No blow job yet, but I do plan to stroke her someday.

 

i loled

 

http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/28096-td-04-upgrade-3.html#post230768 at least 4 people have

 

4 hey? Make that number 5... oh and its Bone stock, zero modifications

 

sorry to hear what's your build date?

 

what's your build date?

:dunno:

 

Im taking it to the deaLer in the morning... but that just ruins my week

 

that sucks. At least you are under warranty.

Where you WOT? do you remember what rpm you were at? What broke, a rod?

 

I was on the highway 6th gear doing 130 cruising until a jackass decided to slow down, i had to down gear like crazy to 80. Yeah its a rod... all i hear is a rattilng. Took it over to my friends to verify it. Not a fun drive...

 

Yeah... That'd do it. At that speed a downshift to any gear would spell disaster. :/ you'd think the transmission would take the blunt if that ? I guess the transmission could take more punishment then we thought.

 

he is canadian.. 130kph = 80mph and 80kpm = 50mph. So 5th or 4th gear is more than fine. Even 3rd gear probably would have been fine. It all keeps pointing to faulty rods.

 

no... not yet. but when I got my car tuned... it blew my mind!

 

I seriously hope it's a build date thing with these rods.

 

Keep praying

 

me too... unless im within that build date haha

 

Good point I'm may13, 2009 you?

 

I already had my car when yours was built...if there's a rod problem, I';; have it...:hello:

Jay

 

Don't feel too bad Subaru had to recall an entire year and seize sale of cars because they were blowing engines.

Ferraris sometimes have fatal defaults because a bolt or two wasn't installed.

New M3 blow through axles, on normal DD conditions
If you broke a rod you wouldn't be driving around, if you tried the engine would seize from bits of metal everywhere.

They used powdered steel for the rods and pistons. Perfect world it's the best stuff to make anything out of. The reality is that usually it's contaminated in powder form and probably half the engines in existence will suffer.

If you really did blow your engine post your hp and production date. (it's located inside of the driver door jam)
please no jerks who want to lie about even owning a GC

 

This may not be a older or newer rod problem. It may be just a certain batch of material they reicieved to produce the rods was non-conforming.

I make medical parts and I have to log where every piece of material I'm making comes from and have material certificates as well. The properties of the metal that were used on certain build dates may be the problem. It may only span a month or so.

Either way if these things keep popping in stock form there may be some kind of mass re-call.

Something doesn't sound right, if you snapped a rod I seriously doubt that you would have been able to drive to your friends house. That's what you did if I'm understanding you correctly.

 

I've been saying this for a while now, it's the type of material used and the process used to make the rods/pistons. I'm glad to see that people are finally realizing the truth, although it does suck.

 

Wellllll i just took it to the dealership... iot just so happens i met the shop manager and the owner... the owner was outside when he heard the car start up, he's pretty curious

 

When you downshifted, did you heel-toe (rev-match) or just clutch in/out? If you didn't rev-match, there's a chance you over revved the engine on downshift. The car's computer would be able to tell you that. Throwing a rod takes serious strength. Now, we all know the construction is not the greatest on the current engine rods, that's to keep the costs down, but a normal downshift, even a quick one, shouldn't be breaking rods.

I've seen engines throw rods before, and you would not be able to drive it. The engine crank would seize up or window the block if you split it hard enough. If the car is driveable, it's more likely a spun bearing or rod knock. Both are usually caused by a lack of oil pressure or over revving. Keep us updated. I'm interested to see what the dealer says.

 

Oh important piece of info i forgot to tell you... i picked it up in July, and i have 12 846 kms on it

 

what does the build date say on the door jam?

July? that doesn't sound too good for my case

 

If he picked it up in July I would bet his build date is no later than May of 09.

Either way, bummer

I'm also doubtful it's a snapped rod, since he probably would have punched a hole in the block since it was at high rpm. I'm leaning with the spun bearing comment myself.

 

For what little information we have to go on. It may be something drive-line related?

 

Im not buying the faulty rod. nor build date

If it was a build date issue and hyundai knowingly switched to another composite..because they know that the original material isnt very strong..they they could have set themselves up for a really big potential lawsuit.

If it was a faulty rod issue..then in Beyond redline case the rod would have exited the block with some sort of physical damage (bends, tweaks, Cracks..etc)..the rod escaped their car with no sort of extreme physical damage (the rod came out in the same exact shape & form that it was cast into; no bend, chips or missing pieces...virtually unscathed)


Something goes wrong and the first thing ppl point to is the rods.


Nefairyous, If you blew a rod...your car would not start up under any circumstance..Period.

What 4 people blew their engines?

the only two i know are

Beyond Redline
Hardmack

unless you wanna throw in the one where the engine blew because, the dealership didnt tighten the oil drain bolt...thus running the engine dry.

other than that im not seeing four...unless someone else wants to chime in and inform us of the others

 

If it was a faulty rod issue..then in Beyond redline case the rod would have exited the block with some sort of physical damage (bends, tweaks, Cracks..etc)..the rod escaped their car with no sort of extreme physical damage (the rod came out in the same exact shape & form that it was cast into; no bend, chips or missing pieces...virtually unscathed)

Did we ever hear anything else about BR's engine? Their press release wasn't terribly informative from what I remember. All I've really read about it has been speculation and BR claiming that "it wasn't the tune". Of course, I haven't really seen any good evidence for what happened, so who really knows?

 

You guys realize hes talking km/h not mph. i would say 130kmh is about what, 70-80?

not exactly high speed/high rpm

 

Yep we know it wasn't "high speed" but high RPM is probable depending on what gear he down shifted to.

he is canadian.. 130kph = 80mph and 80kpm = 50mph. So 5th or 4th gear is more than fine. Even 3rd gear probably would have been fine. It all keeps pointing to faulty rods.

 

Even if he went from 6th to 3rd he wouldn't push the revs past ~6500-6700 if the speed would stay constant, but after he started downshifting, the actual speed of the car would (normally) go down accordingly, thus bringing the overall RPMs down also. This IMHO is not extreme conditions, uncommon yes.

I'll wait and see the results.:squint:

 

,,,

I'll wait and see the results.:squint:

Ditto, same with Hardmacks issue.

We still need to know build date of his car too.

It's possible that Hyundai had a slacker working for a few weeks, had a bad batch of parts, etc... Although if any more 2.0Ts crap out below 270whp, or at stock levels, I'm going to be pretty pi$$ed at Hyundai. Even a crappy single cam D series Honda can hold 300whp on stock internals.

 

nefairyous...your engine is not blown. If it was, you wouldnt be able to start it, let alone drive it to the dealer so the manager could listen to it.

 

Where do people get this info from? Do you mean it won't physically start? or the ECU won't let it start (much more likely)?

Because I know an engine with a blown rod, and a window in the block, and it was able to drive 15 mins on residual oil.