[danperezsax]

This is true but tens of millions of cars drive around for years and years without their ECU over heating, under the hood. For close to $2K the Haltech should not be overheating. Plenty of people have mounted their CMD right next to their exhaust maniofld and turbo without it over heating as well. Granted the Haltech does more than the CMD they definitely should have done more to prevent heat issues. It almost sounds like they aren't actually using the case to dissipate any heat, which they should be. If they are using the case to dissipate heat then they need to perhaps look at their thermal compounds, changing material of the case, or adding more fins.

They just got unlucky with a supplier, I think. They tested extensively in Australia and Arizona, with no heat issues. Everybody with a Haltech has not reported problems, which is why I think it's a supplier QC issue... some TPSs are bad, others are not. They have not told me this, but it's what I think. They told me the internal electronics are rated to 225* or 250*, and straight up told me "just don't let the housing get past 250* or the board temp get to 200* and you should be alright." That's what they expect. Thus far, I don't think I've EVER seen my board temp break 100*...

 

[ElDominio]

They just got unlucky with a supplier, I think. They tested extensively in Australia and Arizona, with no heat issues. Everybody with a Haltech has not reported problems, which is why I think it's a supplier QC issue... some TPSs are bad, others are not. They have not told me this, but it's what I think. They told me the internal electronics are rated to 225* or 250*, and straight up told me "just don't let the housing get past 250* or the board temp get to 200* and you should be alright." That's what they expect. Thus far, I don't think I've EVER seen my board temp break 100*...

I've never seen board temp go over 95, yet I see them fail when ECU Temp reaches about 165F..... tf?

This is true but tens of millions of cars drive around for years and years without their ECU over heating, under the hood. For close to $2K the Haltech should not be overheating. Plenty of people have mounted their CMD right next to their exhaust maniofld and turbo without it over heating as well. Granted the Haltech does more than the CMD they definitely should have done more to prevent heat issues. It almost sounds like they aren't actually using the case to dissipate any heat, which they should be. If they are using the case to dissipate heat then they need to perhaps look at their thermal compounds, changing material of the case, or adding more fins.

This is exactly why I say the throttle controller is to blame. constantly varying a DC output is really... hot?

 

[Red Raspberry]

You can take the weather strip off the back of the hood. This opens it up 1/2" or so with no raising of the hood.

I think pulling air in from the cowl with a fan and some duct hose blowing on the Haltech would cure the problem. Maybe a heat sink on the ECU where the fan blows the air.

 

[curtisb]

My car has been acting up hear lately I cant control boost ac works them doesnt the rpms idle low them revs up for lil then comes back down .I have some cut inbetween gears or something everything on the car works fine but the ecu .im realy sure the ecu is not functioning rite any more

ball so hard

 

[cris90]

can someone speculate what in the ECU is generating heat?

i'm guessing there is some kinda of circuit that generrate higher voltage, a trannnsformer somewhere, only thing i can think of that generate that much heat.

Do ECU's have spinning hard drives? i doubt it.
Processor should generate so muhc heat

Any ideas?

 

[ElDominio]

can someone speculate what in the ECU is generating heat?

i'm guessing there is some kinda of circuit that generrate higher voltage, a trannnsformer somewhere, only thing i can think of that generate that much heat.

Do ECU's have spinning hard drives? i doubt it.
Processor should generate so muhc heat

Any ideas?

No.
I'm going to quote myself

...
This is exactly why I say the throttle controller is to blame. constantly varying a DC output is really... hot?

...
Most of the case was cold, but towards where the e-throttle driver is (like the middle), it got pretty hot to the touch.
...

...
rspecwhite: the thing is, I think the throttle driver is to blame, and insulating the Haltech will just aggravate the problem, since it will be harder to liberate the heat it produces :/...

Yes, there is a heatsink on what I suspect is the the throttle control circuit/driver/whateveritis. The only thing is that everything is packed so tight, it's really thin, and it's literally a piece of aluminum (or some metal that looks like it) with no fins.

