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Advenio Pariter
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My engine does not burn any appreciable amount during the duration of my oil changes (4k miles).
 

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What I previously thought was oil burn turned out to be a leaking drain plug that was slight enough to not drip on the ground with the splash guards kept off. No oil burn detected ever since the fix. No tiny pieces of metal in the pan as previously found either. Latest UOA showed good stats too so all is well so far.
 

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I've been changing my oil every 8k sometimes earlier, I'm using Royal Purple 5W20 and i've noticed the level is low to almost on the First Dot on the dipstick. i don't have any leaks but i've also noticed that when i remove the Oil cap there is a bit of milky oil around the cap. I have a 2010 3.8 Gt with 126K Anyone having the same issues?
 

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Bill
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hopefully just condensation. if it were the head you'd see way worse than that.
going on 9 years old? some leakage or burning might be expected.
 

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Advenio Pariter
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Milky oil suggests water in the oil. Are you making short trips? How does the coolant look? Any oil in it? I have over 110k miles on a 2.0T and I do not use any significant oil between oil changes. It sits on the full mark.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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I'm at +95k miles and my engine does not burn any oil at all. In fact due to fuel dilution it makes oil....
 

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Mine started burning oil recently. Almost half a quart during 5k miles. I'm near 105k miles now. UOA shows everything is normal other than a little higher iron lately but not an alarming amount since Blackstone said it's common with these 3.8 engines for reasons unknown to them. They did say they weren't familiar with oil burn being common with these engines though but that is not a uncommon issue with higher mile engines in general. Will keep a close eye on it to see if it burns more and if iron amount goes higher in future UOA.

Btw I use Mobile 1 5w30 full synth with oem filters.
 

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My 2015 gen 3.8 coupe burns about 3 quarts per oil change at 5000km religiously. Been doing so since I bought from the dealership.... Dealership says its normal base on how the engine is engineered to get its power. Their recommendations are to use fuel injection cleaners and use premium gas to minimize this known and common issue with this vehicle.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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My 2015 gen 3.8 coupe burns about 3 quarts per oil change at 5000km religiously. Been doing so since I bought from the dealership.... Dealership says its normal base on how the engine is engineered to get its power. Their recommendations are to use fuel injection cleaners and use premium gas to minimize this known and common issue with this vehicle.
Your dealer is an idiot. It should not be burning that much oil. Burning oil cuts performance.
 

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Premium Member
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My 2015 gen 3.8 coupe burns about 3 quarts per oil change at 5000km religiously. Been doing so since I bought from the dealership.... Dealership says its normal base on how the engine is engineered to get its power. Their recommendations are to use fuel injection cleaners and use premium gas to minimize this known and common issue with this vehicle.
Some oil will bake onto the intake valves, as the BK2 3.8 is direct injected... but 3 quarts?

NO automotive engine should be burning at most a 1 quart of oil after 3000 miles.
3 quarts is over half the oil capacity on a bk2 3.8.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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Generally the warranty level for oil burning is 1 qt per 1000 miles. Anything above that they consider excessive.
 

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Mine didn't burn any oil at all for years, then it started burning oil and it wasn't long until it ceased. Got a replacement engine that already burned 2qts per 5k miles so I figure it's just a matter of when the bearings cease. Seems to be a common issue with these engines. I just try to keep it topped off with a few ounces above the full line.
 

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Mine didn't burn any oil at all for years, then it started burning oil and it wasn't long until it ceased. Got a replacement engine that already burned 2qts per 5k miles so I figure it's just a matter of when the bearings cease. Seems to be a common issue with these engines. I just try to keep it topped off with a few ounces above the full line.
Not the bearings. burning oil would be an issue of the piston rings and/or valve seals.
Those are the only areas where oil can get into the chambers... if it's not a failing head gasket.

lower levels could also be an issue of an oil leak elsewhere.

EDIT: also could be just a PVC valve failing, letting oil enter the intake
 

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Got my 3.8 NA in 2017 19K used. It used NO oil.
-Boosted the engine 6 months later. It used NO oil.
-Massively augmented the boosted/fueling. Uses NO oil.
-32K on the big tune, big fuel, drive like a big arse-hole. Car uses NO oil.

