[danperezsax]

Well, the car didn't make it into NYC in rush hour traffic without starting its TPS shenanigans. I pulled over and aired out the engine bay for 20 minutes and it was fine the rest of the afternoon/night. So clearly the turbo blanket is necessary. I also have a heat shield for the exhaust manifold that I haven't installed yet, which I'll put on this week.

Honestly, the car is pretty solid... today was kind of the perfect storm of heat generation and it only acted up a little. I drove through stop and go traffic for an hour to get to my girlfriend's, parked the car for 20 minutes and then drove into the city in stop and go traffic much of the way as well, with 85F road temps. So I'm not too worried about the ECU overheating under most circumstances, however I do want to make it bomb proof, so I'll be taking as many steps as I can.

I also have a laptop fan I plan to install near the ECU. What I'm gonna do, I think, is drill some decent sized holes in the wheel well, and use material like the battery wrap Cris posted to create kind of a barrier between the ECU and the motor. If I wrapped the ECU in it, its case would not function as a heat sink, so I won't do that. I know I'll never prevent all the hot air from reaching the ECU with a makeshift barrier, but at least I'll block radiant heat from the engine, and between cowl induction, holes in the bottom of the wheel well and a fan blowing on the ECU, it should stay pretty cool, I think.

 

[ElDominio]

Well, the car didn't make it into NYC in rush hour traffic without starting its TPS shenanigans. I pulled over and aired out the engine bay for 20 minutes and it was fine the rest of the afternoon/night. So clearly the turbo blanket is necessary. I also have a heat shield for the exhaust manifold that I haven't installed yet, which I'll put on this week.

Honestly, the car is pretty solid... today was kind of the perfect storm of heat generation and it only acted up a little. I drove through stop and go traffic for an hour to get to my girlfriend's, parked the car for 20 minutes and then drove into the city in stop and go traffic much of the way as well, with 85F road temps. So I'm not too worried about the ECU overheating under most circumstances, however I do want to make it bomb proof, so I'll be taking as many steps as I can.

I also have a laptop fan I plan to install near the ECU. What I'm gonna do, I think, is drill some decent sized holes in the wheel well, and use material like the battery wrap Cris posted to create kind of a barrier between the ECU and the motor. If I wrapped the ECU in it, its case would not function as a heat sink, so I won't do that. I know I'll never prevent all the hot air from reaching the ECU with a makeshift barrier, but at least I'll block radiant heat from the engine, and between cowl induction, holes in the bottom of the wheel well and a fan blowing on the ECU, it should stay pretty cool, I think.

A speed shop in Puerto Rico tried that already, no dice

Unless the fan is on the ECU itself (think amplifier fan), it'll barely help

 

[danperezsax]

I can mount it on the ECU.

 

[curtisb]

i dont understand why tho? dan an i are not that fare a part we have some of the same heat and my top mount 5858 cea puts out way more heat then his turbo ,i have my fogs cut also or w.e you call them... dan wonder if the turbo blanket will fit my turbo? if so how much lol

 

[curtisb]

adam can we get ta link rite to the switch? i have figured out the wireing on my own... launch controll works in my car

i also am having prob with my a/c still after the new update and my throtal does soemthing weired also when i get off the gas and get backinto it hard but no boost the throtal like cutts out or somthing evans tuning is having truble trying figure this out? and ideas?

 

[cameleon1267]

My tubular exhaust manifold also produce a lot of heat under the hood and my evo X setup runs hot. It's not wrapped and I don't have a turbo blanket. So far no heat issue with the haltech.

Side note: when I try to rev the engine quickly in neutral usually the rpm will drop first before going up. Anyone else with this behavior. I have to go easy on the throttle to avoid this.


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[curtisb]

My tubular exhaust manifold also produce a lot of heat under the hood and my evo X setup runs hot. It's not wrapped and I don't have a turbo blanket. So far no heat issue with the haltech.

