If someone can help with a reply, I will be forever in your gratitude, lol Also sorry about the book, just wanted to make sure you had all the proper context
Hello, I have a 2014, 3.8, about 8-9 months ago, replaced breaks and rotors, never bled the fluid, breaks eventually got soft, decided to bled the old fluid and replace it with new a couple months ago, everything was fine and then my breaks got soft again, went to bleed the breaks again but this time with a helper since last time I did it by myself. Breaks felt good, no problems, no codes, drove it around, no problems. Went to take the car out the next day and I had the abs, stability control and the emergency parking break light on, didn't take the car out, took the other car since I was heading to the movies and didn’t have time to assess the problem. Came back and the lights were gone. Thought maybe because I had air in my break lines and now I don’t? Idfk. Anyways, drove at least 200 some miles, breaks worked fine, nothing stood out and gave me any suspicion to think otherwise. Then the abs and stability control light came back on. I was told to go to auto zone and they’d be able to check the abs lights but soon after arriving they said only if the check engine light was on. Other places like Firestone trying to charge me 120$+ just for a diagnostics. So I just said f*ck it and bought a “bluedriver” obd2 scanner, kinda mad because I saw this other one (Creader VII+) the day after I already got bluedriver, for about the same price and it shows more than bluedriver, like the actuator relay, motor relay, solenoids, abs wheel sensors. (Not sure if I should return bluedriver and get the Creader VII+?)(Can someone also tell me if I should, lol) Anyways, scanned my car, got two different codes, C2380 (Status: NOT PRESENT - ABS/TCS/ESC (ESP) Valve Error) and C2402 (Status: MIL/NOT PRESENT - Motor - Electrical : open or short to battery, motor relay, fuse or motor lock fail). I cleared the codes to see if they would return, drove around fine, breaking was good, no problems until I stopped at the store and upon leaving, did a little first gear rip and then the abs and stability control light came on, pulled the code and it was only the “C2402”. I can break just fine, maybe a little “wobble” if heavy breaking occurred, but under normal conditions I notice no threat to my breaking? Thought maybe the battery was low and wasn’t getting enough voltage to the abs module? Tested it and I am getting 12.6 volts with the car off(Just tested it now to reassure and am getting 12.77 volts, not sure if that make a difference lol.) Anyways, didn’t think it was that, checked the fluid multiple times lol, still full from when I topped it off the last time I had bled the breaks. So not low fluid. Checked the fuses labeled ABS1 and ABS2, since it’s that big “18790-01028 F3 150A” fuse I just tested the two little prongs that sit on top of it since it’s bolted in and was getting the same ohms as I was touching the black and red testers (Can’t think of the name right now lol) together, about 00.3-00.1,(Upon looking up more information a couple later about abs lights/how to fix/Error code C2402, I seen a video of a guy unbolting the 150A fuse and testing each prong on the fuse, 8 prongs to be exact, and of course the ABS1 prong was loose, wasn’t testing/giving a reading what so ever and he replaced that huge ass fuse and his abs lights went away, ((wasn’t a Genesis coupe but it was a Hyundai and had the same fuse box setup)) so I am going to try that as well). Went on the remove the plug that I’m guessing powers the abs module? It was connected to the module, I do know that part lmao. I tested the plug that plugs into the module (now that I’m typing this and thinking about it, I don’t think I tested it correctly lmao) and was getting the same voltage as my battery, which is what another video told me should be happening. Plugged it back it and wasn’t sure what to do next, thought maybe it was a abs wheel sensor possibly? Thought maybe I f*cked it up by putting my wheel on somehow? You think I would have messed it up sooner if I did? And you think that would have been my code if it was that? Just made me think it was because when I did the little rip the lights came on? Idk. That’s why I’m here pleading for your knowledge and help, lol. Literally any help would be greatly appreciated, not a whole lot on the internet on this, just bits and pieces you kinda have to glue together to get somewhat of an understanding. Also not the type to have a grubby, greedy dealership have their dick beaters all over my baby and then make me watch and pay them. So yeah seriously, any help, lol.
