Installation

Note: For the Exceladyne clutch you will have to make a few preparations that are not necessary for most other clutch installs which I will go over at this time. If you are not installing the Exceladyne twin disc you can skip on to where I describe reassembly.

Exceladyne twin disc clutch parts stacked in order of installation.

Seperate parts except for discs & friction plates which are still zip tied together in their appropriate order.

Clutch discs & basket.

Clutch assemblies comparison.

First off the Exceladyne clutch does not come with a pilot bearing, so you will need to press out your old pilot bearing from you dual mass flywheel using a hydraulic press & then press it back into the Exceladyne single mass flywheel. You will want to make sure that it is on the engine side of the flywheel with the seal facing towards the transmission.

Prior to bearing being pressed in.

After bearing has been pressed in.

In addition, the Exceladyne flywheel does not come with a starter ring gear, so the OEM one must be used. In order to remove the starter ring gear from the OEM flywheel it has to be heated lightly using a torch so that it will expand enough to be taken off. Once it is off it will need to be set on the new Exceladyne single mass flywheel & allowed to cool. As it cools it will shrink to fit nice & snug on the new flywheel.

Pics of OEM dual mass flywheel with starter ring gear still in place & new Exceladyne single mass flywheel that starter ring gear needs to be swapped to.

Prior to starter ring being installed.

After starter ring being installed.

Now you will need to install the clutch basket ring onto Exceladyne single mass flywheel using (18) size 8 hex bolts supplied with clutch. You will do this by inserting each bolt through the SMF from the engine side & threading each into every hole on the basket's threaded side. Apply red LockTite to threads of each & every one prior to installing. Once all of them are installed you will need to torque them down to just under 20 ft/lbs.

Time to install the single mass flywheel using the same (7) T60 torx bolts that were used on the OEM one.
Tightening torque : 90~110 Nm (9~11 kgf.m, 65.1~79.5 lb-ft).

We can now slide the first clutch disc into place followed by the friction plate & then the second disc along with the top friction plate. These pieces are designed to only go one way so no worries of getting it wrong. Besides, Beyond Redline ships them with tie straps to ensure correct order of installation. Once in place, use clutch alignment tool to ensure proper gear alignment for pilot shaft.

Exceladyne clutch cover can then be installed using (8) size 8 suppied hex bolts & washers provided with clutch. Apply red LockTite to threads of each & every one prior to installing. Once all of them are installed you will need to torque them down to just under 20 ft/lbs.

Transmission reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.

Start by placing the transmission back on the jack if it was removed. Make sure to place it on the flat area behind the cross so it is sitting flush on the jack plate. Then move the jack carefully back under the car aligning it with the transmission tunnel & slightly back from the engine. Once you are satisfied with the location begin lifting very slowly paying close attention to its balance. As it gets higher in the transmission tunnel move it forward slowly so that it never touches the roof of the tunnel & can move freely. As you approach the engine take extra precaution to see that the transmission input shaft is aligned with the clutch discs & flywheel. It is important that the tranny be level with the engine at this point. Once you have the transmission up against the engine as far as it will go with the input shaft inserted, you will find that there is still a small gap of about an inch or so. This gap will have to be drawn together using the bolts that connect the engine to the transmission.

The (4) shorter 14mm bolts that look like they could self tap are to be used along the bottom of the transmission on the engine side & the (4) slightly longer 14mm bolts are to be used on each side just above the shorter ones & up top on transmission side.

Start with (2) of the slightly longer 14mm bolts installing them from the engine side just above the bottom 4 bolt holes. These (2) 14mm bolts will actually go through a dial pin on each side used to help align the transmission with the engine. Use these to draw the transmission to the engine some, tightening until they become snug.
Tightening torque : 35~47 Nm (3.5~4.7 kgf.m, 25.3~34.0 lb-ft)

Next install the (4) shorter 14mm bolts into the lower 4 bolt holes along the bottom from the engine side until they are snug careful not to pull the bottom of the transmission in further than the upper portion. In other words keep the gap even all the way around as you seat the tranny to the engine.
Tightening torque : 43~49 Nm (4.3~4.9 kgf.m, 31.1~35.4 lb-ft)

Note: The bottom (4) bolts will have to be tightened with a wrench, because a ratchet will not fit in the limited space available.