Side note: when I try to rev the engine quickly in neutral usually the rpm will drop first before going up. Anyone else with this behavior. I have to go easy on the throttle to avoid this.


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the rev thing is can be ajusted its supost to idal high till you stop then comes down around 1000 rpms

 

[cameleon1267]

the rev thing is can be ajusted its supost to idal high till you stop then comes down around 1000 rpms

I meant when the car is not moving just idling and if I try to rev it applying throttle too quickly the rpm will drop first and then go up


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[curtisb]

My tubular exhaust manifold also produce a lot of heat under the hood and my evo X setup runs hot. It's not wrapped and I don't have a turbo blanket. So far no heat issue with the haltech.

Side note: when I try to rev the engine quickly in neutral usually the rpm will drop first before going up. Anyone else with this behavior. I have to go easy on the throttle to avoid this.


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the rev thing is can be ajusted its supost to idal high till you stop then comes down around 1000 rpms

 

[ecarca]

your a/c system wis over charged, running too high pressure, happend to my car when hyundai replaced my a/c compressor underwarranty the tech charged the system, and then another tech recharged/over charged, the system without first measuring the pressure in the system. So it ended up being my system was running to high pressure

Not sure. But that discharge was like something was over pressured for sure. However, I had no issues whatsoever before using the haltech. The thing I noticed is: if I'm driving the airco will blow cold air. When I'm idling, it will become warmer/hot. And I still have idle control issues with the A/C on. A bit of hunting. I wonder if it is still the ventilator coming on or not...

 

[ecarca]

Alright guys,
So I am going to work on the A/C condensers freezing problem next week after Memorial Day, but I am going to try to get you all a solution to this, I am hoping that it is just an A/C pressure and cycle time settings issue.

As far as the Clutch switch/launch control/flat shift stuff is concerned, I am working on a write up for this for cars that did not come with factory cruise control.

Thanks to everyone for your patience and I hope you all are getting useful information out of this thread!

That's great news for the A/C.

What about the cars that come up with cruise control for the rest?

Thanks!

 

[ecarca]

Well from what we've determined, it pretty much just overheated which led to sudden failure. I'm taking steps to reduce heat in the engine bay, but the replacement is acting up, too. It's been extremely humid here in NJ lately, and between that, road temps in the mid 90s, my black car, stock bumper and stock hood with no vents, temps are pretty ridiculous in the engine bay.

To combat heat I've come up with the following solutions:
-Washer risers under the back of the hood. Yes it looks like dick. Once the turbo blanket comes in, I'll remove a couple washers so it looks flush, as it was actually a little sunken in from the factory.
-I've ordered a turbo blanket for the hot side.
-When I get a little more cash (I'm pretty strapped at the moment) I'll wrap the O2 housing.
-Will cut up my fog housings today for more air flow. (http://www.gencoupe.com/diy-do-yourself/35690-diy-oem-fog-bezels-cai.html)
-I set the engine fan for a lower activation temperature so it's on more of the time.
-I may cut a hole in the wheel well and wire in a computer case fan blowing on the ECU.

I did not read my temps but it's ridiculous compared to the 19T! I still have a turbo blanket, a swaintech coated manifold, downpipe and screamer pipe all wrapped and it is real hot there!!! I'm considering a carbon vented hood, not sure how much it will help but the under hood temps are definitely too high. I don't see any other solution at my stage because I already have everything that is supposed to have some kind of positive effect...

 

[ElDominio]

My tubular exhaust manifold also produce a lot of heat under the hood and my evo X setup runs hot. It's not wrapped and I don't have a turbo blanket. So far no heat issue with the haltech.

Side note: when I try to rev the engine quickly in neutral usually the rpm will drop first before going up. Anyone else with this behavior. I have to go easy on the throttle to avoid this.


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Your Accel Enrich (transient throttle enrichment) is incorrectly tuned.
The sudden change in throttle is making your car lean out for a split second, then going normal, hence the drop in RPMs

 

[ecarca]

Sometime late this week or early next week I will have the launch control/flat shift write up posted here!

