[coupster]

anyone know how many watts the non prem amp is putting to each speaker?

i bet it peaks at 50 - 100 watts

Can someone with audio knowledge chime in and edumacate us? haha

 

[kingtj]

blown factory amp?

Actually, is this really true? I was always under the impression that connecting up a speaker or speakers to an amp that require more wattage than the amp can deliver simply means the speakers will sound way too quiet, or not put out sound at all? I didn't think it was possible to "blow" an amp this way. (As far as I'm aware, blown amps are usually caused by overheating them due to poor mounting locations, or from dead short circuits in the wiring someplace?)

I understand that the coupe comes with a factory amp. but can it push 500 watts RMS? I dont think so... If he has the Rockford Fosgate P3L series, this thing pushes 100-500 RMS and peaks at 1000 watts. So you're telling me a factory pre-amp will suffice? If he goes the route you're advising, he'll blow his factory amp.

I'm too lazy to search how much the factory amp can hold but i'm sure it's weak.

 

[AKGC]

I understand that the coupe comes with a factory amp. but can it push 500 watts RMS? I dont think so... If he has the Rockford Fosgate P3L series, this thing pushes 100-500 RMS and peaks at 1000 watts. So you're telling me a factory pre-amp will suffice? If he goes the route you're advising, he'll blow his factory amp.

I'm too lazy to search how much the factory amp can hold but i'm sure it's weak.

Still not getting me.

How are you going to blow the factory amp if:
1. still using the factory head unit.
2. running the added amp with its own power signal.
3. If he's running a aftermarket head unit, why would he want to run the factory amp?

None of the speakers will work if you just simply remove the factory amp and keep the factory head unit, unless you bridge the 2 connectors together from the amp. Even then the volume will be diminished dramatically.

An amp has one main purpose, to AMPLIFY a signal. You GET the SIGNAL from the FACTORY AMP.

Hyundai instead of having the MOSFETS and corresponding circuits located in the head unit, they put it elsewhere. Think of the factory amp and head unit as ONE UNIT.

 

[cansp6]

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you want to replace the sub that came with the base radio, you're going to need to pony up some cash. First off, I don't think the base stereo even has a subwoofer. If this is true, then the base head unit might not even have subwoofer pre-outs. If you ain't got no pre-outs, then you're going to need a new head unit or a way to convert the existing signal intended to be used for a speaker into a signal to send to the sub amp. Yeah, you can use a line converter, but unless that feeds into a low-pass filter, you're going to be using the sub to reproduce a full range signal well above what it's rated for. Oh, and this is of course assuming that the head unit doesn't roll off the speaker out above 120hz. So basically, you're going to be using the sub to play 120hz - 20khz signals. This is well outside it's operational range and it's going to sound like crap.

Oh, and you're definitely going to need a sub amp. Trying to run a 12" p3 on a stock amp intended to be used with 4" 24w RMS speakers is a major fail.

So, um, what's your budget.

 

[AKGC]

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you want to replace the sub that came with the base radio, you're going to need to pony up some cash. First off, I don't think the base stereo even has a subwoofer. If this is true, then the base head unit might not even have subwoofer pre-outs. If you ain't got no pre-outs, then you're going to need a new head unit or a way to convert the existing signal intended to be used for a speaker into a signal to send to the sub amp. Yeah, you can use a line converter, but unless that feeds into a low-pass filter, you're going to be using the sub to reproduce a full range signal well above what it's rated for. Oh, and this is of course assuming that the head unit doesn't roll off the speaker out above 120hz. So basically, you're going to be using the sub to play 120hz - 20khz signals. This is well outside it's operational range and it's going to sound like crap.

Oh, and you're definitely going to need a sub amp. Trying to run a 12" p3 on a stock amp intended to be used with 4" 24w RMS speakers is a major fail.

So, um, what's your budget.

Um. Am I going to have to walk people through this?!?!?!?! It was posted on the previous page.

^ that is the BASE MODEL AMP

This is the factory JBL/infinity amp

 

[1990tsi]

This thread hurts my head. I wish one of the other audio guys got ot this before I did.

Base model has no external amp. It's built into the head unit.
It's not very much power, probably 10-15w RMS x 4. It has 4 outputs, 2 front 2 rear. That's it. No sub, no centre channel. It also has no amp in the rear as the photo shows above.



To make it simple, you need an amp with speaker level inputs, or a LOC (line out convertor) as explained already, it lets you run RCAs from behind your stock radio (if this doesn't make sense just take your car to a shop and pay someone to install for you)
That's it, amp, sub, box and possibly an LOC if your amp doesn't have speaker level inputs

before the arguments come in, Right now I'm running a 4 channel amp from my FR and FL speaker leads (speaker level input on amp) to a set of components up front and a sub.

If you want to run a sub in a base GC it's very simple.

 

[cansp6]

Do you even understand what that picture shows? Connector A is the "in" side and connector B is the "out" side. So there are no sub outputs on the base stereo.

 

[everlost]

so, if i had a factory infinity head unit with external amp, is the signal between the HU and Amp line level or speaker level?

also connector "A" and "B" are not "in" and "out". notice connector A pin 7 and pin 10.

 

[hydroponik]

Bottom line is, you're not going to run that speaker off the base or premium amp that comes with the car. They are made specifically for the speakers that come with the car, and most likely at different impedance than what most subs would play at.

If you want to run a sub(s) with the stock system, you're going to need a separate amp and LOC as others have stated.

 

[cansp6]

so, if i had a factory infinity head unit with external amp, is the signal between the HU and Amp line level or speaker level?

also connector "A" and "B" are not "in" and "out". notice connector A pin 7 and pin 10.

