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Problem when accelerating in 4th and 5th gear, help please.

12K views 36 replies 16 participants last post by  1sty  
#1 ·
So I just recently had a TurboXS downpipe installed, but I don't think this could cause the problem. It's been raining a lot here so I haven't really pushed the car hard or anything, but it finally cleared up about 3 days ago so I decided to see how the car feels with the downpipe. Whenever I do a hard acceleration through 4th and 5th, the car will stop accelerating around 4.5k for a second then accelerate again. The RPM will drop slightly and stay still then continue going up after a second. It's only happened in 4th like twice and about 6 times in 5th gear. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?
I have a CAI, DP, CBE, and PA reflash. Thanks.
 
#2 ·
Sounds like clutch slip, not a txt book description, but it's indicative of such based off the gears that're affected, and your current mods.
 
#3 ·
I kind of thought it could be this.. but I really have no idea what it feels like with a slipping clutch or what that would do.
Does it get worse over time?
 
#4 ·
It doesn't sound like clutch slip to me.......clutch slip in 4th and 5th will happen in low rpms when you floor it and get alot of boost and TQ,,,,the rpms will rise up 500 or so fast and no reletive car acceleration then the clutch will grab and the car will accelerate accordingly..............
 
#5 ·
Sounds like what I had... clutch is most likely on its way out. Mine did it alittle earlier, I would be at 3k, in 4th, floor it, rpm would jump to 4k and then drop back down and start accelerating.

I have the SPEC stag3+ and flywheel now. I'm not sure I would reccomend it due to the crank sensor problem me and a few other people had, although it seems to have gone away/happen waaaay lest often. When it works, its great, pedal is not too firm, you can slip it almost like stock and it hooks up pretty hard.

If you think you can handle driving a puck clutch, get the DTMSPEED Stage 4, I think thats the only one that has no issues.

If you're a baller and can afford Beyond Redlines twin disc, go for that.

Oh and it will get worse over time, to the point where you probably won't be able to drive your car in boost. Take it easy and don't floor it above 2nd or 3rd gear, and pick up a new clutch soon.
 
#7 ·
same thing for me whenn i'm accelerate in 4-5 or 6th gear at 3000rpm the clutch slim, rpm high to 4-5 000 and it drop after between 3 and 4 000 rpm .... i ordered a new clutch ;) stage 3+
 
#10 · (Edited)
Its clutch slip.
My car acted exactly the same way when it started to slip with the flash and an exhaust.
You have three choices:
1. Ignore it and it will continue to get worse.
2. Replaces the clutch and flywheel.
3. go back to the stock tune before its too late and you have to swap the clutch.

by the way, remember this little comment?
http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/47834-350-hp-under-5000-a-3.html

And that somehow makes the rest of our clutches not slip?
And yours somehow makes the rest of our clutches slip?
That's a BIG I told ya so!
 
#12 ·
clutch time baby! samething happens to me!
 
#13 ·
Go with the clutch masters, and driving a puck isn't bad at all, it's nice because the trackibility is there when you need it. More pucks = more DD friendly. Best of both worlds.
 
#14 ·
Well yeah I would think the clutch would slip at lower RPM especially when there's the most boost and tq, like a few of you were saying.

So what else could it be if it's acting funny at 4.5k rpm up to 5k rpm?
I want to get a new clutch and flywheel anyways... but not this soon lol and what kind of deals are people getting on them? and hows the install?

@1sty it might not be my clutch slipping but yeah you told me haha
 
#15 ·
You can also reset the ECU and see if it was something weird that it learned/issue.
But I doubt it.
Also if you have a boost gauge, you may see boost jump a few PSI when this happens at first.

Spec clutch and flywheel will be about $1100 shipped, Clutchmaster will be about $1450.
 
#16 ·
well maybe I'll try resetting it.. but nope I don't have a boost gauge so I can't check.

alright thanks, I guess I'll have to start saving up now.
 
#17 · (Edited)
well I've been lookin up ways I can tell the clutch is actually slipping.. and it said to drive in a high gear at low mph you can tell if it slips. I drive normally in 5th or 6th gear on the street 45 mph or under just fine and haven't had any problems while slowly accelerating in a high gear at low rpm.

oh and a while back quartermaster said that the stock clutch is able to handle up to 290 tq, i doubt I'm over 260-270 wtq.

