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Im all for dropping as much weight as possible. But like my creature comforts as well. Premium stereo Will be jamming while I pass you. I have a carbon trunk with no lift assists and lighwieght modded hinges to properly seal it closed but also stay up when open. locks closed so no rattle or extra noises(too many lightening mods add raw annoying noises). Dropped 80 lbs with that upgrade. I also swapped the motor moon roof system out for a manual open/lock closed with a corning acrylic panel that was 1/4 the glass weight. looks factory seals better even and motors and glass delete almost 60lbs. And I still get to cruse with "the conscience" roof open to her pleasure when needed. Looked at doing the hood but it is already light weight hydro formed aluminum. The carbon replacements netted less than 15lbs... Quite a few hun$ for 15lbs NAW. Saved more swapping the spring assist lock open hinges to simple lever locks saved 18lbs cost 50$+shipping looks factory. Car is silent as a tomb when cruising at 60! try to pass me though and you hear a nasty snarl as I drop gears and floor it. Next mod may be the rear glass to acrylic swap-out. Getting a good one that is really lighter, and holds its shape and doesnt wobble with increased speed seems to be an issue. cheap ones flex the larger the pane and cars have a high low pressure area usually behind the window. I had a ride in a Camaro with a cheapo replacement. When his windows were up your ears had this really annoying flutter in them as that big pane flexed in the back changing pressure inside like a giant subwoofer fluttering. I dont want that!
 

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Fantastic thread. I’m going for the Manifold Riser (i wish there was an step by step video so i can dot it myself) then ported manifolds combo next. Also removing the back seat.
 

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3point8 Performance
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Discussion Starter #123
Fantastic thread. I’m going for the Manifold Riser (i wish there was an step by step video so i can dot it myself) then ported manifolds combo next. Also removing the back seat.
The riser is super easy. If you can change spark plugs, you can install the riser. It comes with step by step instructions and is on sale right now. USe code RISER275 at checkout on 3point8Performance.com website
 

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Was curious with your STAGE 3 MANIFOLDS BK2 3.8, have you broken the 350whp mark yet? This is my final mod for performance then a tune. Because the product is so recent I can't find anything yet on the net with personal results.
 

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3point8 Performance
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Discussion Starter #125
Was curious with your STAGE 3 MANIFOLDS BK2 3.8, have you broken the 350whp mark yet? This is my final mod for performance then a tune. Because the product is so recent I can't find anything yet on the net with personal results.
Just testing the stage 2 upper manifold only netted 8whp on the top end and that was with everything else stock, and I do even more work on the stage 3 so all results have been 100% positive. Feedback from people who have the stage 3 have been very good.

I am finishing up a few things right now, will be getting retuned by Alphaspeed (we're an Alphaspeed dealer btw and we can do remote tuning!), then will get back on the dyno. Based on what I've seen during testing, I should be close to 360whp and I haven't even ported my heads yet.

I've been spending more time at the track working on other projects outside of the engine and I have a lot of other projects lined with in partnership with a few other people to move this platform forward.
 

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SpeedRacer
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@titan2782... Thanks for the time your efforts and information here. I was wondering if you have any resonators on your exhaust..? I have j2 headers and some rasp, but I'm going to add the cross section to the downpipes as you stated and I wanted to remove my resonators. Not worried about the loudness, just wanted to get rid of the rasp..
 

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3point8 Performance
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Discussion Starter #127
@titan2782... Thanks for the time your efforts and information here. I was wondering if you have any resonators on your exhaust..? I have j2 headers and some rasp, but I'm going to add the cross section to the downpipes as you stated and I wanted to remove my resonators. Not worried about the loudness, just wanted to get rid of the rasp..
Have a shop weld in a 2" cross over on your down pipes to help the raps

 

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I would like to add an electric vacuum pump to my BK2 3.8.

Titan2782 you quoted, “A vacuum pump has the inlet hooked up to one or both valve covers. It SUCKS the air from the engine, thus reducing the air pressure build up created by blow due to combustion gases going past the piston rings into the pan. Vacuum pumps vary in the amount of air volume (CFM) they can suck so the potential VACUUM a pump can create is LIMITED by the amount of air it can flow (CFM). The exhaust from the vacuum pump is sent to a BREATHER tank with a filter on the top, which is intended to retain any fluids (moisture, unspent fuel, air born oil) sucked from the engine. Exhaust air goes to the atmosphere thru the air filter.”