Line level, -10db at 0.316v RMS. And I don't follow on your last point. :dunno:

 

[adam5001]

I'm trying to do the same thing as the initial question implied only with an 8'' sub in the factory hole. But the part that is really confusing me is how to get the signal into the amp...

I'm gonna purchase an amp with speaker level inputs and I understand all the grounding and running the power cord too it and such. But what i'm clueless about is where to hook it up to the system? People keep telling me I can tap the other speaker wires or somehow get it straight into the head unit.. What's the best way to do this?

 

[jy_p]

Replacing the original sub...

Does anyone tried to change the original sub? I would like to know how to remove the plastique sub cover without breaking it!

 

[power]

Does anyone tried to change the original sub? I would like to know how to remove the plastique sub cover without breaking it!

Take a look Here

 

[jy_p]

Thanks power!

 

[Tufast]

is 250w enough to push one 12?

No, not the 12 you have, unless it is one sick amp or can be bridged to at least 1 ohm (i.e early gen Punch or Orion HCCA250).

I have the 10" version of the same speaker (P3) & can tell you it takes alot of juice for this thing to perform properly. I'm going to be runing a Punch 500a2 bridged to a 2 ohm load for this DVC.

Okay so I am confused, can I put a sub in without an amp?

You will need an aftermarket amp to push this sub.

the best route IMO is, buy a LOC (line out converter) to run your aftermarket amp and subs to your factory HU.

You can do this & this will be the cheapest/easiest method, but with that 12" sub you are running, the factory components won't be able to keep up. I replaced the OEM base model HU in my R-Spec with an Alpine high output receiver that is rated at 50w x4 which you can clearly see an amp mounted to the back of. The sound was then twice as clear & I was able to turn the volume up twice as loud with no distortion using the OEM crappy speakers. Imagine putting in some decent low wattage Punch (or other) seperates in there would do.

This thread hurts my head. I wish one of the other audio guys got ot this before I did.

Base model has no external amp. It's built into the head unit.
It's not very much power, probably 10-15w RMS x 4. It has 4 outputs, 2 front 2 rear. That's it. No sub, no centre channel. It also has no amp in the rear as the photo shows above.

To make it simple, you need an amp with speaker level inputs, or a LOC (line out convertor) as explained already, it lets you run RCAs from behind your stock radio (if this doesn't make sense just take your car to a shop and pay someone to install for you)
That's it, amp, sub, box and possibly an LOC if your amp doesn't have speaker level inputs

before the arguments come in, Right now I'm running a 4 channel amp from my FR and FL speaker leads (speaker level input on amp) to a set of components up front and a sub.

If you want to run a sub in a base GC it's very simple.

+1 on head hurting, this ^^^^^^ No external amp in base model/R-spec, OEM HU is weak sauce, can use LOC to run external amp off of rear speakers, aftermarket HU will be worlds better & gives you the advantage of RCAs for connections.

 

[reneirwolf878]

From my understanding with the premium audio you have to tap in post amp or else the headunit will cut or add bass and treble depending on volume level.

I kept the stock HU and used an amp that takes speaker level inputs. No LOCS to worry about. Tapped in right being the HU, power 2 front door spears and a single 10".

 

[Snoopy0812]

anyone know how many watts the non prem amp is putting to each speaker?

a NON-Infinity System has the amp IN the headunit. It puts out 43watts per channel to 4 channels @ 4ohms. The front tweaters are powered off the front speakers line.

There is no external amp in a BASE or R-Spec Coupe.

To get a CLEAN signal to power an extra subwoofer in an Infinity based system you have to tap in POST amp, ie; from the connector that goes to the ORIGINAL deck mounted subwoofer.

By clean I mean a properly uncompressed and DSP'd sound that a speaker would ACTUALLY play.

Pre-Infinity/JBL amp in the Infinity system is just a signal wire that is partially or completely compressed (depending on source) and not yet processed by the DSP in the Infinity/JBL amp.

Base and R-Spec coupes: Source (XM, CD, Radio) -> Headunit -> Speakers
Infinity/JBL equiped coupes: Source (XM, CD, Radio) -> Headunit -> Amp (DSP) -> Amp (output) -> Speakers


*edit:did not realise how old this thread is......

 

[nobb]

To get a CLEAN signal to power an extra subwoofer in an Infinity based system you have to tap in POST amp, ie; from the connector that goes to the ORIGINAL deck mounted subwoofer.

By clean I mean a properly uncompressed and DSP'd sound that a speaker would ACTUALLY play.

Pre-Infinity/JBL amp in the Infinity system is just a signal wire that is partially or completely compressed (depending on source) and not yet processed by the DSP in the Infinity/JBL amp.

Base and R-Spec coupes: Source (XM, CD, Radio) -> Headunit -> Speakers
Infinity/JBL equiped coupes: Source (XM, CD, Radio) -> Headunit -> Amp (DSP) -> Amp (output) -> Speakers


*edit:did not realise how old this thread is......

Sorry to bump an old thread again, but I wanted to get clarification on how to wire up a sub to the Infinity system.

Has anyone wired the speaker level outputs (pin 12, 13, 25, 26) from the stock sub directly to an aftermarket amp + sub with positive results? Is this really a "clean" signal? Just from listening to the stock Infinity system, it appears that there already is some sort of signal processing going on. For example, you'll notice that the bass intensity is reduced at high levels and that anything below 40hz will roll off significantly. This does not seem to be a characteristic of the speaker itself because in these situations, what will physically happen is you start hearing distortion (if there was no signal processing).

Basically, my concern is that if you wire an aftermarket amp + sub using the stock sub output, your bass will roll off and not match the capabilities of the aftermarket equipment.

 

[rips2.0t]

lol this might be way late, but does the R-spec have an AMP? I doubt it

 

[Kolk1]

Only infinity systems have an external amp.