That's what I mean, I've always said the throttle driver/control thing is to blame, so moving it around could perhaps not do so much, but I doubt it'll malufnction inside the cabin...

 

[Paps511]

My car has been acting up hear lately I cant control boost ac works them doesnt the rpms idle low them revs up for lil then comes back down .I have some cut inbetween gears or something everything on the car works fine but the ecu .im realy sure the ecu is not functioning rite any more

ball so hard

tell ET. he sent me a revised tune with a less aggressive idle setting, and it got rid of that.

Since he fixed me, i have not had any idle issue

 

[curtisb]

tell ET. he sent me a revised tune with a less aggressive idle setting, and it got rid of that.

Since he fixed me, i have not had any idle issue

i have been talking to him past few days

 

[Rspecwhite]

new fans, since I burnt up the Xbox ones

Now one is push, one is pull. I made sure to seal up all edges nice and airtight, let's see how this configuration goes.

rspecwhite: the thing is, I think the throttle driver is to blame, and insulating the Haltech will just aggravate the problem, since it will be harder to liberate the heat it produces :/

I totally disagree!. Mine ran perfect as long as I was moving. When I would stop, and park the car for 15 min or so, the ecu would do weird things when restarted until it cooled down. Kinda hard for the throttle driver to be generating heat when it's turned off. I have done a bit of testing, and in my case , I feel that the issue is due to the under hood temps which are higher than stock due to exhaust manifold, and lack of heat shields.

 

[ElDominio]

I totally disagree!. Mine ran perfect as long as I was moving. When I would stop, and park the car for 15 min or so, the ecu would do weird things when restarted until it cooled down. Kinda hard for the throttle driver to be generating heat when it's turned off. I have done a bit of testing, and in my case , I feel that the issue is due to the under hood temps which are higher than stock due to exhaust manifold, and lack of heat shields.

But then, why does it happen to me with the stock manifold and heat shields?

I've had to deal with two Haltechs that shut off even while moving (at 55mph on the highway, mind you), I disagree. But you give your idea a shot and tell us how it works!

 

[genjuice]

Engine bay heat is directly and proportionately related to high temps of the ecu.
I can be on the dyno for three hours with the hood open and never reaches past 120F , take it off the dyno and drive it on the street I can see 60f plus increase.

 

[danperezsax]

It's both, guys. Stock, you're still gonna see problems due to high ambient temps and the fact that if you idle long enough, everything in the bay will heatsoak to 180 degrees eventually.

 

[ElDominio]

Engine bay heat is directly and proportionately related to high temps of the ecu.
I can be on the dyno for three hours with the hood open and never reaches past 120F , take it off the dyno and drive it on the street I can see 60f plus increase.

I've had a client's car shut down on me, hood open, on the dyno after about 10 pulls. (after driving to the dyno)

 

[genjuice]

Probably the first generation ECU, those things would overheat in Artic!!!

 

[ElDominio]

Probably the first generation ECU, those things would overheat in Artic!!!

Bingo. It IS a first gen, the two most problematic ones I deal with are first gens, but it's been a slight hassle to get them exchanged :/

But, this still means that although the new ones are revised, they still probably suffer from the same thing. I don't know (and don't think) if the throttle is controlled with stepper, but they should be at least kind of similar, and DC motor drivers running very hot with stepper motor

These components naturally get very hot because of the current required to make them work, so it's only logical to think this is to blame for the widespread overheating of them. You should open up your Haltech (3.5 Allen I think, two of them), and look at the heatsink yourself. They have no seal/gasket to ruin so you can see the insides yourself.

