^^ But these 'genius' engineers also say 5.49 qt when I use about 4.6-4.8 to hit the full line. lol
But to answer the OP's rhetorical questionm no, it is not too thin....for those that didn't read the article and think he is stating a fact that it is too thin (what I first thought when reading the title). And though as Tufast shows our manual doesn't have 0w in it, it doesn't mean that you can't use it, it might say don't use a thinner grade oil, but 0w isn't thinner.....
That was a good article, but I only agree with 90% of the stuff he said. Namely the oil thinning not being an issue, I didn't agree with that part.
I do understand that much of engine wear occurs from starting and it being too thick, and it is great of him to explain why. It was also funny to read where he talks about people with engine leaks giong to a thicker oil causing a simple gasket issue compounded with massive engine wear and failure. I think it is the same reason people say seafoam 'broke' their engine by causing it to leak lol. It didn't break your engine, it did what it is advertized as diong, it cleaned it! You engine is just so old and in bad shape, you now have oil leaks that were 'sealed' up with gunk and sludge.
Though the one great thing that I think he kind of covered but not as much as he repeated the other stuff is how great synthetics are. They cling SOOOO much better, and even a 20w synthetic will benefit you over a 5w dino. A 20w might be to thick to flow properly at 75f, but it doesn't need flow as many synthetics can run a min or so (at idle) with no oil flow.
The other thing he showed in a chart but didn't mention is how synthetics only come in ow, that is kind of how you can tell it is a synthetic without research. This is because that split would be to far which he talked about with VI additives ect, that is why mineral oils generally 5w20 or a 10w60, it is rare to see a 5w60 or a 0w30 dini oil, they would break down way too fast.
I do find it interesting that he spoke of oil getting thicker over time, I think he needed to clarify that only the 75f rating gets thicker, the 212 gets thinner? He siad synthetics don't break down at all? I am not sure I agree with that. And I have UOA's that prove different. They do get thinner at 212, especially when fuel mixes in the oil. The cSt goes down. But I do understand what he means about the 75f getting thicker.
And weight just makes it more simple, I don't care if it is technically correct, just like winter grade makes it simple, as long as you are using them both properly. I think the large issue is people using "w" to abbreviate weight, they should use wt at least if they don't spell it out, but thin, of "w" as winter, it is just a good reminded to know that we are talking about the colder temps, even though 75f isn't nessisarily "winter", it is way coler thatn 212f.
BUT, my main beef with his article is he wrote this to the avg joe OEM car who rarely if ever goes WOt or redlines. Sure most of the engine wear is from startup with those cars and everything he said is true with reagards to that. BUT you do need a thicker oil if you go WOT often and hit redline. Which many of the GC drivers are car enthusiast do. When you drive harder you are increasing the stress on the parts and need a thicker oil to lubricate/cusion the parts from contacting one another. 10cSt might be fine for 1000-4000rpm, but I am not sure if I agree with that at 5krpm+. Though he did talk abou the indy cars running 15krpm using a 10 weight or 20 weight. Though I am sure the clearances and pumps are much more different on an indy car, so I don't think you should use one to compare a factory car to. So sure, you might get a slightly slower flow or a higher psi from a thicker oil, but I would trade that over too thin of an oil and some damage. Using too thick of an oil at startup will slowly damge your engine over time.....a long time. But using too thin an oil can cause very servere damage and/or catostrophic failure almost instantly. So I would be a bit more cautious on that instant catostrophic side than the slow little bit over time side. That and 20 weight has a pretty huge variance in cSt depending on the brand. A 20 weight could be a 5.6-9.29cSt, so first of all, you aren't even hitting this 10 cSt that he recommended, but you are close IF you buy the right brand. But, if you could be using a 5.6 which is terrible, and if that breaks down at all..... not good for the guy that goes WOT to redline in that car. But a 30 weight runs 9.3-12.49cSt. So if you get the bad stuff, you could be slightly under, but if you get the good stuff, you are over it or right on it, and if you shear a bit and go down, you are still above the 10cSt, so you are safer for the next time you decide to go WOT to redline. Probably the reason ferarri recommends a 60 weight for the tracked cars, thciker oil is needed when you push it and go to redline.
I also thought it was good of him to differentiate between water cooling and oil cooling.
And comparing a 75w90 gear oil to a 0w40 motor oil was retarded, or I didn't get the point anyway.
I do agree with him to use a 0w, I have done that ever since I started leaning/researching about oils, and you can drive up to 3250rpm, though I tend to want to be a little safe and I drove 2750rpm right on a cold start in the winter. It heats your oil up faster and you it is thin enough that I feel safe that it doesn't do any damage or wear and my UOA agreed with me. I turned my car on, waited about 5-10 secs (but this isn't waiting time per se, but more of getting seatbelt on ect.) starting driving and kept the rpm between 2500-2750rpm to heat my car and self up faster lol, and the oil. Now I would never do that with a dino oil, those as he said become like honey and they take forever to warm up and a heater blanket is recommended if you used dino oil below 30*f. So I would recommend a 0w30 for the enthusialst of this car, and have see good UAO's with PP/PU 0e30, Amsoil0w30, and Castrol Syntec (European Formula/GC 0w30), and for the DD soccer moms out there that bought this car and never go above 5krpm or ever go WOT, a 0w20 wiehg twould probably be fine, and you would get better gas mileage, and as said above maybe a few more hp, but then again, if you are seeking HP, you are probably going WOT in which case you would want the 30 weight. I did see a 1-3mpg loss from a 20 weight to a 30 weight, it is thicker, it you have pumping losses.
