I've read lots of comments about this kit. Some say it's great, some say it's awful. Some say the pieces fit well, some say they fit horribly. The one thing everyone agrees on is that they come with NO instructions. And therein lies the problem.
I have the kit installed now, and I can assure you that it fits 100% perfectly, and works as well as--if not better than--described. Without adding any significant weight to your car, road noise will be reduced, and your stereo will sound better.
So, here's a HOWTO. As with all HOWTOs, I am providing this only in an attempt to be helpful. Use common sense, because if you break something, it's not my fault, and I cannot be held accountable. =)
SUPPLIES
First, you can order the kit here. Shark Racing
Note that when you place the order, which is $180 at the time of this writing, you can upgrade to get the kit with the fender pieces for an additional $50, raising the price to $230. However, the kit comes w/ a hood liner. 2.0T models don't have a factory hood liner to which you could mount the soundproofing material; as I understand it, the US 3.8 models don't either. I emailed the company and asked them if they'd include the fender liners instead of the hood liner for the original price of $180. They said they would. I placed my order, made a note referring to our conversation, and they did as I requested. Since I neither ordered nor received a hood liner, this HOWTO will not include instructions on how to install one.
So, the pieces that I received were the following:
Door (Driver)
Door (Passenger)
Trunk (Hatch)
Trunk (Floor)
Fender Liner (Driver)
Fender Liner (Passenger)
The only other supply you will need is some kind of adhesive spray. I used 3M Super 77 spray.
![Image]()
TOOLS
You only need 3 tools for this project.
1) A plastic fastener removal tool.
![Image]()
2) A Philips screwdriver
![Image]()
3) A Dora the Explorer blanket.*
![Image]()
* I suppose any blanket will do. But if you COULD use a Dora blanket, why wouldn't you?
INSTALLATION
Doors
Remove the door panels completely. There are many HOWTOs on this step. You do need to remove the door panel completely. That means after popping out all 10 pop-connectors, you'll need to unscrew the door handle/lock mechanism. That piece looks like this:
![Image]()
You only need to remove ONE big screw (the one shown in the preceding picture) and TWO small screws. They are pictured below. (One screw is hidden behind the white cable; the other is clearly visible.)
![Image]()
Once you remove it, your door will look like this:
![Image]()
THIS IS IMPORTANT. The soundproofing liner goes on the backside of the door panel itself, NOT on the door. See below:
![Image]()
Apply the adhesive spray to the soundproofing material, then apply the soundproofing material to the door panel. It's sticky, but allows for repositioning, if you do it quickly.
Note the various plugs that you'll need to reconnect. There are openings for these plugs in the soundproofing material. Reinstall the handle/latch, reconnect the plugs, then reinstall the door panel.
Repeat for the other side.
Trunk Hatch
The trunk hatch trim piece has 10 connectors you'll need to pop out using a plastic fastener removal tool (aka door upholstery remover, etc.) Once you pop all 10, the trim/carpet piece will come out. Simply place the soundproofing material on it and use the adhesive. NOTE: Make sure you orient the piece correctly. If you have it mirror-flipped, the latch opening will appear to be 2-3 inches offset. Simply mirror-flip the piece, and it should line up perfectly. When you are happy with the alignment, apply the spray adhesive, then reinstall the trim piece.
![Image]()
Trunk Floor
This piece is one people sometimes complain about being poorly made. Invariably, they have tried to install the piece in the wheel well. It doesn't go there; it goes on the underside of the trunk carpet. Note that the trunk floor piece is a mirror image of itself, so you can't mirror-flip it the wrong way.
Original piece:
![Image]()
Back side with soundproofing material adhered using the 3M Super 77 adhesive spray.
![Image]()
Fender Liners
These take some time, but like the other pieces are straight forward. Note that the fender liners are exactly the same, whether they go on the driver's side or the passenger's side, so you can't get it wrong.
Jack up the car in the front and remove the front tire. NOTE: Always use a jack stand in addition to a jack when jacking up a car and working under or around it.
Using your philips screwdriver, remove all plastic fasteners and screws from the plastic fender liner.
Your car will look like this:
![Image]()
Your fender liner will look like this:
![Image]()
You need to clean all the dirt off of the fender liner and make sure that it's dry. Apply the adhesive spray to the back of one of the soundproofing fender liners and apply it to the plastic fender liner. The result will look like this:
![Image]()
Reinstall the fender liner using the plastic fasteners and screws.