Now you can install the other (2) longer 14mm bolts up top on the transmission side until they are snug.
Tightening torque : 35~47 Nm (3.5~4.7 kgf.m, 25.3~34.0 lb-ft)

Finally you can install the (2) long 14mm starter motor mounting bolts until snug.
Tightening torque : 43~55 Nm (4.3~5.5 kgf.m, 31.1~39.8 lb-ft)

Note: I used air ratchet on these due to the length of each bolt.

Reinstall the front anti-sway bar using the (4) short 14mm bolts removed from it.
Tightening torque : 43~49 Nm (4.3~4.9 kgf.m, 31.1~35.4 lb-ft)

Once all bolts around the bell housing are snug you can tighten them down a little at a time keeping the gap between the engine & the transmission constantly even until they finally come together. Now that it is seated you can begin to torque the bolts down by hand & finally with a torque wrench using the above supplied torque specs.

Note: Not all bolts will be accessable with the torque wrench & socket, so do as many as possible paying attention to how much effort it took to tighten each. After which you will torque the final few that you could not get on with the torque wrench by hand guestimating how much torque is adequate based off of how much effort it took on the others.

Reinstall the rear transmission bracket by installing the (4) 14mm bolts. Then set aside the supporting jack.
Tightening torque : 50~65 Nm (5.0~6.5 kgf.m, 36.2~47.0 lb-ft)

Reinstall the the shifter base bracket using the (2) pins you removed during disassembly pushing them in from the outside inward & rotating down until the clip catches in the teeth holding them in place.

Note: These are assymetrical & therefore will only work on one particular side R & L.

Move to the other end of the shift rod near the shift lever & reinstall the pin to hold it in place followed by the locking clip you removed during disassembly. Next reinstall the boot cover back over underside of the shifter assembly.

Reinstall the exhaust heat shield using the (6) 10mm bolts that were removed.

Note: Washers may be needed on a couple of them to help hold it in place.

Reinstall the propellar shaft by sliding it forward until it falls into place aligning the bolt holes. Then reinsert the (3) 19mm bolts facing toward the engine followed by their nuts on the other side. Tighten each one down using ratchet on the bolt & wrench on the nut.
Tightening torque : 90~110 Nm (9~11 kgf.m, 65.1~79.5 lb-ft)

Note: I used air ratchet on these due to the length of each bolt & effort needed to tighten them.

Finally reInstall the misc hoses, lines & sensors.
Reinstall the CKP sensor by installing the 10mm bolt.
Reinstall the starter ground with 12mm bolt.
Reinstall wiring harness with 10mm bolt.
Reinstall the clutch hose to the C.S.C assembly inserting the clip back in to hold it in place.
Reconnect the back up lamp switch connector on top of tranny.
Reinstall the ground wire near tail stock on passengers side by installing 10mm bolt.

Refill the transmission fluid if it was drained using the fluid pump.

Bleed the clutch system.

While the car is still on jack stands have someone assist you by sitting in the car & depressing the clutch pedal when asked to do so during the process. You will need a 10mm wrench to loosen the bleeder valve on the C.S.C assembly.

First remove the reservoir cap & place a fluid drain pan under the car where the clutch bleeder valve is. Get under the vehicle & remove the little rubber cover from the bleeder valve. Then while holding the C.S.C assembly, turn the bleeder nut with the 10mm wrench until fluid emits. Continue allowing fluid to drain for a little while, this is known as a gravity bleed & will get most of the air out of the system. Once you feel most of the air is out, tighten the bleeder nut. Return to the reservoir to add fluid to the full mark & reinstall the cap.

Now have your assistant depress the clutch pedal & release it (pull it back up if necessary) several times (approx 10) to build pedal pressure. Return underneath the vehicle & loosen the bleeder nut while your assistant is holding the pedal down on the final pump of the series. Once fluid stops flowing, tighten the nut back up & ask your assistant to release the pedal (pull it up if necessary).

This time have your assistant depress the clutch pedal & release it (pull it back up if necessary) 3 times to build pedal pressure. While still underneath the vehicle, loosen the bleeder nut while your assistant is holding the pedal down on the final pump of the series. Once fluid stops flowing tighten the nut back up & ask your assistant to release the pedal (pull it up if necessary). Continue the 3 pump series for a total of 3 times.

Finally have your assistant depress the clutch pedal & release it (pull it back up if necessary) 1 single time to build pedal pressure. While still underneath the vehicle, loosen the bleeder nut while your assistant is holding the pedal down. Once fluid stops flowing tighten the nut back up & ask your assistant to release the pedal (pull it up if necessary). Continue with the single pump series for a total of 10 times.