Awesome !!!

So if you have the cruise control, no need for an extra switch, right?

Thanks!

 

[ecarca]

Your Accel Enrich (transient throttle enrichment) is incorrectly tuned.
The sudden change in throttle is making your car lean out for a split second, then going normal, hence the drop in RPMs

100% agreed, I had the same issue and the tuner corrected it. It made a hell of a difference in terms of drivability, even the clutch got much easier to use, just thanks to that small abnormal behavior being corrected.

 

[ecarca]

Well, the car didn't make it into NYC in rush hour traffic without starting its TPS shenanigans.

I also had this happening twice in rush hour traffic: after being in, say, 45 minutes bumper to bumper traffic. It did not come back now that I am retuned. I am not sure if it comes from overheating or not. I will let you know as well if it comes back. in about a month we'll be sporting air temps of 100+ degrees with high humidity. It will be the first summer of my haltech, I guess these are extreme test conditions...

 

[HaltechAdam]

Alright guys,

So we definitely have a lot of good ideas/ information floating around about the heat issue with modified cars. Fans in the wheel well area, vented hoods, cut out fog light bezels, etc. It has become a popular topic so I am trying to keep up with what everyone has tried and what the results have been as well as how many people are experiencing these issues. If you have ANY issue, please email me so that I can document these things in a more organized manner.

As far as launch control, we have the switch in stock but it does not have a part number, you just need to ask for it. I do not know where we sourced these.

With the A/C issue, I am almost certain that it is a setting issue that I need to figure out, I just haven't had time to devote to it. I am going to work on it soon though, I know you guys want good working A/C for the summer.

With that said, please continue to email me with questions and or issues, I will be happy to work with all of you to get these things resolved.

Thanks,

Adam

 

[Red Raspberry]

Have you read the AC thread where some think the system is under pressurized? It seems the decal is wrong. The manual is right.

 

[danperezsax]

Curtis, the only reason I can think of that I'm having these issues and you're not is I must just drive a lot more than you. I freelance all over the tristate area and I put around 350 miles on the car in an average week, in all different driving conditions. For this particular issue, my usage of the car is definitely hard on it.

 

[HaltechAdam]

And were back, so I have brought the overheating issue to the attention of our engineers and we have been doing testing as I told you all about. Today I got a summary of the testing and results from our engineer who had the test car in arizona, I will copy and paste his email here:

After some analysis of the data we recorded from our vehicle in Arizona we can confirm that high underhood temps are certainly a cause for throttle failure. What we measured was when underhood air temperatures approach 120C the air temp inside the ECU case is approaching 130C and the surface temperature of the throttle control chip is reaching 140C at this temperature the chip begins to fail to open the throttle and a change in APP will yield no corresponding change in throttle blade movement. Typically the throttle will get stuck at about 6% opening and go no further.

Once the surface temp of the throttle chip drops below 125C it operates reliably again, consistently until it gets back up to the mid to high 130’s where it fails again.

We were able to induce underhood temps of this nature with the engine idling for long periods (if the car had been driven on the highway for an hour or so and then just let idle on the black top in 40C ambient temps it took about 25 mins if idle to reach these failure temps.

Given the issue here is ambient underhood temps, heatsinking or putting fans on the ECU itself will have little effect as the heat is not being generated in the ECU, but in the engine compartment. Turbo blankets and exhaust heatshields should have a positive effect in lowering the engine bay temps and therefore helping the issue.

Given that automotive grade electronics components are only rated to 125C even if the throttle continued to work at these sorts of ambient temperatures something else would soon enough be failing. Something else that may be worth looking at is the ignition timing values people are using at idle, advancing the timing a couple of degrees will have reduce exhaust gas temperature thereby reducing underhood temps as well as will exhaust cam timing and EGR (exhaust cam timing essentially acts as EGR at idle anyways).


I hope that this is more informative than my "we beat the crap out of our test car in AZ for hours" post.