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Competition clutch problem solved

15K views 22 replies 12 participants last post by  mrsmobbins101  
#1 · (Edited)
ok first not starting a war on this just wanted to show it to people ..
so i had my CC clutch setup installed a few weeks ago and had problems with it ... since the install i wasn't able to change gears as quick as before and i also had a problem where the clutch wouldn't disengage completely ... i solved that part by bleeding the line correctly ...

then 2 weeks ago my transmission started grinding .. and the usual vibration that i used to hear while idling was much louder than it was ...

i've spent 370$ on a clutch install.. guys at the dealer put everything that came in the box to make sure it would work correctly .. but it didn't .. they ended up spending tho whole day on my car and decided to split the bill in half because 8hours at 85$/hour is way too much for a clutch install

i went to the garage this morning because the car was literally undrivable
they fixed the car and but i ended up with this

Image


So when they removes the transmission bolt, they tried pulling on it but it wouldn't come out ... something was stuck in there ... they had to put bolts to push the transmission out and then the culprit showed up

TADAA!
Image


This is the brass bushing that comes with the clutch kit ... you have to press it in the flywheel and grease it a bit and the input shaft should spin freely in that bushing instead of the OEM bearing .. but the reality is ... the bushing doesn't fit loose enough on the input shaft so when they pulled the transmission, that bushing was stuck on the input shaft and they had to use a puller to pull it out .. so we ended up putting the stock bearing but the fitment wasn't as tight as they would've liked (because of what happened with the bushing) .. they ended up putting a bit of loctite or something similar to make sure it doesn't get out


so finally .. after spending about 650$ for a clutch install the car is running fine but we can't say if this has done damage the transmission yet
i still have that weird vibration while idling since that problem happened but i really hope it doesn't get worse because my car now sounds like crap at every stoplights
 
#2 ·
btw the dents on the bushing were done by the clutch disc because it had to go through it to pull the transmission out
 
#3 ·
mis parler du français désolé

but hope it works! i might be changing mine soon!

what stage kit do you have?
 
#4 ·
stage IV ..
what i suggest to people : throw that bushing away and put the oem bearing .. that's what should come with the kit
 
#5 ·
Lucky for me I didn't want to install the brass bushing and just added the factory bushing without any problems.

+1 for me on my quick judgement lol
 
#6 ·
if i knew i could use the oem ...
the guy told me that the bearing couldn't be removed from the oem flywheel

but anyway .. the bushing came in the kit .. it's supposed to work with it
 
#7 ·
subcribed... stage 4 is what ill prob be getting.

david how does the pedal feel?
 
#8 ·
it's quite a bit stiffer than the stock clutch but you get used to it quick .. then you try others people car and have trouble driving their car correctly since the pedal gets floored so easily lol
 
#9 · (Edited)
it you're shooting for big numbers take stage IV vut i guess under 450-475wtq the stage 3 is more than enough .. stage 4 is a bit overkill .. but still quite easy to drive .. but if i had to do it all again i would go with stage 3 .. enough for 99.95% people here

the only downside is that stupid bushing .. ive paid nearly 400$ too much for my install because of that ..
today it took a hair over 2.5 hours to re-do everything correctly and they had to mess with bolts to pull the tranny out .. other than that it would have been a 1.5-1.75 hour job .. like 150-160$ max .. the guy that did the install is freakin awesome.. the first time they replaced the transmission for mi grind problem it took 1hour including bleeding the clutch and test drive ..
 
#11 · (Edited)
im using the competition clutch flywheel .. stock one is POS
 
#12 ·
ok so stock brass bushing did the job with some loctite
 
#13 ·
no .. stock bearing from oem flywheel ..and you shouldn't need to use loctite normally
 
#16 ·
The brass bushing in my kit was too tight when the tech test fitted it on the input shaft BEFORE putting it in the Flywheel, even more so after being pressed in there, so he gently honed it out until the fit was barely tight, but with no play.

But What I don't get is how they were able to install your tranny in there in the first place, because of the nature of the bushing material, it should normally have eaten away at the bushing and somewhat lubricate the joint at the same time...Not seize on there and spin inside the flywheel...o_O.
 
#18 ·
My CC stage 2 didn't come with that pilot bearing..... Mine was already pressed in and it was not brass. IIRC it looked like an actual bearing more than a bushing, as seen above. I will have to see if I can dig up some pics..... Whats the deal here..... I have mad tranny chatter/vibrations at idle. :squint:
 
#19 ·
You got the newer kit which Competition was able to finally get the pilot
bearing similar to stock, both work fine but if the brass is pressed in,
incorrectly it's to tight and requires it to be honed out a bit, and as with any
clutch/flywheel install you should always test fit everything.

+1.....

BTW, for those of you who have damaged the OEM aluminum pilot bearing or have already disposed of it & are in need of one, hit Tim@BeyondRedline up. He has finally been able to locate replacements to match the OEM units at very good price & I ordered 3 for myself just have a couple on backup. I will use a vernier caliper to confirm the dimensions prior to install for those that are interested.

BTW, I exhausted every resource I had at my disposal trying to locate one of these with no luck as it seems Hyundai has some sorta lock on them & no one would disclose how to get one w/o purchasing the OEM Hyundai POS DMF.
Or contact Competition Clutch directly and get the OEM like bearing for free, call and ask for Dan at competition

The brass bushing in my kit was too tight when the tech test fitted it on the input shaft BEFORE putting it in the Flywheel, even more so after being pressed in there, so he gently honed it out until the fit was barely tight, but with no play.

But What I don't get is how they were able to install your tranny in there in the first place, because of the nature of the bushing material, it should normally have eaten away at the bushing and somewhat lubricate the joint at the same time...Not seize on there and spin inside the flywheel...o_O.
Exactly how it should be done for anyone who had the brass bearing/bushing.

Again contact Competition Clutch if you have the brass bearing and have/had
issues with it and Competition Clutch will get you the needle pilot bearing that
is similar to OEM one.
 
#20 ·
Oooooohhhhh yea. I think we already had this discussion. Sorry man my memory is not so great these days...
 
#21 ·
thats what happens when ur sniffing race gas all day! LOL