Here's the situation... Took all of my brakes off their lines because I was redoing my suspension, thought I'd repaint my breaks while I was at. Took the breaks off and had to leave them off the car for about 7 months while I went to college. Got back, finished the suspension and put the brakes back on and bleed them. Ran into problems the pedal still felt squishy and abnormal. Tried bleeding the brake master cylinder, and the brakes again, and brake master cylinder once again. The front driver side seems to work fine, the rear passenger works but is hard to move without the brake. Other than that the pistons won't come out of the caliper. Checked all bleeder values and no bubbles or air comes out. Seems to be a lack a pressure somewhere or trapped air that won't come out, in the abs system maybe? Any ideas?
BigMetalBird
1) Never bleed brakes with the engine running.
Remove the calipers and if the pistons don't move you will have great fun or a shop visit in your future.
If, or when the pistons are all moving bleed right rear, left rear right front, and left front in that order.
Be patient, there is a lot of plumbing to flush out.
Remove the calipers and if the pistons don't move you will have great fun or a shop visit in your future.
If, or when the pistons are all moving bleed right rear, left rear right front, and left front in that order.
Be patient, there is a lot of plumbing to flush out.
So you basically emptied the entire brake hydraulics? Invest in a motive pressure bleeder and have at it
The Brembos should be easy to bleed. Just opening the screw and let it bleed itself. You may have to put some thread sealant on the screw threads.
Brake fluid is some corrosive stuff.
It will eventually eat through petroleum based materials. So if don't use any inert type material, it's going to eventually be a gummy mess if you use a sealer.
Teflon/nylon tape is inert and used for plumbing... The thing is, the tape is NOT used to seal, it's used to allow more turns. Plumbing fittings are tapered, to allow slight friction welding or metal conformity to happen to seal the more you turn it.
99% of all hydraulic applications of metal fittings are tapered for this reason. Otherwise they would have just used rubber o-rings.
Also why the bleeder is usually made of brass. Some are made of steel allowing the caliper threads to conform to the fitting.
Plus how much is a bleeder fitting? a few buck?
It will eventually eat through petroleum based materials. So if don't use any inert type material, it's going to eventually be a gummy mess if you use a sealer.
Teflon/nylon tape is inert and used for plumbing... The thing is, the tape is NOT used to seal, it's used to allow more turns. Plumbing fittings are tapered, to allow slight friction welding or metal conformity to happen to seal the more you turn it.
99% of all hydraulic applications of metal fittings are tapered for this reason. Otherwise they would have just used rubber o-rings.
Also why the bleeder is usually made of brass. Some are made of steel allowing the caliper threads to conform to the fitting.
Plus how much is a bleeder fitting? a few buck?
I do use a teflon sealant. But again it never gets into the system, it's only on the exposed threads.
Buy or borrow a pressure bleeder. Or get a friend and two large syringes,(horse supply store), suck about half the fluid out of the master then fill the other syringe with brake fluid and and attach with clear tubing to the bleeder furthest from the master,(remove any air from the line before attaching) then push the fluid from the bottom up into the master, have your helper draw out the fluid from the master before it overflows, do this on all bleeders from furthest to closest to the master. Air wants to rise to the highest point. If there a trapped bubble somewhere that wont bleed out the bottom, push it out the top.
Another trick when bleeding is to use a rubber mallet and tap on the caliper to get the last few air bubbles to rise up and out. That's usually not necessary but sounds like in this case it is.
I believe that your abs module has air in it. That would require the use of a FST or what I like is the modis ultra. You have to get the air out of the system first by doing a service by test then you can manually bleed the calipers or with vacuum blenders. Also I'm on alldata and it says to bleed right rear first , left front second left rear third ,then right front last. I just bled all my brakes and clutch system last weekend due to my master cylinder going out. Not too bad work just tedious. Hope that helps.
My advice for bleeding clutches or brakes is invest in some speed bleeders. It’s a bleeder screw that has a built in check valve. You loosen the valves one by one in the order mentioned above and just pump the brake pedal always until no air comes out. Tighten it up and move on. I’ve never had it take me more than 10 min to bleed any car including my genesis with them. They come in pairs and you can get them at most parts stores. If memory serves me it’s an m10x1.0. But I would double check that to be sure.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
