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Will do! I figured I'd do the transmission mount and exhaust at the same time. I can do it myself and get the shop to align the tips. Can't wait to hear it. So sick of hearing crappy clips.
 
Performed 2,3,4,7,9,13,14,18a, and 23 when the car came out to play this summer. the car feels much more responsive (throttle) and consistent (throttle and shifting). couldn't tell you which mod was the best as they were all done at the same time but i'm super happy with the result.

Thanks for the coolant bypass, better ground mod, and iAT sensor shaving tips, didn't think of those 3
 
I've done the following in this order:

21. Tires
18 a. Shave IAT sensor (free)
1. Start using premium quality 91/92 octane fuel (btw, Costco has the best deal on premium)
3. Better ground mod (free) (did the same to the ground under the CAI as well.)
5. Easy intake mod (free) (Cut out all the louvers)
6. Relocate IAT sensor mod (free)
7. Remove engine cover (free) (Also removed other foam thing at the back of the engine near the driver.)
xx. Installed AEM Intake instead of other intake mods. It sounds way better than stock. More power, IDK... but no deficit.

This week: (update: Done!)
4. Coolant bypass mod (free)
17. Cat-back exhaust
15. Test pipes
23. Trans Mount

I'll have time again in late June for:
20. Rigid collars
8. Catch can
9. Phenolic spacer
13. Intake manifold balancing/porting
14. Throttle body bore
2. Check spark plug gap (free) (bought new plugs as well)
19. Tune

Eventually:
10. Brake pads
12. Hood vents
16. Light weight pulleys
22. Upgrade Brake fluid

Was this car designed for traversing Antarctica? It's like they did everything they could to heat up the air coming into the engine. sheesh!
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
Was this car designed for traversing Antarctica? It's like they did everything they could to heat up the air coming into the engine. sheesh!
:rofl:
 
6. Relocate IAT sensor mod (free)
One of the biggest problems with stock 3.8 air box is the location of the IAT sensor (intake air temperature). It sits in a spot that does not get a lot of moving air and it's sitting in a spot that gets blasted with heat from the engine and coolant pipes.

The problem is that your sensor is seeing hotter temps than what is actually going into your engine. The issue with this is 1) higher temps will reduce timing 2) higher temps will reduce the fuel the ecu adds which will result in leaner AFR's which could lead to timing reduction. The car will compensate fairly quickly with fuel trims, but why not just fix the issue?

This one is very simple. Just drill a hole in the top of the air box and stick the sensor there. Then block off the old hole with a piece of plastic and some gasket maker or RTV.

Image


Image


The result is that the temperature probe nipple is in the direct path of the incoming air stream which will give a much more accurate reading (it won't be 100% accurate, see 18a and 18b).
What did you use to secure the IAT in the new location? Don't see the bolt attached in your pictures.

Been starting to follow this writeup with a few simple changes - lots of fun and butt dyno is happy.
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
What did you use to secure the IAT in the new location? Don't see the bolt attached in your pictures.

Been starting to follow this writeup with a few simple changes - lots of fun and butt dyno is happy.
it's snug enough to just sit there, no bolt. but you could easily drill/tap a small hole for the bolt to hold it down.
 
Update!
I've done the following in this order:

21. Tires
18 a. Shave IAT sensor
1. Start using premium fuel - tried it but...
* I found my car seems to run better on midgrade than premium. Shrug

3. Better ground mod (did the same to the ground under the CAI as well.)
5. Easy intake mod (Cut out all the louvers, added heat reflection stuff all over intake areas.)
6. Relocate IAT (part of x1 below)
X1. Installed AEM Intake
7. Remove engine cover
4. Coolant bypass mod
17. Cat-back exhaust CNT POS
15. Test pipes
23. Trans Mount (Megan)
8. Catch can (Mishimoto)
9. Phenolic spacer
13. Intake manifold balancing/porting (Turbokits)
14. Throttle body bore (Maxbore)
X2. Trans and diff fluids replaced with Redline

To do soon:
20. Rigid collars (if I can get help)
2. Check spark plug gap/new plugs
19. Tune

Eventually:
10. Brake pads (stop tech sport pads)
22. Upgrade Brake fluid

I've spent around 2500 or more so far. After tune, it'll be 3,k. I'm guessing I'll have about 30 hp more than I started. $100/hp
 
Even on 18" rims, you can still fit a 235 and 255 tire. I'm doing it now on 2013+ rims, you just have to keep your profile the same, which will beef your tire up a bit, but most performance tires that are 235/45 and 255/45 are good to go for our 18" rims. It isn't recommended by most of the tire manufacturers to go down a profile size though, as that requires wider wheels for most tires (coming from various manufacturers and tire retailers info sheets).

I'm sitting on 235/45ZR18 and 255/45ZR18 BFGoodrich G-Force Sport Comp2 tires, and they drive waaaaaaay better than both my old OEM size Kumho Ecsta Sport LE Max Performance tires, and the shitty Bridgestone RE092A tires that come on the rims stock. Def get a better, bigger tire if you want those extra couple secs shaved off your lap times!
 
titan2782
Great post. You saved me a ton of time and a ton of trial and error.
thanks.
 
