, my black car, stock bumper and stock hood with no vents, temps are pretty ridiculous in the engine bay.

To combat heat I've come up with the following solutions:
-Washer risers under the back of the hood. Yes it looks like dick. Once the turbo blanket comes in, I'll remove a couple washers so it looks flush, as it was actually a little sunken in from the factory.
-I've ordered a turbo blanket for the hot side.
-When I get a little more cash (I'm pretty strapped at the moment) I'll wrap the O2 housing.
-Will cut up my fog housings today for more air flow. (http://www.gencoupe.com/diy-do-yourself/35690-diy-oem-fog-bezels-cai.html)
-I set the engine fan for a lower activation temperature so it's on more of the time.
-I may cut a hole in the wheel well and wire in a computer case fan blowing on the ECU.

Mine freaked out in Tenn during my trip to NY, from TX and it was raining the whole time, lucky I had enough common sense to always carry my stock ECU, and Computer with the Maps on it. I think the throttle lost its configs and then when I tried plugging up my laptop it would try and connect and then cut out, then all my configs were erased. I unplugged it plugged up my stock one and when I reached my final destination the Haltech let me plug up to it. On the way back to TX I used the Haltech and it worked fine. Over here the temps are 100+ so I could only imagine the engine temps but it doesn't freak out. Maybe cuz i still have the stock turbo.

I like your ideas to try and reduce engine temps.

 

You know, when mine acted up it was in the rain, too. Adam has assured me that the unit is completely waterproof, but it first died in the rain, and second cut out completely and did not let me connect to it. It was very hot, yes, but also just went through a car wash. :dunno:

 

You know, when mine acted up it was in the rain, too. Adam has assured me that the unit is completely waterproof, but my first ECU died in the rain, and the only time the second one cut out completely and did not let me connect to it, it was very hot, yes, but also just went through a car wash. :dunno:

Car Wash WTF????? weird

 

Well it was like 98F in the sun and the car is just idling there for like 25 minutes getting washed and dried. It's no surprise the temps were retarded.

 

I was thinkin about getting a blanket also but my turbo puts it way more heat an were not that far from eachother like 2hrs its hot hear also but good luck ..i to after hearing about the ecu prob have my oem in the car

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hey when do you think you will post a pic of your settings ?

 

i can in a few mins

 

this is the timing

this is fuel

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Did the carwash today with no problems. LOL. It was after a 5 minute drive, and I turned the motor off and opened the hood instead of sitting there idling.

 

Good

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