 

[genjuice]

Bingo. It IS a first gen, the two most problematic ones I deal with are first gens, but it's been a slight hassle to get them exchanged :/

But, this still means that although the new ones are revised, they still probably suffer from the same thing. I don't know (and don't think) if the throttle is controlled with stepper, but they should be at least kind of similar, and DC motor drivers running very hot with stepper motor

These components naturally get very hot because of the current required to make them work, so it's only logical to think this is to blame for the widespread overheating of them. You should open up your Haltech (3.5 Allen I think, two of them), and look at the heatsink yourself. They have no seal/gasket to ruin so you can see the insides yourself.

Ya I 100% agree , first gen was primarily an internal issue, had a failure in 15 degree ambient, and burnt my hand on the ECU, (not kidding)
Second gen is much better, only problem is their firmware is limited so I cant get everything perfect because of that.

 

[ecarca]

Question: how do we know if we have a first or second generation? Any serial?
Thanks

 

[ElDominio]

Yep, serial number, but you need to contact Adam to find out.

 

[HaltechAdam]

Hey guys,

Happy to report that initial testing with the extension harness shows very promising results. As has been speculated in this thread, there are three main causes to this issue.

The first being that the throttle driver chip inside the ECU generates a LOT of heat, which cannot be helped, just heat sunk as best we can.

Second, The Ignition drivers inside the ECU also generate a good amount of heat.

Couple that with higher than stock ambient temps under the hood, and you have an oven, cooking a hot coal, that is sealed in an aluminum case....

We have done everything that we can to combat these temperatures at great expense to ourselves. Someone mentioned that the ECU should be able to sustain more heat, I invite anyone who feels this way to wire me 10,000 so that I may load your genesis ECU up with military grade electronics with a higher heat rating .

As far as issues are concerned, I (Adam) and we (Haltech) have gone more than out of our way to take care of Genesis customers and find a viable (and cost effective) solution for this to work as everyone expects.

If you have a concern about your ECU, or need assistance in any way, I invite you to email me about it (adam@haltech.com) I will handle your situation and help you in any way that I can.

With that said, there is no need to come onto a forum and whine about an issue unless you have contacted me (or your tuner) about it. Generally I have the answer, or I will find one for you, or your tuner should be able to fix your tune for you. We have tried, and will continue to try to make the best product available on the market, and we hope to continue to serve you (the Gencoupe community) as best we can.

Happy Tuning.

Adam
Sales and Technical Support
Haltech USA
Adam@Haltech.com

 

[ElDominio]

Hey guys,

Happy to report that initial testing with the extension harness shows very promising results. As has been speculated in this thread, there are three main causes to this issue.

The first being that the throttle driver chip inside the ECU generates a LOT of heat, which cannot be helped, just heat sunk as best we can.

Second, The Ignition drivers inside the ECU also generate a good amount of heat.

Couple that with higher than stock ambient temps under the hood, and you have an oven, cooking a hot coal, that is sealed in an aluminum case....

We have done everything that we can to combat these temperatures at great expense to ourselves. Someone mentioned that the ECU should be able to sustain more heat, I invite anyone who feels this way to wire me 10,000 so that I may load your genesis ECU up with military grade electronics with a higher heat rating .

As far as issues are concerned, I (Adam) and we (Haltech) have gone more than out of our way to take care of Genesis customers and find a viable (and cost effective) solution for this to work as everyone expects.

If you have a concern about your ECU, or need assistance in any way, I invite you to email me about it (adam@haltech.com) I will handle your situation and help you in any way that I can.

With that said, there is no need to come onto a forum and whine about an issue unless you have contacted me (or your tuner) about it. Generally I have the answer, or I will find one for you, or your tuner should be able to fix your tune for you. We have tried, and will continue to try to make the best product available on the market, and we hope to continue to serve you (the Gencoupe community) as best we can.

Happy Tuning.

Adam
Sales and Technical Support
Haltech USA
Adam@Haltech.com

Bam.
Exactly what I've been telling people.
Also the reason why my fans are actually doing their job.

This post should be framed and hung in it's own thread with the title "BEFORE COMPLAINING ABOUT YOUR OVERHEATING HALTECH, READ THIS"