Note: There will more air in the system if the internal slave cylinder was replaced during the process & this is the reason for the elaborate bleeding process I described above. Those who do not replace the slave cylinder assembly may not require this much bleeding, however I have found that the hydraulic system on our cars does require a bit more bleeding than most with a slight variance on method.

Connect (-) terminal to the battery.

Test drive....

 

:bowdown:

 

Indeed. May get me to clean out the garage enough to start the removal.

 

Tufast, you have outdone yourself again! Great DIY!

 

Great write-up Jerry!

 

This will come in handy when my clutch slips instead of the tires! Thanks for the write up!

 

Thanks & you are welcome guys. I always try to do a DIY the way I would prefer to read one in order to make the job easier for me.

BTW, I have a few more coming in the near future.

 

Hey Tufast. I have a few questions as I'm getting ready to do my clutch. What fluid did you use for the Master Cylinder? Do you happen to have a part number for the Slave Cylinder? And the torque specs you provided for things such as the pressure plate and flywheel bolts...are they Hyundai specs or unique to the Exceladyne clutch? Any help would be appreciated.

 

Driving impressions....

First off, I had to to relearn how to drive with this clutch & I've driven agressive clutches before. I actually stahled the vehicle several times during the first week after install & spun the tires many times on accident while taking off. The clutch is as smooth as butter & grips like sand paper though with a feel of confidence. It engages at the very top of the pedal covering a short span & allows easy gear engagement in every gear. It clamps down with authority when released quickly, but is a little tricky to feather out moderately.

There is no chatter in any gear nor whine at any rpm. However, there is one drawback of this clutch that makes itself very obvious, there is a scraping noise when you have the pedal depressed & the clutch is disengaged. This noise had me worried at first rechecking my work & pulling the tranny several times to get to the bottom of it. I prefer to figure issues out on my own if all possible prior to involving others get involved. Finally I decided to get in touch with Tim@BR through pm to figure out the issue. Eventually I sent a video displaying the noise & me disassembling the clutch to show it was installed correctly. Tim & Luke got right back with me via phone to confirm that it was normal. The noise turned out to be the clutch discs floating in the basket when disengaged. They told me all cars with this clutch have the same noise & even their shop car has it. Shortly there after I had the opportunity to hear MSUGeoman's car in person as well as ride in it to confirm this is the case with that car as well.

Anywho, I was a little preturbed at first because I hadn't expected the noise to accompany the daily operation & felt it was a little embarrasing at first. I conveyed my feelings regarding this to Tim@BR who then inquired what I might suggest be done. I mentioned details of swapping the clutch for the Clutch Master Stage4 they also offer on their website. After getting with the owner he got back to me & agreed to do this if I so chose. I felt this was above & beyond normal customer service for a business to take back a used product (even slightly) to exchange it for a different product due to a characteristic of that product & not a defect. So I just wanted to say thanks to Tim, Luke & the whole Beyond Redline staff for what they do for the community & how they treat their customers. I've since decided to keep the clutch with its one flaw in lieu of switching for a single disc setup l might be less happy with. I doubt the performance would match my current clutch & perhaps there may be negative characteristics that may accompany the replacement unit.

I will give updates on how the clutch performs as I increase power going to it.

 

Haha, I had the same learning curve when my twin plate went in. Its hard to get used to that feathering out at stop lights without blasting off like a total f*cktard or stalling like a noob.

That clutch chatter when the plates are floating in the basket caught me off guard too. My mechanic thought the throwout bearing was FUBAR, but after I talked with my supplier he explained to me how that noise is just a product of the twin plate clutch.

Does your flywheel make much noise at idle? Mine rattles like a bitch lol! It chatters up to just under 2k and then all is heavenly. I'm used to it now, and I disregard all the stares I get from pedestrians.

 

I wouldn't even call it a chatter, because I think of that term being used when two pieces are making contact with some pressure. I've noticed chatter before on racing single disc clutches. This is a scraping noise like when your brake are first going metal to metal when worn out right before the grinding begins.

I was wondering if all twin discs made this noise due to similar design. Has anyone installed the Excedy twin disc? I never thought it was the TOB, but was worried I might have bent the input shaft when I had used it to press the first pilot bearing in to the other side of the flywheel.