Repeat for the other side.
That's it! All that's left is to clean up your mess, put away your tools, fold and put away your Dora blanket, and enjoy your much-quieter car!
I have the kit installed now, and I can assure you that it fits 100% perfectly, and works as well as--if not better than--described. Without adding any significant weight to your car, road noise will be reduced, and your stereo will sound better.
So, here's a HOWTO. As with all HOWTOs, I am providing this only in an attempt to be helpful. Use common sense, because if you break something, it's not my fault, and I cannot be held accountable. =)
SUPPLIES
First, you can order the kit here. Shark Racing
Note that when you place the order, which is $180 at the time of this writing, you can upgrade to get the kit with the fender pieces for an additional $50, raising the price to $230. However, the kit comes w/ a hood liner. 2.0T models don't have a factory hood liner to which you could mount the soundproofing material; as I understand it, the US 3.8 models don't either. I emailed the company and asked them if they'd include the fender liners instead of the hood liner for the original price of $180. They said they would. I placed my order, made a note referring to our conversation, and they did as I requested. Since I neither ordered nor received a hood liner, this HOWTO will not include instructions on how to install one.
So, the pieces that I received were the following:
Door (Driver)
Door (Passenger)
Trunk (Hatch)
Trunk (Floor)
Fender Liner (Driver)
Fender Liner (Passenger)
The only other supply you will need is some kind of adhesive spray. I used 3M Super 77 spray.
TOOLS
You only need 3 tools for this project.
1) A plastic fastener removal tool.
2) A Philips screwdriver
3) A Dora the Explorer blanket.*
* I suppose any blanket will do. But if you COULD use a Dora blanket, why wouldn't you?
INSTALLATION
Doors
Remove the door panels completely. There are many HOWTOs on this step. You do need to remove the door panel completely. That means after popping out all 10 pop-connectors, you'll need to unscrew the door handle/lock mechanism. That piece looks like this:
You only need to remove ONE big screw (the one shown in the preceding picture) and TWO small screws. They are pictured below. (One screw is hidden behind the white cable; the other is clearly visible.)
Once you remove it, your door will look like this:
THIS IS IMPORTANT. The soundproofing liner goes on the backside of the door panel itself, NOT on the door. See below:
Apply the adhesive spray to the soundproofing material, then apply the soundproofing material to the door panel. It's sticky, but allows for repositioning, if you do it quickly.
Note the various plugs that you'll need to reconnect. There are openings for these plugs in the soundproofing material. Reinstall the handle/latch, reconnect the plugs, then reinstall the door panel.
Repeat for the other side.
Trunk Hatch
The trunk hatch trim piece has 10 connectors you'll need to pop out using a plastic fastener removal tool (aka door upholstery remover, etc.) Once you pop all 10, the trim/carpet piece will come out. Simply place the soundproofing material on it and use the adhesive. NOTE: Make sure you orient the piece correctly. If you have it mirror-flipped, the latch opening will appear to be 2-3 inches offset. Simply mirror-flip the piece, and it should line up perfectly. When you are happy with the alignment, apply the spray adhesive, then reinstall the trim piece.
Trunk Floor
This piece is one people sometimes complain about being poorly made. Invariably, they have tried to install the piece in the wheel well. It doesn't go there; it goes on the underside of the trunk carpet. Note that the trunk floor piece is a mirror image of itself, so you can't mirror-flip it the wrong way.
Original piece:
Back side with soundproofing material adhered using the 3M Super 77 adhesive spray.
Fender Liners
These take some time, but like the other pieces are straight forward. Note that the fender liners are exactly the same, whether they go on the driver's side or the passenger's side, so you can't get it wrong.
Jack up the car in the front and remove the front tire. NOTE: Always use a jack stand in addition to a jack when jacking up a car and working under or around it.
Using your philips screwdriver, remove all plastic fasteners and screws from the plastic fender liner.
Your car will look like this:
Your fender liner will look like this:
You need to clean all the dirt off of the fender liner and make sure that it's dry. Apply the adhesive spray to the back of one of the soundproofing fender liners and apply it to the plastic fender liner. The result will look like this:
Reinstall the fender liner using the plastic fasteners and screws.
Repeat for the other side.
That's it! All that's left is to clean up your mess, put away your tools, fold and put away your Dora blanket, and enjoy your much-quieter car!
