[danperezsax]

Haha, Adam, you guys are a great company and the quality of your product and service speaks for itself. Thanks for staying on the ball with this.

 

[genjuice]

And were back, so I have brought the overheating issue to the attention of our engineers and we have been doing testing as I told you all about. Today I got a summary of the testing and results from our engineer who had the test car in arizona, I will copy and paste his email here:

After some analysis of the data we recorded from our vehicle in Arizona we can confirm that high underhood temps are certainly a cause for throttle failure. What we measured was when underhood air temperatures approach 120C the air temp inside the ECU case is approaching 130C and the surface temperature of the throttle control chip is reaching 140C at this temperature the chip begins to fail to open the throttle and a change in APP will yield no corresponding change in throttle blade movement. Typically the throttle will get stuck at about 6% opening and go no further.

Once the surface temp of the throttle chip drops below 125C it operates reliably again, consistently until it gets back up to the mid to high 130’s where it fails again.

We were able to induce underhood temps of this nature with the engine idling for long periods (if the car had been driven on the highway for an hour or so and then just let idle on the black top in 40C ambient temps it took about 25 mins if idle to reach these failure temps.

Given the issue here is ambient underhood temps, heatsinking or putting fans on the ECU itself will have little effect as the heat is not being generated in the ECU, but in the engine compartment. Turbo blankets and exhaust heatshields should have a positive effect in lowering the engine bay temps and therefore helping the issue.

Given that automotive grade electronics components are only rated to 125C even if the throttle continued to work at these sorts of ambient temperatures something else would soon enough be failing. Something else that may be worth looking at is the ignition timing values people are using at idle, advancing the timing a couple of degrees will have reduce exhaust gas temperature thereby reducing underhood temps as well as will exhaust cam timing and EGR (exhaust cam timing essentially acts as EGR at idle anyways).


I hope that this is more informative than my "we beat the crap out of our test car in AZ for hours" post.

Yup, I set my zero throttle timing @15 degrees, I must also say, You need to make sure all your corrections are correct out to 100 degrees coolant, those extra few degrees from 85 to say 91 coolant if those higher cells are not set
properly will have drivabilty issues.

 

[ElDominio]

And were back, so I have brought the overheating issue to the attention of our engineers and we have been doing testing as I told you all about. Today I got a summary of the testing and results from our engineer who had the test car in arizona, I will copy and paste his email here:

After some analysis of the data we recorded from our vehicle in Arizona we can confirm that high underhood temps are certainly a cause for throttle failure. What we measured was when underhood air temperatures approach 120C the air temp inside the ECU case is approaching 130C and the surface temperature of the throttle control chip is reaching 140C at this temperature the chip begins to fail to open the throttle and a change in APP will yield no corresponding change in throttle blade movement. Typically the throttle will get stuck at about 6% opening and go no further.

Once the surface temp of the throttle chip drops below 125C it operates reliably again, consistently until it gets back up to the mid to high 130’s where it fails again.

We were able to induce underhood temps of this nature with the engine idling for long periods (if the car had been driven on the highway for an hour or so and then just let idle on the black top in 40C ambient temps it took about 25 mins if idle to reach these failure temps.

Given the issue here is ambient underhood temps, heatsinking or putting fans on the ECU itself will have little effect as the heat is not being generated in the ECU, but in the engine compartment. Turbo blankets and exhaust heatshields should have a positive effect in lowering the engine bay temps and therefore helping the issue.

Given that automotive grade electronics components are only rated to 125C even if the throttle continued to work at these sorts of ambient temperatures something else would soon enough be failing. Something else that may be worth looking at is the ignition timing values people are using at idle, advancing the timing a couple of degrees will have reduce exhaust gas temperature thereby reducing underhood temps as well as will exhaust cam timing and EGR (exhaust cam timing essentially acts as EGR at idle anyways).


I hope that this is more informative than my "we beat the crap out of our test car in AZ for hours" post.

This is very good info, thanks

Honestly, when I get my ECU back from you guys (still haven't shipped it out), I'll still put a fan on it, since I'mm pretty sure its a combination of both (the board itself could use some more heatsinking but that's besides the point).

I'm pretty sure than combining a small internal fan along with a reduction of underhood temps will be very good.

Personally, as a "meanwhile" solution, one of my clients has his THermofan 2 (high RPM mode) activating at 178F CTS, and its one of the most stable cars.
I'll get back with any more info.