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So there is a way to TUNE a 3.8GT?? I haven't found a single place in Canada/Montana that can. I have done most of what is here, as well as ceramic custom ARK headers. I get a CEL from time to time when I bag on it. And Haltech said they don't have a ECU only a stand alone or whatever, and I don't want to double up on ECU cuz that's a red flag for problems. Where can I get a Tune??? haha I'm in Calgary, Ab. But can make my way around! Cheers (Mines a 2014)
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
So there is a way to TUNE a 3.8GT?? I haven't found a single place in Canada/Montana that can. I have done most of what is here, as well as ceramic custom ARK headers. I get a CEL from time to time when I bag on it. And Haltech said they don't have a ECU only a stand alone or whatever, and I don't want to double up on ECU cuz that's a red flag for problems. Where can I get a Tune??? haha I'm in Calgary, Ab. But can make my way around! Cheers (Mines a 2014)
Contact SFR or BTR. I believe SFR will be in canada this august, but it's in Ontario I think. Would be worth the drive for you to get a custom tune.

Contact either of them.
 
I've done the following in this order:

21. Tires
18 a. Shave IAT sensor (free)
1. Start using premium quality 91/92 octane fuel (btw, Costco has the best deal on premium)
3. Better ground mod (free) (did the same to the ground under the CAI as well.)
5. Easy intake mod (free) (Cut out all the louvers)
6. Relocate IAT sensor mod (free)
7. Remove engine cover (free) (Also removed other foam thing at the back of the engine near the driver.)
xx. Installed AEM Intake instead of other intake mods. It sounds way better than stock. More power, IDK... but no deficit.

This week: (update: Done!)
4. Coolant bypass mod (free)
17. Cat-back exhaust
15. Test pipes
23. Trans Mount

I'll have time again in late June for:
(Now these are all Done! )
20. Rigid collars
8. Catch can
9. Phenolic spacer
13. Intake manifold balancing/porting
14. Throttle body bore
2. Check spark plug gap (free) (bought new plugs as well)
19. Tune

Eventually:
10. Brake pads
12. Hood vents (maybe)
22. Upgrade Brake fluid
All of this is done.
Plus I got a tune from SFR yesterday.
Drove from NC up to PA.
Jay was great. Showed me the canned tune which netted about a 15 hp improvement. Then after some tweaking, another 18 were made. :)

He uses a Mustang dynamometer and not a dyno jet so the numbers looked low but I'm very pleased with 293 at the wheels on an inertia based dyno. Especially since we started at 260. Corrected numbers were around 330.

Numbers schmumbers... This car drives beautifully smooth and powerfully now. :) :) :)
 
Another good mod.

What did you use to secure the IAT in the new location? Don't see the bolt attached in your pictures.

Been starting to follow this writeup with a few simple changes - lots of fun and butt dyno is happy.
Get rid of the turbulence creating OEM air filter box to Throttle body air inlet tube and replace with a silicone 3.500 or 3-1/2 inch I.D.(89mm) 45 degree elbow with 4 inch legs (be careful during cutting to fit ,TAKE YOUR TIME).You will do away with engine (stupid)sound enhancing tube .The left driver's side valve cover vent tube will be relocated were the Air inlet temperature sensor was with a longer 5/8 hose ,pull the plastic tube from the OEM air inlet tube out ,shave it down (or grind) a little and plastic epoxy it in the AIT's former location and then connect the driver side
valve cover vent tube to it .You will notice BETTER throttle response .Make sure it is 3-1/2inches on both ends .Can be purchased on ebay for about $15.00,that's shipping included .
 
Get rid of the turbulence creating OEM air filter box to Throttle body air inlet tube and replace with a silicone 3.500 or 3-1/2 inch I.D.(89mm) 45 degree elbow with 4 inch legs (be careful during cutting to fit ,TAKE YOUR TIME).You will do away with engine (stupid)sound enhancing tube .The left driver's side valve cover vent tube will be relocated were the Air inlet temperature sensor was with a longer 5/8 hose ,pull the plastic tube from the OEM air inlet tube out ,shave it down (or grind) a little and plastic epoxy it in the AIT's former location and then connect the driver side
valve cover vent tube to it .You will notice BETTER throttle response .Make sure it is 3-1/2inches on both ends .Can be purchased on ebay for about $15.00,that's shipping included .
Hey ShortTrack, do you have a picture of this tube? Also, are you saying the total length of the tube should be 8 inches?
 
Hey ShortTrack, do you have a picture of this tube? Also, are you saying the total length of the tube should be 8 inches?
Yes,total length will be 8 inches measured from the end to the inside of 45 degree bend to the other end .You will have to trim it to fit .My car will be featured on GCtuner's web site shortly .If you would care to we could exchange Tele # so I send pic's directly to you .I helped members with NOS installations by tele and it is much easier to get photo's out .If not ,you can look the these tubes up on ebay without any problems and they work better than the OEM tube .I.D will be as stated 89 mm or 3-1/2 inches or 3.500'' .
 
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Downpipes will have bungs for the secondary O2 sensors so no they will not cause a CEL but they also don't make any gains, so you're really just paying for shiny pipes to go with your shiny exhaust.
 
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