Edit: just saw he said at the flywheel... that means probably 250 wtq?
 
#18 ·
Its like 99.999% your clutch...

When I had went to my mechanic to get some other stuff done I had him test mine. He put the parking brake on, put it in 6th gear and the clutch out and had it almost stall, it made some kind of noise (I'm not sure what) but he said that meant it was starting to slip/
 
#20 ·
well I know it's common for people to have their clutch slipping from tunes and all the tq...
but I don't know if that's my problem. I'm able to accelerate just fine in a high gear at low speeds, tomorrow I'll probably put it in 4th or 5th and see if it stalls right away at a stop. If it doesn't right away then I have a problem haha
 
#21 ·
You clutch is slipping due to torque, the car produces the most amount of
torque in 4th but more in 5th gear as seen by my previous dyno results, and for
the record i have loads of slipping, so i wouldn't expect these guys making
400WHP with stock clutch to have a clutch much longer..

Look at the RPM when the torque is highest in my thread below:
http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/51800-dyno-results.html
 
#23 ·
Thanks for all the help and information guys.
I want to get a new clutch anyways, so most likely I'll be saving up for that and a flywheel now.
I was just wondering though, my car is having problems at 4500 rpm in 5th gear shouldn't it be lower than that where the peak tq is?
 
#24 · (Edited)
When mine first started slipping, it would slip at about 3500 and catch around 4500.
Is that just where you are seeing it catch or is that where it starts slipping?
You can always flash back to stock but if the issue is power, that will solve it.
If you still have the problem after going to stock, then its something else.
Also you can always reset the ECU to make sure it didn't learn something that is causing a stumble.

Do you have the BR tune or the PA tune?
If its BR, you need a different tune from the normal tune you had before the downpipe.
 
#27 ·
well i was able to put it in 4th gear at low rpm and floor it up hill and it did not do it. it just accelerated like normal. but 5th gear it did kind of stop accelerating again around 4200 so maybe it is barely starting to slip?
 
#28 ·
You have to understand your clutch is "on it's way out" not quite there yet. Fact of the matter is that all the things you've described to us are indicative of a slipping clutch. Save now, and just live with it for awhile. I guarantee you ALL the symptoms will surface later once your clutch is Finally done.
 
#29 ·
Yeah that's what I'm thinking haha, just trying to make it seem like it's not slipping.... I didn't want to think my clutch was already starting to slip.
but I'll make sure my next thing I buy for my car is a new clutch. for now I'm going to reflash back to stock, get some stuff checked out by Hyundai (weird noise from AC and stuff) change my trans fluid then reflash back to 18 psi instead of 20 psi from PA if anything. And hopefully I'll be ready to buy a new clutch by the end of winter...
 
#35 ·
You have me worried man.. do you have the standard PA flash? When you do get a clutch installed, I gotta hit you up for more info because I'm sure mine will go soon as well. Did you used to have the injen IC pipes as well?
 
#36 ·
Haha sorry. Well if you have the PA flash and an aftermarket exhaust most likely you'll have too much tq for the stock clutch, I just have an intake, downpipe, catback, and PA flash. Yeah I have the 20 psi tune from PA. Yeah I'll make sure to let you know how it goes and everything. Yep I had the piping, but sold them.

Oh and I'm at close to 25k miles and probably had the PA tune for at least 3k miles, the downpipe I just added like 2 weeks ago and now my clutch is starting to slip. I guess getting rid of that secondary cat is what made too much tq for the clutch lol.
 
#37 ·
Its all about time.
With just a stock exhuast it was going to start slipping. It just might have lasted another month.
The IC pipes, exhuast, and intake hold very little to no impact. A 5 wtq difference is not going to be the difference maker.

I would still highly suggest resetting the ECU before doing anything else. Just disconnect the battery when you get home tonight and reconnect it in the morning. That is all you need to do.

I don't want to see any more excuses about this! It takes 1 minute and a 10mm socket.
:p
If that doesn't stop the problem, then its the clutch.