 

[curtisb]

Not sure. But that discharge was like something was over pressured for sure. However, I had no issues whatsoever before using the haltech. The thing I noticed is: if I'm driving the airco will blow cold air. When I'm idling, it will become warmer/hot. And I still have idle control issues with the A/C on. A bit of hunting. I wonder if it is still the ventilator coming on or not...

my car does the same thing still

 

[curtisb]

I meant when the car is not moving just idling and if I try to rev it applying throttle too quickly the rpm will drop first and then go up


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sounds like the tb and stuff needs looked over maybe try recal it

 

[ElDominio]

Not sure. But that discharge was like something was over pressured for sure. However, I had no issues whatsoever before using the haltech. The thing I noticed is: if I'm driving the airco will blow cold air. When I'm idling, it will become warmer/hot. And I still have idle control issues with the A/C on. A bit of hunting. I wonder if it is still the ventilator coming on or not...

Idle control issues and A/C blowing hot air on idle are tuning issues. Your tuner needs to set the correct On/Off/Activation pressure for the A/C to work correctly on idle, then tune the idle A/C start offset for the sudden changes in load (and the zero throttle timing)

 

[danperezsax]

How do you know the correct on/off/activation pressure?

 

[ElDominio]

How do you know the correct on/off/activation pressure?

Trial and error I suppose
I already shared that info with a local tuner and got no credit.... Sorry man

 

[ragchaos]

Trial and error I suppose
I already shared that info with a local tuner and got no credit.... Sorry man

While it does suck not receiving credit for the things that you figured out, why not share it on the forums, anyone googling this info will see that YOU were the one who figured out this A/C issue. Is that not why we are all here for is to share info and contribute to this community. I am not saying give us straight up answers, I for one am not about spoon feeding but and least give us a strong standing point.

 

[curtisb]

O dout you drive your car as hard as i drive mine ..but altho its not my dd anymore i do put few hundred on the car in about 4 days

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[HaltechAdam]

Launch Control

And the moment a lot of you have been waiting for! Here is what we have found regarding setting up a launch control switch.

I have not yet confirmed, but we suspect that the Non cruise control Genesis cars should have the wiring for cruise control in the harness, just unused connectors hanging out.

The Hyundai Genesis has 2 clutch switches, one is used by the cruise control system to disengage cruise control if the clutch is depressed the other is used to disengage the start signal if the clutch is not depressed (is the car will not crank over if the clutch is not depressed). If the vehicle however is not fitted with the cruise control feature it may not have the second clutch engagement switch (only this switch actually goes back to the ECU – the starter interrupt signal does not go to the ECU).

These two switches are located on opposite sides of the clutch pedal mechanism in the drivers footwell and can be easily accessed by simply looking up under the dash on the drivers side. The clutch switch that is mounted on the firewall (floor) is the starter disengagement switch (green circle in the attached picture).

With the clutch disengaged you will notice there is a black bracket with a hole drilled into it that sits just above a tab on the clutch pedal arm, this is where the cruise control clutch engagement switch mounts (circled in red above (with the cruise control switch in place)). Even if the vehicle is not equipped with cruise control it is likely that the wiring will still be in the harness, so look for the while two pin connector that comes ties into the same branch of wiring harness that the starter disengagement clutch switch is on.

Adding the upper clutch engagement switch will allow non-cruise control vehicles to use this switch for launch control etc. This is the $20, 5 minute solution.

It is actually quite east to splice into the existing floor mounted clutch switch as the upper switch’s pins are just flat spade terminals. So make up two 6 inch wires with flat male spade terminals on them and splice one into the grey starter disengagement wire and connect it to the black cruise control switch connector (just insert the spade terminal into the connector). Splice the other into the white wire on the starter disengagement switch and connect it up to the green wire on the cruise control switch connector. This is the $2, 10 minute solution.

If you guys want a walk through on how to enable launch control, I will be happy to make another post with screen shots showing how to do it.

 

[danperezsax]

O dout you drive your car as hard as i drive mine ..but altho its not my dd anymore i do put few hundred on the car in about 4 days

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LOL you might be surprised how hard I drive this ****er. The point is not that I'm driving it hard, though, but that the type of daily driving is particularly hard on it in terms of heat soak. Cruising for an hour and then sitting in stop-and-go traffic for an hour, etc. That kind of thing builds up heat in the engine bay very quickly, which is what's happening here.

I actually have never had a problem when I'm going for a "spirited" drive, where I'm likely to be between 0% and WOT for 20 minutes at a time through some twisties. I only get the heat soak issues during regular, daily driving, New York City style traffic.