Hello, I have a 2014, 3.8, about 8-9 months ago, replaced breaks and rotors, never bled the fluid, breaks eventually got soft, decided to bled the old fluid and replace it with new a couple months ago, everything was fine and then my breaks got soft again, went to bleed the breaks again but this time with a helper since last time I did it by myself. Breaks felt good, no problems, no codes, drove it around, no problems. Went to take the car out the next day and I had the abs, stability control and the emergency parking break light on, didn't take the car out, took the other car since I was heading to the movies and didn’t have time to assess the problem. Came back and the lights were gone. Thought maybe because I had air in my break lines and now I don’t? Idfk. Anyways, drove at least 200 some miles, breaks worked fine, nothing stood out and gave me any suspicion to think otherwise. Then the abs and stability control light came back on. I was told to go to auto zone and they’d be able to check the abs lights but soon after arriving they said only if the check engine light was on. Other places like Firestone trying to charge me 120$+ just for a diagnostics. So I just said f*ck it and bought a “bluedriver” obd2 scanner, kinda mad because I saw this other one (Creader VII+) the day after I already got bluedriver, for about the same price and it shows more than bluedriver, like the actuator relay, motor relay, solenoids, abs wheel sensors. (Not sure if I should return bluedriver and get the Creader VII+?)(Can someone also tell me if I should, lol) Anyways, scanned my car, got two different codes, C2380 (Status: NOT PRESENT - ABS/TCS/ESC (ESP) Valve Error) and C2402 (Status: MIL/NOT PRESENT - Motor - Electrical : open or short to battery, motor relay, fuse or motor lock fail). I cleared the codes to see if they would return, drove around fine, breaking was good, no problems until I stopped at the store and upon leaving, did a little first gear rip and then the abs and stability control light came on, pulled the code and it was only the “C2402”. I can break just fine, maybe a little “wobble” if heavy breaking occurred, but under normal conditions I notice no threat to my breaking? Thought maybe the battery was low and wasn’t getting enough voltage to the abs module? Tested it and I am getting 12.6 volts with the car off(Just tested it now to reassure and am getting 12.77 volts, not sure if that make a difference lol.) Anyways, didn’t think it was that, checked the fluid multiple times lol, still full from when I topped it off the last time I had bled the breaks. So not low fluid. Checked the fuses labeled ABS1 and ABS2, since it’s that big “18790-01028 F3 150A” fuse I just tested the two little prongs that sit on top of it since it’s bolted in and was getting the same ohms as I was touching the black and red testers (Can’t think of the name right now lol) together, about 00.3-00.1,(Upon looking up more information a couple later about abs lights/how to fix/Error code C2402, I seen a video of a guy unbolting the 150A fuse and testing each prong on the fuse, 8 prongs to be exact, and of course the ABS1 prong was loose, wasn’t testing/giving a reading what so ever and he replaced that huge ass fuse and his abs lights went away, ((wasn’t a Genesis coupe but it was a Hyundai and had the same fuse box setup)) so I am going to try that as well). Went on the remove the plug that I’m guessing powers the abs module? It was connected to the module, I do know that part lmao. I tested the plug that plugs into the module (now that I’m typing this and thinking about it, I don’t think I tested it correctly lmao) and was getting the same voltage as my battery, which is what another video told me should be happening. Plugged it back it and wasn’t sure what to do next, thought maybe it was a abs wheel sensor possibly? Thought maybe I f*cked it up by putting my wheel on somehow? You think I would have messed it up sooner if I did? And you think that would have been my code if it was that? Just made me think it was because when I did the little rip the lights came on? Idk. That’s why I’m here pleading for your knowledge and help, lol. Literally any help would be greatly appreciated, not a whole lot on the internet on this, just bits and pieces you kinda have to glue together to get somewhat of an understanding. Also not the type to have a grubby, greedy dealership have their dick beaters all over my baby and then make me watch and pay them. So yeah seriously, any help, lol.
