Jermaine don't care, he can tune anything. He will figure out the flow properties of your turbo while he is tuning it. You can make any amount of power on any turbo, it's up to you how much boost you want to use. For example- on my first dyno pass with the 20g, it made 270whp @ 14psi. If you're using the stock MAP sensors, you can safely go up to 22psi.
I really want to go all out and get the garrett 60-1 setup, I theorize that it will make more power, and spool faster than a td06sl2-20g. I also have my exhaust manifold ported and ceramic coated, and my turbo ceramic coated by grimmspeed on mine, which helps with flow and spool. I'm also trying out this turbo blanket, which surprisingly actually seems to make a difference in spool time, even on top of my porting work. I'm amazed actually, and it's just a cheap ebay one too. I am going to try a real one next, like a DEI or PTP. The T3 one fits our turbos btw, and does not interfere with the wastegate actuator arm.
You can easily get 300-330whp @20psi from your untouched 16g, maybe more since you run a haltech. I think the 16g might max out around 350whp with a really dialed in tune and some 750cc injectors. The 16g-20g are all pretty similar below 20psi, marginally different, they aren't even that different in spool time. People say the 20G really wakes up around 25psi, totally different character, but you can't safely do 25psi on the genesis unless you upgrade your MAP sensors. PRW makes a good kit, that's what I'm going to get before my next tune. I might also go back to the EBCS and run the MBC as a safeguard on top to allow some fine tuning of the low end boost curve so I can safely run 25psi max on the top end- I don't need 25psi coming on at part throttle lol. MBC is a double edged sword, it's hardcore beast mode style all the time and really consistent, but, it's also hardcore beast mode style all the time. Know what I mean? I think my 20g is good for a bit more than the 16g max, I make 333whp now at 19.5psi, and they say the 20g can hold around 28psi to redline if your engine can handle it. I say a stock 20g can do at least 375whp. The garrett wheel and bigger housing would be good bit more than the 20g. I really have no way of knowing how it would affect spool time since i've never even seen the garret wheel or kinugawa antisurge housing in person, but I can say the 20g with ported manifold spools fast- fast enough that I get that 4th gear surge I mentioned earlier, which is why i need the antisurge housing. Don't get me wrong, there are times here and there when you catch the 20g off guard and it can feel a wee bit lazy. When you do it right though, it goes like STANK.
Torque spikes can be tuned out if you use your OEM EBCS since you have full control of boost duty cycle at any givn rpm, it's a bit harder to do when you run a MBC since the turbo will always try to go to wastegate spring pressure immediately, but not impossible.
Oh on another note, I was taking a closer look at my stock turbo and manifold. It looks like you have two ways of installing the antisurge housing. The V band clamp holds the compressor housing and center cartridge assembly to the turbine side. SO if you go that route, youll also have to take off the oil and coolant lines too, then disassemble everything. Seems like a lot of work.
It looks like there is a large flat spring clip that holds the compressor housing to the center cartridge. You will need a spring clip retainer remover, and if you can reach it, you can just pop that clip off and the compressor housing should come right off. You might be able to do that part without removing anything else. Just as long as that clip is accessible in your engine bay and you can actually get the remover tool on it. There is a great video on youtube showing how to take apart a 16g, it might be helpful to us. I'll see if I can find it.