**Then again, I CERMA treated, CERMA oil, Nano treated bearings. So I will never have start-up wear like everybody else.

PS he's right about the PCV valve, your supposed to change them every 15K or so.
If you do have a catch can on the PCV side it should'nt really produce much. I'm boosted and mine makes about an inch deep in 3K. (Empty it at my oil changes).
 

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Not the bearings. burning oil would be an issue of the piston rings and/or valve seals.
Those are the only areas where oil can get into the chambers... if it's not a failing head gasket.

lower levels could also be an issue of an oil leak elsewhere.

EDIT: also could be just a PVC valve failing, letting oil enter the intake
Right but the bearings cease regardless. I'd like to know why on a steady diet of Mobil 1 as that shouldn't happen so is a design flaw I suspect as I've read the older coupes suffer that issue also. No oil leak or inside the intake at least.
 

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Mobil-1 is not one of the better oils, despite what one might think. There are many varieties of it. The truly superior Mobile -1 is the high saps euro version. (Made for Porsches, BMW's, and Audi's).

Up until recently the versions sold in auto parts chains were of the cracked mineral oil crap culprits. In my VT days several guys on my forum burned up turbos on that junk. ( And it was some Hyundai dealers that were using it on these failure cars).

Current oil in general doesn't do non ferrous bearings any favors. Retail oils are made to manufacturer specs, and then political requirements. (Which definitely don't do cars any favors). All of the new specs that oils like Penzoil Platnium and such were an industry response to severe restrictions imposed on them by 8 years of the Obama administration/EPA.
In those years all the add packs and chems that the industry used with good effect were outlawed. A perfect example of this was the old vaunted Royal Purple, which turned to crap overnight. They could find no replacement for their now illegal additives.
Trends in engineering smaller oil guides require extremely light oils that really can't provide the protection that heavier viscosity oils once did.. But God help you if you think you are going to just put in a heavier oil. Say problems !

Lots of cold start wear, short trips where the oil doesnt get nice and hot are the leading cause/majority of wear in any engine. So driving habits can play a part in excessive wear on bearings. Hotter climates, longer trips produce less wear over time on bearings.

**It is not a common issue for these 3.8's. There's plenty of dudes on here with serious mileage on their BK2 3.8's and they say nothing about excessive oil consumption.
****You are right about the once it starts,...it surely doesn't get better
 

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I've read that about the euro oil on bitog too. Good info there thanks. I hear you. Maybe saying it this way would have been more succinct that it's not uncommon to hear about it. A mechanic at the dealer had one like mine and loved it but sold it once his bearings ceased and he's seen how others have had the same issue. Whether that's seeing online or seeing first hand in person at the dealer I don't know. He had the usual mods, headers, SFR tune ect making around 450hp he said. He still loves the cars but I don't know his driving habits, however I don't rag my cars out and keep better maintenance records than anyone I know.

From my research I've seen a lot of people say the best US oil is Amzoil which I haven't tried yet. Won't stop a mechanical issue I know but maybe would prolong the engine better than Mobil 1. I've use a couple bottles of Engine Restore but that's it and it did appear to improve the wear #s on the UOAs afterward. Any advice is appreciated.
 

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Brother mine is right at 600 on the crank. Use CERMA stuff, all of it. Never any cold start wear. Specific treatments for non ferrous. I see you have an 8AT. CERMA AT is made of your 8 AT.

Cerma STM-3 Long Lasting Motor Oil | Diesel and Gasoline Engine Oil – Cermastore.com enjoy reading. Its 100 % for real. American inventor. I ve been using this stuff for 12 years. Since I bought my Gen in 2017, and turbo built her shes been on it. All of it. Nano is why I won't spin a bearing, and why it wont do as you are mentioning. 32K on the super build.

This stuff cant reverse old damage, but it will slow it better than any of the above.
 

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I did the AT as soon as I got it at 19K. Will replace all the CERMA AT at 64K.
-Did the differential when purchased. Will redo at 80 K.
-Did the power steering system. Will redo at 80K.
-Use their CERMA coolant, its amazing. Will replace at 80 K.
-Change my oil at 3K, I have to, I run pure meth, cant risk methanol/blowby.
-Add small amounts of "Nano", treats the turbo bearings and the main bearings.
-Add pure STM3 ferment to my pure methanol. This treats the upper cylinder/rings as it is sprayed into the valve chambers.
 
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