 

[curtisb]

LOL you might be surprised how hard I drive this ****er. The point is not that I'm driving it hard, though, but that the type of daily driving is particularly hard on it in terms of heat soak. Cruising for an hour and then sitting in stop-and-go traffic for an hour, etc. That kind of thing builds up heat in the engine bay very quickly, which is what's happening here.

I actually have never had a problem when I'm going for a "spirited" drive, where I'm likely to be between 0% and WOT for 20 minutes at a time through some twisties. I only get the heat soak issues during regular, daily driving, New York City style traffic.

i ws in ocean city md few weeks ago for five days i drove the car non stop for 18 hrs for 4 days no issuses just crusingg around an going wot sometimes, but im not hear to brage and say ths and that it just not making sense to me on why this is happing

 

[curtisb]

And the moment a lot of you have been waiting for! Here is what we have found regarding setting up a launch control switch.

I have not yet confirmed, but we suspect that the Non cruise control Genesis cars should have the wiring for cruise control in the harness, just unused connectors hanging out.

The Hyundai Genesis has 2 clutch switches, one is used by the cruise control system to disengage cruise control if the clutch is depressed the other is used to disengage the start signal if the clutch is not depressed (is the car will not crank over if the clutch is not depressed). If the vehicle however is not fitted with the cruise control feature it may not have the second clutch engagement switch (only this switch actually goes back to the ECU – the starter interrupt signal does not go to the ECU).

These two switches are located on opposite sides of the clutch pedal mechanism in the drivers footwell and can be easily accessed by simply looking up under the dash on the drivers side. The clutch switch that is mounted on the firewall (floor) is the starter disengagement switch (green circle in the attached picture).

With the clutch disengaged you will notice there is a black bracket with a hole drilled into it that sits just above a tab on the clutch pedal arm, this is where the cruise control clutch engagement switch mounts (circled in red above (with the cruise control switch in place)). Even if the vehicle is not equipped with cruise control it is likely that the wiring will still be in the harness, so look for the while two pin connector that comes ties into the same branch of wiring harness that the starter disengagement clutch switch is on.

Adding the upper clutch engagement switch will allow non-cruise control vehicles to use this switch for launch control etc. This is the $20, 5 minute solution.

It is actually quite east to splice into the existing floor mounted clutch switch as the upper switch’s pins are just flat spade terminals. So make up two 6 inch wires with flat male spade terminals on them and splice one into the grey starter disengagement wire and connect it to the black cruise control switch connector (just insert the spade terminal into the connector). Splice the other into the white wire on the starter disengagement switch and connect it up to the green wire on the cruise control switch connector. This is the $2, 10 minute solution.

If you guys want a walk through on how to enable launch control, I will be happy to make another post with screen shots showing how to do it.

my anti lag works with out doeing any of this and im a r spec :dunno::dunno::dunno:

 

[danperezsax]

Curtis, it's not how far you're going or how fast, it's the fact that I'm going for a long enough time to warm up the motor real good and then pretty much just sitting still with an occasional load on the motor but no airflow that's causing the temps to spike. The stop and go traffic does it. My car will cruise all day long with no problem at all! It's only sitting in rush hour that's making it overheat.

 

[Paps511]

2 things,

1. My idle won't go below about 1300. I know it is set to 900, higher than stock 750, but it will never go there. it seems to sit at 1300. This is after the car has warmed up and been driven. I actually drove ~30 miles, and it still would not go lower.

2. maybe connected. Often when i am at a light idling, it will oscillate between 1300 and 1700. Just go back and forth between them. do you think this is a fuel issue, or timing, or cooling, no idea...

LMK

 

[danperezsax]

That sounds like the idle surge I'm getting when it gets too hot. Does it stop surging if you tap the throttle?

 

[bradley_it]

Mine also does it too

 

[j8082007]

That sounds like the idle surge I'm getting when it gets too hot. Does it stop surging if you tap the throttle?

My car does this sometimes? Any solution to this?

 

[curtisb]

Curtis, it's not how far you're going or how fast, it's the fact that I'm going for a long enough time to warm up the motor real good and then pretty much just sitting still with an occasional load on the motor but no airflow that's causing the temps to spike. The stop and go traffic does it. My car will cruise all day long with no problem at all! It's only sitting in rush hour that's making it overheat.

have you ever been in ocean city md when a car show is going on lol? its 10 times wores then rush hr trafice.im just say thats all