My clutch makes hardly any noise what-so-ever at idle or at speed, with torque applied or not, except when I have the pedal depressed. At idle when at stop I put the car in neutral & there is no noise.

I pretty much don't care about the stares I get from anyone anymore & it promotes movement of other drivers when I depress the clutch (the noise scares them LoL).

 

Yeah, I don't think chatter was the word I was thinking of, you described it well. What I have in my head is aluminum pot lids sliding together.

I guess my flywheel must be lighter or something. Funny thing is, it depends on idle load. If the A/C is on it chatters, if the A/C is off no chatter (or very little). Sometimes its just random, lots of chatter, little chatter.

My friend commented about the noise one day. He enjoys the noise because most people would just think its something broken, but in fact it is the exact opposite. The looks people give me don't bother me. They can't see me giggling at their weird looks, that's what the tint is for!

 

How long did the r&i of trans take excluding the fw and clutch?

 

R&R M/T = about 3-4 hrs depending knowledge & ability. Also tools make a huge difference (i.e lift & kneumatic tools etc). My 1st time in my garage at home on jack stands was about 2.5 hrs tear down & about 3.5 hrs going back together including clutch. I got quicker the more I pulled it.

 

This is awesome thanks man, this guide should be more then sufice to get the job done..im going to be installing a competition stage 3w/ flywheel soon.

 

You're welcome. I just completed installing coil-overs, but didn't think a guide would be necessary considering how many of them there already are out there for that mod.

However, I will be doing a short one on sway bars soon since I've noticed a couple of people inquiring.

 

Bump to the top

 

Well i did a perfect CC Stage 2 today thanks in part to this DIY and part of it is cuz IM JUST THAT GOOD lol...didnt really run into any problems at all.

 

Did you use a lift or jack stands?

 

I followed this DIY when installing my competition clutch. We managed with a jack and jackstands, but if you have access to a lift and tranny jack, it would be much easier.

 

I used a lift and tranny jack. when it came to tightening the tranny back together i didnt use any torque i just did a good and snug fit.....but with the flywheel and clutch i torqued down to specification.

 

Just used this for reference when I did my comp clutch stage 2 install. Very easy install. Did it with jack stands. Had alot of stop and go having to feed my 9month old son. But other then that the install can be all done and had for just a few hours of continuous work. Thanks for the pictures and walk through.

 

Quick question, Is it ok to use a cordless impact wrench on the flywheel bolts when breaking them loose?

 

With the torx bit you have to use, my personal opinion no, you could break your bit. I'm the believer in breaking them loose with leverage and a breaker bar. A smooth consistant movement as opposed to a impact gun, nothing wrong with them but in places like these I rather break them loose by hand then run them out.

I'm sure it has been done though.

 

I do have a t60 impact bit so I doubt it will break but I was just thinking about it causing damage to something.

 

Installed my stage 3.5 earlier today, only took me about 1.5hrs. Partially due to the fact that I memorized this install guide. Also installed my torque solutions shifter bushings while i was there. Access to a lift and tranny jack realllly help speed the process along. I must say this clutch is nice, the engagement is smooth and the grip feels noticeably different compared to the stock junk. I COULD NOT even roll into boost on the stock clutch without my RPMs raging off and my speed not even moving.

I only have about 21K on the car and just under 320wtq. This clutch is a must and this DIY was spot on. Thanks Tufast!!

 

4142138000 is the slave cylinder/throwout beating part number

 

I like Valvoline synthetic. You can get it about anywhere and it works great.

 

Installed competition clutch today stage 2 !yeah!

I am only at 23500 km at BR stage 1 but my clutch started slipping in 5th and 6th and it annoyed the crap out of me so I finally installed my clutch which I purchased months ago waiting for the time to do it. So I figured its winter here in Edmonton, break in time might get me to spring. When I can finally whore it out. Did the job and it went flawless. Had a couple peeps help me out. Bought them dinner and beer. It was an all around good day. Hyundai dealer in town wanted $1100 dollars for just an install and I said NO. We did it in about 4 hours on jack stands. It was an all around good time. 0 problems. This car is so easy to work on. Test drive was good. The noise everyone is talking about is minimal. My wife probably won't even notice after the first ten times she has stalled the car. 1st gear was an itch I felt like a newby but after a few stop and go's she was good. Can't wait to put full throttle to it in the spring. Thanks Tufast for your detailed write up.

 

awesome write up