Can you post an image or write up the route of the hoses to the pump/catchcans?

I have 2 catch cans on my car, one on the PCV side and one on the drivers side. How would I run the hoses to incorporate both catch cans and the electric vacuum pump you used. Also how is the WOT switch connected and where is it connected? Thanks
 

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I would hookup vacuum pump on the driver side valve cover - have catch can prior to vacuum pump and exhaust vacuum pump into the intake so you would not have any unpleasant smell in your cabin.

There is no sense incorporating both catch catch cans, one catch can between valve cover and vac pump will be enough.

Pump switch can be done via vacuum demend switch or rpm window switch. Curious to see how Dustin did his.

- Andrey

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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3point8 Performance
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Discussion Starter #130
I would like to add an electric vacuum pump to my BK2 3.8.

Titan2782 you quoted, “A vacuum pump has the inlet hooked up to one or both valve covers. It SUCKS the air from the engine, thus reducing the air pressure build up created by blow due to combustion gases going past the piston rings into the pan. Vacuum pumps vary in the amount of air volume (CFM) they can suck so the potential VACUUM a pump can create is LIMITED by the amount of air it can flow (CFM). The exhaust from the vacuum pump is sent to a BREATHER tank with a filter on the top, which is intended to retain any fluids (moisture, unspent fuel, air born oil) sucked from the engine. Exhaust air goes to the atmosphere thru the air filter.”

Can you post an image or write up the route of the hoses to the pump/catchcans?

I have 2 catch cans on my car, one on the PCV side and one on the drivers side. How would I run the hoses to incorporate both catch cans and the electric vacuum pump you used. Also how is the WOT switch connected and where is it connected? Thanks
I'm working with someone to develop an actual kit using a better pump. You'll put the pump in between the driver side valve cover (vent side). You'll optimally want to stick the catch can between the vent and the pump.

The switch can be setup on a vacuum switch (i'd recommend 0-5in/hg activation). That will be the easiest way, but I have mine on a micro switch attached to the pedal.
 
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Thanks for cleaning it up for me. I’ve been googling 1998 Ford Cobra Electric Vacuum pump but can’t find the correct part number. If I cannot locate that pump and have to buy something else what specs should the pump have for vacuum, cfm etc.
 

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3point8 Performance
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Discussion Starter #134
Are there any new “mods” that are worth doing in addition to these? Perhaps a V3 of this upgrade path? ;)
yes this^
We're working on some things. There are plenty of new mods out there including the manifold riser, our stage 2/3 manifolds, our ported oil pump pickup, E85 (and some related products we're developing) and we're also working on some high rev stuff. Once we have that taken care of, we'll be making power past 7200 rpm.

At that point, I'll probably do an updated build guide.
 

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We're working on some things. There are plenty of new mods out there including the manifold riser, our stage 2/3 manifolds, our ported oil pump pickup, E85 (and some related products we're developing) and we're also working on some high rev stuff. Once we have that taken care of, we'll be making power past 7200 rpm.

At that point, I'll probably do an updated build guide.
Thanks Dustin!
 

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We're working on some things. There are plenty of new mods out there including the manifold riser, our stage 2/3 manifolds, our ported oil pump pickup, E85 (and some related products we're developing) and we're also working on some high rev stuff. Once we have that taken care of, we'll be making power past 7200 rpm.

At that point, I'll probably do an updated build guide.

This guide is the absolute best thing this legend has left behind. Only source anyone would use to upgrade and do things right, only if he was here we would have a V3 and maybe V4..

RiP Dustin
 

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This guide is the absolute best thing this legend has left behind. Only source anyone would use to upgrade and do things right, only if he was here we would have a V3 and maybe V4..

RiP Dustin
Very Well said and he will be missed!!
 

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His wife has been super cool and still running 3point8. I had a small issue with my stage 2 Throttle body. She gave me the option to send mine to her or refund the difference. I sent mine.(arrived to her late in the day) It was done the next day and reshipped immediately. Perfect now.
She mentioned the shop still has the guys there doing the work as before.
I wouldn't hesitate to keep using them. Stage 3 😁
 
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